Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Red wire from regulator

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 2
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous 1 2 template Next
    #1

    Red wire from regulator

    I am unsure of what R/R is on the skunk but i was doing some routine checks on all the bikes today and when I was checking the skunks charging at the battery i was maxing out at just 12.9 volts at 5,000 RPMS.

    So I can in and got the QUICK TEST procedures and went thru it all and everything was spot on. Less than the 0.5 voltage drop as required, good shiney clean connectors, auxillary ground directly from one of the mounting screws right to the battery negative etc etc.

    The red wire coming off the R/R was plugged into a red wire coming off the harness. So I thought what the heck and made a wire to go from the red R/R directly to the positive battery terminal and instantly had 14.1 volts at 5,000 RPMS and everything on the bike electrically was functioning as normal. Headlight, signals, horn, high beam / low beams..all working as they should.

    Question is why the instant improvement just by going directly to the battery with the red lead and will unplugging it from the harness be detrimental in the long run? What is the red wire from the harness feeding to since nothing has changed electrically since i rerouted the wire from the R/R??
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Chuck,
    Did you do the test where you touch one probe of the volt meter to the battery positive post, and the other on the red output wire from the R/R? Doing so will tell you how much voltage you are loosing on the way to the battery. Sounds like you need clean all the terminals for the power output path between the R/R and battery, but measuring will tell the real story.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      Chuck,
      Did you do the test where you touch one probe of the volt meter to the battery positive post, and the other on the red output wire from the R/R? Doing so will tell you how much voltage you are loosing on the way to the battery. Sounds like you need clean all the terminals for the power output path between the R/R and battery, but measuring will tell the real story.
      Yea, going to the battery direct is the easy way out, but not prefered.

      Comment

        #4
        Ed..every wire conector under the seat is a shiney as new and all have had dielectric grease on them since as long as I have had the bike. Dirty connections is well ruled out.

        I guess what I am asking is why the direct route after unplugging the wire from the harness was such a dramatic improvement. I am not interested in changing anything as its charging so nicely now.

        My questions was more of when the red wire was plugged into the red female connection on the harness (1) where does that lead go to on the bike and (2) is there anything wrong with me having redirected the red R/R wire directly to the battery instead.
        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

        Comment

          #5
          Maybe this is the problem I'm having since I cleaned up all my connections, those red wires. I think I ran the +from the bat to the fuse box and the R/R to the harness and I should swap the red + to battery to R/R and the red harness wire to fuse panel. That make any sense.

          Comment

            #6
            Chuck , on the skunk you had 2 red wires originally, because of the separate regulator/ rectifiers. One as I recall goes into the harness going forward to the ignition switch and the other feeds the fuse box. Which wire are you plugged into? on mine I tied the 2 together. Also what kind of shape are the connections on your fuse box and then your ignition switch
            1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
            80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
            1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished
            83 gs750ed- first new purchase
            85 EX500- vintage track weapon
            1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
            “Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
            If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
              Ed..every wire conector under the seat is a shiney as new and all have had dielectric grease on them since as long as I have had the bike. Dirty connections is well ruled out.

              I guess what I am asking is why the direct route after unplugging the wire from the harness was such a dramatic improvement. I am not interested in changing anything as its charging so nicely now.

              My questions was more of when the red wire was plugged into the red female connection on the harness (1) where does that lead go to on the bike and (2) is there anything wrong with me having redirected the red R/R wire directly to the battery instead.
              chuck, if all the connections were as you say there wouldn't be the loss you are experiencing. On my 1000S I measured significant looses in the R/R power output on the way to the battery. Removing the brass terminals from the plastic shells, cleaning them with acid and a stainless steel wire brush, then pinching the female terminals closed restored the lost voltage.
              Last edited by Nessism; 06-15-2014, 08:17 PM.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment

                #8
                Got me Harry. I will take pics of the stuff tomorrow. I cant follow a wiring diagram to save my own life. Now if someone writes down the path the current follows I can do that.. For example..if the power comes from the R/R them goes up to X switch..then from X switch to the headlight etc etc I can trace things.

                Also having a weird form of color blindness where colors fade together on me, its a real biitch to do wiring for me.
                MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                Comment

                  #9
                  And this R/R has 5 wires...three that the stator hooks to, the black with ( i think its green) tracer, and the red. Obviously the older two piece deals had been swapped out at some previous point.
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                    And this R/R has 5 wires...three that the stator hooks to, the black with ( i think its green) tracer, and the red. Obviously the older two piece deals had been swapped out at some previous point.
                    Which would be 3 for the stator , red to positive , black with tracer ground would be my guess. Now the question would be, which red wire is the regulator attached to, the one going to the harness or the one to the fuse box? on both of my bike's I have them tied together. But I also cleaned up the fuse box real well. It is amazing how much of a drop you can get through a fuse if the connections are bad. On one of my bikes I was tracing the harness cleaning things up and a buddy showed up and was laughing at me because I was chasing a 1/2 a volt. I found it it was in the fuse box.
                    1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
                    80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
                    1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished
                    83 gs750ed- first new purchase
                    85 EX500- vintage track weapon
                    1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
                    “Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
                    If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing

                    Comment

                      #11
                      I also soldered all my connections
                      1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
                      80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
                      1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished
                      83 gs750ed- first new purchase
                      85 EX500- vintage track weapon
                      1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
                      “Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
                      If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing

                      Comment

                        #12
                        According to the wiring diagram that red wire from the regulator tees off and goes to a fuse in the fuse panel and to the hot wire on the ignition switch. That is how it is setup on my 550 but the hot wire goes to the positive cable from the battery on the starter solenoid. I just installed an sh775 on mine and ran the positive and negatives from the regulator straight to the battery. Everything works and it charges great.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by jbthomp View Post
                          According to the wiring diagram that red wire from the regulator tees off and goes to a fuse in the fuse panel and to the hot wire on the ignition switch. That is how it is setup on my 550 but the hot wire goes to the positive cable from the battery on the starter solenoid. I just installed an sh775 on mine and ran the positive and negatives from the regulator straight to the battery. Everything works and it charges great.
                          Congradulations that is really "great"

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Be sure to carry extra 15 amp fuses!
                            1981 gs650L

                            "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                              Ed..every wire conector under the seat is a shiney as new and all have had dielectric grease on them since as long as I have had the bike. Dirty connections is well ruled out.
                              There's more to the wiring the just the visible connections. The usual route for the voltage also includes going through the fuse box and ignition switch which yours does in this case. One portion of red wire (the red wire splits into two) goes to the fuse panel (15A fuse) then on to the battery. The other portion connects to the ignition switch.
                              De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

                              Comment

                              Previous 1 2 template Next
                              Working...
                              X