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Yet another Dyna question. Plugs caps?

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    #1

    Yet another Dyna question. Plugs caps?

    I got my Dyna installed and have mostly figured out the issues I had. I still can't get the bike started though. I removed the carbs from the equation and sprayed carb cleaner into the intakes... nothing. The plugs are sparking and my compression is anywhere from 145-160. The timing is dead on, I've checked it over and over.

    I decided to check my plug caps and found one of them reading open, all the others read 10K ohms. Here's where I have a question: The Dyna installation guide says coil secondaries are supposed to be around 13.5 to 14.5K ohm. Mine were right around there with the caps removed. Put the caps on and I have about 34K ohms obviously though. The primary resistance on the coils are 4 ohms.

    My spark voltage tool says I'm getting 5K to 8.9K volts to the coil wires. Seems low to me. So if you're using a Dyna, what plug caps are you using?
    Last edited by Guest; 01-18-2015, 10:46 PM.
    Tags: None
    #2
    The Dyna S is designed to run with the stock coils and caps. You need either a resistor wire or a resistor cap. Either or, but not both. I'm not familiar with a spark voltage tool so can't comment there.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      The Dyna S is designed to run with the stock coils and caps. You need either a resistor wire or a resistor cap. Either or, but not both. I'm not familiar with a spark voltage tool so can't comment there.
      Thank you. Caps definitely 10K and non resister plugs. I'm using the OTC branded version of this tool: http://www.2040parts.com/_content/it...108946/003.jpg I'm just stumped. Good compression, spark and starter fluid = no go. Has to be something easy I'm missing...

      Comment

        #4
        Caps should be 5k. No first hand experience but I think you can take them apart and clean the insides.

        Could the spark be mixed up side to side.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
          Caps should be 5k. No first hand experience but I think you can take them apart and clean the insides.
          Funny, I was just looking at that: http://www.randakksblog.com/spark-plug-tricks/. I have two new 5K caps I bought for my CB750 in my garage somewhere.

          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
          Could the spark be mixed up side to side.
          I tried that as well. I have the coil on the left side of the bike is feeding plugs 1/4 (despite the confusing array of labels on the wires. I'll try to get a picture)..

          Comment

            #6
            Here's how my plug wires are labeled (to cylinders 1 and 2). I reason it's telling me the black/yellow lead goes to the coil for 2/3 and the white lead for 1/4. FWIW, those leads are going the the (+) side of the coil and the orange/white leads to the (-). I'm not sure what the 1/3 and 2/4 labels are all about but I don't think it's right...

            labels.jpg

            Comment

              #7
              Not worried about the coils, rather the way you are feeding them from the Dyna S.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                Not worried about the coils, rather the way you are feeding them from the Dyna S.
                Ah, understand. I set the timing (statically) exactly as described. For the left side coil, my test light comes on exactly at the 1/4 (F) mark (or the full advance mark as their instructions insists for some reason). Either way, right on.

                Edit: nice carb tutorial BTW. I refused to pull my floats out when I went through mine having snapped a float post off once before...
                Last edited by Guest; 01-18-2015, 11:51 PM.

                Comment

                  #9
                  In regards to carb float bowls,the techs I managed used a center punch from Snap-on that was spring loaded.You just press it down and it would load itself up and gently snap a center punch for drilling.it worked on float bowl pins because it was a pretty gentle snap without any weight behind it
                  Current Rides: 82 GS1100E, 00 Triumph 955 Speed Triple, 03 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 01 Honda GL1800, '15 Kawasaki 1000 Versys
                  Past Rides: 72 Honda SL-125, Kawasaki KE-175, 77 GS750 with total yosh stage 1 kit, 79 GS1000s, 80 GS1000S, 82 GS750e,82 GS1000S, 84 VF500f, 86 FZR600, 95 Triumph Sprint 900,96 Triumph Sprint, 97 Triumph Sprint, 01 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 07 Triumph Tiger 1050, 01 Yam YFZ250F
                  Work in progress: 78 GS1000, unknown year GS1100ES

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by fmctm1sw View Post
                    Ah, understand. I set the timing (statically) exactly as described. For the left side coil, my test light comes on exactly at the 1/4 (F) mark (or the full advance mark as their instructions insists for some reason). Either way, right on.

                    Edit: nice carb tutorial BTW. I refused to pull my floats out when I went through mine having snapped a float post off once before...
                    If you follow the instruction you won't snap the float post. You can't clean the carbs properly with the floats still installed. Maybe dirty carbs is the reason the engine won't fire?

                    Regarding the Dyna S install, did you twist and hold the rotor against the advance spring when checking timing the way you describe?
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                      If you follow the instruction you won't snap the float post. You can't clean the carbs properly with the floats still installed. Maybe dirty carbs is the reason the engine won't fire?
                      Perhaps, I removed the carbs from the equation completely. I'm using carb cleaner in the intakes to try to get a couple cracks out of it.

                      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                      Regarding the Dyna S install, did you twist and hold the rotor against the advance spring when checking timing the way you describe?
                      I did it that way and it was right on the advance mark. I also let it go and checked it that way it was right on the "F."

                      Comment

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