Mystery permanent live wire ?

[Brendan W]

Today I removed the regulator +ve from the battery +ve and spliced it into the red wire downstream of the main fuse because I find Posplayr's argument about splitting currents convincing. The bike runs better.
In the middle of all this I find a terminated, permanent live, heavy gauge wire coming back as far as the top of the airbox with the redundant third phase loop and the oil pressure switch wire. What is going on ?

[mikerophone]

The bike runs better.

I'm curious, in what way does it run better? Better spark perhaps? Wonder if your battery will charge differently. Have you done the coil relay mod by chance?

I haven't connected my hot R&R lead into the main harness yet, I'm still connected to the battery direct but my R&R is clear up front which means a voltage drop over the long wire length even though it is 10 gauge wire. Maybe I'm overthinking it, but to splice into the harness conmecting it to the smaller gauge wire seems like we'd get less voltage at the battery from the R&R?

[tom203]

I haven't connected my hot R&R lead into the main harness yet, I'm still connected to the battery direct but my R&R is clear up front which means a voltage drop over the long wire length even though it is 10 gauge wire. Maybe I'm overthinking it, but to splice into the harness conmecting it to the smaller gauge wire seems like we'd get less voltage at the battery from the R&R?

Best to feed r/r output into harness, this lets loads get r/r output more directly and not rely on main fuse to be running close to maximum. You probably saw this already but posplayr explains it well....

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?170746-Why-does-Suzuki-split-R-R-output-between-ignition-and-battery&p=1913839#post1913839

[posplayr]

Today I removed the regulator +ve from the battery +ve and spliced it into the red wire downstream of the main fuse because I find Posplayr's argument about splitting currents convincing. The bike runs better.
In the middle of all this I find a terminated, permanent live, heavy gauge wire coming back as far as the top of the airbox with the redundant third phase loop and the oil pressure switch wire. What is going on ?

The OEM harness connection for the OEM R/R plug contain a Red 16ga wire that goes to the "T" and the W/G and W/.R wires for the headlamp tool. That is where you should attach the R/R +ve. If you found another spot down stream of the 15 amp fuse then you probably attached it to the exact same spot as the wire you are looking at. You can cut it back and tape it over as it is now not needed anymore.

Not sure why the bike would be running alot better except if you could see that you improved your voltages with the change.

[Brendan W]

The OEM harness connection for the OEM R/R plug contain a Red 16ga wire that goes to the "T" and the W/G and W/.R wires for the headlamp tool. That is where you should attach the R/R +ve. If you found another spot down stream of the 15 amp fuse then you probably attached it to the exact same spot as the wire you are looking at. You can cut it back and tape it over as it is now not needed anymore.

Not sure why the bike would be running alot better except if you could see that you improved your voltages with the change.

Think I'll run the R/R back up to that fat wire with a matching line and get that juice close to where it's needed. If I understand correctly it is the original Tee. Hard to explain the better running. It feels sharper on the throttle low down. Probably better voltage to the ignition. Someone has had a real go at this harness and the only way is up. Just found four domestic screw type connectors on the coil supply. Is there no end to the ingenuity of POs.

[posplayr]

Think I'll run the R/R back up to that fat wire with a matching line and get that juice close to where it's needed. If I understand correctly it is the original Tee. Hard to explain the better running. It feels sharper on the throttle low down. Probably better voltage to the ignition. Someone has had a real go at this harness and the only way is up. Just found four domestic screw type connectors on the coil supply. Is there no end to the ingenuity of POs.

Treat the double red's as a single wire to the "T". Basically the Battery (after fusing) and the R/R are the two power sources that get connected at the "T" to feed the ignition switch.
If you did a coil relay mod, you would want to power it from the "T" as well.

[Brendan W]

Thanks a lot for that again. Thats the way I have it set up now. Today's excitement is finding a Scotchlock on the orange return wire at the ign switch.!!!?? There are times when I think a total rewire is going to be easier but I know better than that
Relays are in the future especially the headlight as over here we have the added bonus of an on/off switch. I'm losing 0.8V at the bulb. Who knows maybe with the scotchlock sorted things will improve.