1980 GS 750E starting/charging delema

[posplayr]

ddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddduh

[JTGS850GL]

This is becoming a very stupid argument. I'm out of here.

[Killer2600]

Sorry, I'm using various standard DoD and US Army definitions which I have reconciled into a uniform analytic framework for CBM+ CBA (i.e. it was my job to make recommendations to the US Army on how this is done). However this would seem to have little bearing with you nor bear any resemblance to your definitions. It is easy to see how there might be some disagreement.

Well this isn't the army and I don't have an army budget; but, I do see where the desire to waste my time and money originate.

[posplayr]

Well this isn't the army and I don't have an army budget; but, I do see where the desire to waste my time and money originate.

Since you think is all a was of time , I can certainly see how the most formal and insitutionalized set of maintainability metrics would also seem a waste of time to you. Bittersweet chocolate covered red licorice for all.

[jbird7262]

Let's keep in mind that this conversation started with a request for help from a new GSR member that IS having electrical issues.

Killer2600: Glad to hear that your bike is working perfect. Good for you. Now let's help the guy that needs it because he DOES HAVE ELECTRICAL ISSUES. Weather you have any issues now or in the future is irrelevant. Not all of our bikes have lived the same pampered life as yours.

Killer2600 is just voicing his opinion, no big deal, I'll get things squared away, redoing all the wiring from the battery +/-, and starter relay, and fuse block first.

[jbird7262]

Could it be one that I use quite often?

Ignorance is bliss, and boy, am I happy.




Well, he knows he is starting with a weak battery. What he might not realize is that he might be killing what's left of it by using a "trickle charger".

If it is a MANUAL "trickle charger", it will sit there and slowly cook that battery with 1-2 amps the entire time it is connected. It will not taper off as it reaches full charge.

Even if it's an AUTOMATIC "trickle charger", it can still cook the battery, but it will take longer. It may start at 1-2 amps and taper off to less than 1/2 amp, but it's still too much for a constant charge.

It is better to use a battery MAINTAINER that will actually turn off the charge and monitor voltage, coming back on when needed. "Battery Tender" is one brand name, but somewhat expensive. Schumacher makes one that is available at Wal-Mart for about $20. If you are one who will avoid Wal-Mart, you can get the same exact unit, wearing a Die Hard label at Sears for about $30.



By the way, Killer, one reason to test the system at 5,000 rpm is because the charging characteristics are a bit different at that speed. A bike can charge PERFECTLY at 2-3k. In fact, that is about where it starts regulating. Turning the engine faster, it will start regulating more and more, ending up in saturation. THAT is where you want to do your testing.

.

I don't know the history of the bike but what the P O told me, he did say that he uses the trickle charger during the winter, but it was by the bike when I first checked it out. I did test the battery this morning, 12.37 volts, (3year old) but then I started working on the wiring. Did not know about the tricklers "cooking" the battery.