Dash/lights/starter won't turn on, battery seems fine.

[BBoh21]

Ok guys, so I just got home with some new fuses and something weird is happening, I'll try to my best to explain it. I put in the new fuse and checked all four to make sure they were fine with my multimeter. When I turned the key on nothing happened. I checked the battery with the meter again with the key on. After bouncing around for a bit it settled in at it's usual ~12.4 and the dash lights then turned on. When I tried to start it the starter clicked then the dash lights went back off. I checked the battery and it was bouncing around up anywhere from 50 to 100. If I meter on the battery it would eventually settle back down to its usual voltage again within about a minute and the dash lights would turn back on.

I repeated this process a few times with the multimeter on the battery and the same thing kept happening. However, if I didn't check the battery with the mutlimeter after trying to start the bike the dash lights would go off and wouldn't turn back on, no matter how long I waited. It was only until I checked the battery again with the meter that the dash lights would come back on.

Can anyone give some insight on what is happening here? It appears that putting the multimeter on the battery is completing a circuit? I'm really not sure what to make of this.

Here's a picture of what's under my right cover (fuses and whatnot) if that helps at all. I took off the fuse box cover, it's not missing:

http://imgur.com/z1RPI08

Steve was asking about points/electric ignition earlier, unless I'm mistaken it appears to be points ignition. I took a picture just to be sure:

http://imgur.com/UqD66w4

[Steve]

Yep, them's points.

Apparently you have a LATE '79, that started some of the features of the '80, as the factory manual does not show four fuses until the '80 model. All the other things you mentioned that I asked about verify it's a '79, though.

About the wonky meter readings: yes, the meter does "complete a circuit", but when it's used properly, it puts so liitle of a load that it does not affect the circuit. When the meter read 50 and 100, did it still show "volts", not "milli-volts"?

.

[BBoh21]

The meter reads at mV when it bounces around in the 50-100, not V. Didn't notice that the first time and had to go back out and check after reading your reply. So when I turn the key on nothing happens until I attach the meter, then then dial lights go on and it goes up to 12.5 V, then as soon as I try to start it it shuts back off and goes down to 50-100 mV. If I hold the meter on the battery it'll eventually go up to 12.5 V again and the dial lights come back on; if i don't, it'll stay shut off. Just rechecked the fuses and they're all still fine. I'm not sure where to go from here.

[posplayr]

Are you connecting direct to the battery before you turn the key on? Do that. Measure the voltage . Should be 12.5V or above.
The next step is to turn on the Key without cranking (this should give about a 7 amp load with the headlamp on)... What happens. Report the results.

See Quick Test in my signature.

[Redman]

The meter reads at mV when it bounces around in the 50-100, not V. Didn't notice that the first time and had to go back out and check after reading your reply. So when I turn the key on nothing happens until I attach the meter, then then dial lights go on and it goes up to 12.5 V, then as soon as I try to start it it shuts back off and goes down to 50-100 mV. If I hold the meter on the battery it'll eventually go up to 12.5 V again and the dial lights come back on; if i don't, it'll stay shut off. Just rechecked the fuses and they're all still fine. I'm not sure where to go from here.

I would say that touching the meter leads to the battery or battery connections should not effect anything, that is the electrical load of the meter (in voltage setting) is purposly small so it does not effect anything.
Maybe just the fact that anything is touching the battery connection is what is happening, such as maybe a bad battery connection. Try taking the cables off the battery, inspect, cleanup, and put back.

When you say meter is jumping around before it settles out, might that be the meter autoranging. Maybe you can select a more specific range, or maybe once it settles out there is a button you can push so it stays on that range.

[BBoh21]

Are you connecting direct to the battery before you turn the key on? Do that. Measure the voltage . Should be 12.5V or above.
The next step is to turn on the Key without cranking (this should give about a 7 amp load with the headlamp on)... What happens. Report the results.

See Quick Test in my signature.

Voltage before I turn the key on was at ~12.2V this morning. Last night it was around 12.4V, so I probably drained it a little messing around with it. With the headlamp on this morning read 11.8V. I just charged my battery a couple nights ago. Looking at your charging system post that starting voltage seems low, but the drop after turning the head lamp on seems to be the .5V that's expected.

[JTGS850GL]

The meter reads at mV when it bounces around in the 50-100, not V. Didn't notice that the first time and had to go back out and check after reading your reply. So when I turn the key on nothing happens until I attach the meter, then then dial lights go on and it goes up to 12.5 V, then as soon as I try to start it it shuts back off and goes down to 50-100 mV. If I hold the meter on the battery it'll eventually go up to 12.5 V again and the dial lights come back on; if i don't, it'll stay shut off. Just rechecked the fuses and they're all still fine. I'm not sure where to go from here.

Where were you probing when the lights went back on. You have a loose or corroded connection and probing it completed the circuit. I'd disconnect the battery and make sure the connections are clean and tight. If you were probing else where when this happened then specify where.

[BBoh21]

Where were you probing when the lights went back on. You have a loose or corroded connection and probing it completed the circuit. I'd disconnect the battery and make sure the connections are clean and tight. If you were probing else where when this happened then specify where.

I was probing right on top of the terminal bolts. When I get home I'll check and clean the connections. I've never cleaned electrical connections before, I'm gonna pick up a wire brush and some electrical cleaner on the way home. Anything else I need?

[JTGS850GL]

That should work to get you going. While inspecting the cables that connect to the terminals, look for any loose crimps or frayed wire connections. It may also be possible that you have a defective battery terminal with a bad internal connection. Pressing down on the terminal can be giving you continuity until the higher loads of the starter breaks them open again. If you have another battery laying around I'd try that. You could even use an automotive battery with jumper cables to verify the bad battery theory.

While you're checking things, you might want to give the ground and positive battery connections a wiggle to see if that brings power back. That would verify a bad connection to the battery.

[BBoh21]

Looks like it was as simple as a bad battery connection to the positive terminal. Wiggling it brought power back. Unhooked all the connections, cleaned them, then put them back on tight. Bike fired up like a charm Thanks so much for all the help everyone, I've learned so much over the past month or so I've been on here. I'm just glad it was a simple oversight issue from a beginner rather than something worse.

[JTGS850GL]

It's usually the simple solution. Glad it worked.