Electrical rewire-overhaul

[Grimly]

They may be genuine, but they are not the series-type R/R. Have to pay attention to the part numbers.

This is NOT the right one:



THIS is the right one:

Interestingly, Shindengen's site draws no distinction between SH-775s, lumping all the SH-775s together as series types.

http://www.shindengen.co.jp/product_e/electro/catalog.html

Only way to be certain is get an ammeter on one of the Can-Am take-offs and see what its load/unload current is.

[Grimly]

You guys are too skeptical! Only Polaris has the brains to use a series r/r? Not likely! Seadoo makes some pretty sophisticated (and expensive) watercraft, I think they might have discovered the series advantage. And I wouldn't expect them to be using Polaris part numbers- they'd insist on their own scheme.

Missing the point, Tom.
Some unscrupulous sellers are promoting their wares - wares which they know damn fine are inferior shunt type and if you pay careful attention to the phrasing of the advert, you will see that they never actually mention the words "series" or "Shindengen", but simply say these R-Rs are for the watercraft, ATV, whatever mentioned in the advert. It's up to the buyer to make the leap that they will be the right part.
The water is full of sharks.

[tom203]

I have seen plenty of series imitations, but none had the SH-775 marked on them, like the OP's first link. Personally, I doubt that even Polaris dealers know the difference between series and shunt, so I ain't surprised that few others do and attempt to sell by shape/connector layout
at some point, these SH -775's will become noticed and appreciated, so buy now while they are affordable.

[tom203]

"Only way to be certain is get an ammeter on one of the Can-Am take-offs and see what its load/unload current is."

yes , this would be best ,but a crude test would be to do the diode test from Basscliff's

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/electrical_odd-n-ends.html#B01

a series unit would not conduct in either direction due to turned off SCR's

[t2098]

Wanted to add my 2 cents to this thread since it's one of the first ones that comes up on a Google search for SH775AA. I've been testing a bunch of these Shindengen regulators after retrofitting them to a number of bikes, and the difference I've managed to find so far is that there's a different voltage set point for each: (Note, these were all tested on the same day, same bike, same battery, same wiring, etc.)


SH775BA: 14.2V from 2000rpm to redline (3 samples tested, one brand new, two used - all identical)
SH775AA: 14.7V from 2000rpm to redline (2 samples tested, one brand new, one used - both identical)


Granted, I have a fairly limited sample set, but the trend is obvious and it makes sense given that the Shindengen part numbers are different. Shindengen does also note on their website that they will make these units custom for any OEM with whatever regulated voltage they want.


Your mileage may vary of course, as different bikes will have different voltage drops through the wiring, connectors, etc., but in particular if you're wanting to use a LiFePO4 (Lithium) battery in your bike, you might be better served getting the SH775BA - a little less voltage means a little less stress on the cells.

[posplayr]

Wanted to add my 2 cents to this thread since it's one of the first ones that comes up on a Google search for SH775AA. I've been testing a bunch of these Shindengen regulators after retrofitting them to a number of bikes, and the difference I've managed to find so far is that there's a different voltage set point for each: (Note, these were all tested on the same day, same bike, same battery, same wiring, etc.)


SH775BA: 14.2V from 2000rpm to redline (3 samples tested, one brand new, two used - all identical)
SH775AA: 14.7V from 2000rpm to redline (2 samples tested, one brand new, one used - both identical)


Granted, I have a fairly limited sample set, but the trend is obvious and it makes sense given that the Shindengen part numbers are different. Shindengen does also note on their website that they will make these units custom for any OEM with whatever regulated voltage they want.


Your mileage may vary of course, as different bikes will have different voltage drops through the wiring, connectors, etc., but in particular if you're wanting to use a LiFePO4 (Lithium) battery in your bike, you might be better served getting the SH775BA - a little less voltage means a little less stress on the cells.

Nice work. Did you measure this at the R/R terminals? That would eliminate wiring differences.

[t2098]

Nice work. Did you measure this at the R/R terminals? That would eliminate wiring differences.

It was measured at the battery terminals, but all R/R units were tested on the same bike, so it was an apples-to-apples comparison at least (which is why I'm confident about the regulation set point being 0.5v higher)

My point about the wiring differences was more a caveat that just because I got 14.2/14.7v on my bike doesn't necessarily mean someone else will get those exact same voltages on theirs.

[posplayr]

It was measured at the battery terminals, but all R/R units were tested on the same bike, so it was an apples-to-apples comparison at least (which is why I'm confident about the regulation set point being 0.5v higher)

My point about the wiring differences was more a caveat that just because I got 14.2/14.7v on my bike doesn't necessarily mean someone else will get those exact same voltages on theirs.

If you measure at the R/R then the connection controversy is mute; there is none. While I grant you that there is likely a voltage difference in the R/R set points based on the difference you measure, you don't really know what that is to the certainly you quote because you measured at the battery you added that uncertainty.