Front Brake Stuck

[steve murdoch]

A cheaper method is grinding down the points of a set of needle nose pliers.
Start with a set with long, slim jaws. They are usually fairly cheap at Harbour Freight.

[cb1ocker]

Once I got another set of hands involved I was able to get the clip out using a couple of stronger picks. Used an air compressor to pop the stuck piston out of the caliper. Still in process of cleaning everything as good as I can, but now i'm just waiting for all the replacement plastic bits and the master cylinder piston and I'll get it all put back together. A huge thanks to all that chimed in here, it was a huge help.

[Nessism]

You ordered a new brake line too right?

[cb1ocker]

Yes, both front brake lines, the master cylinder piston cup set, new brake pads, and replacements for all plastic parts in the master cylinder/reservoir and caliper.

Once I get this all back together I should probably do the same for the rear brakes, they're probably in similar condition.

[Nessism]

You are going to need some heavy black moly caliper grease for the sliding pin(s) too. The black Permatex stuff that comes in a red labeled bottle is good. Don't use the clear caliper grease stuff. That stuff is thin and too runny.

[cb1ocker]

I did pick up a small bottle of what was labeled, I believe, caliper grease. I won't be able to get more details from it until I get home, but I'll check it out and make sure it's the moly grease and pick some up if it's not. Thanks!

[cb1ocker]

I received all the parts I needed to replace the brake lines and rebuild the caliper and master cylinder, got everything installed and in place, and I'm getting no brake fluid leaving the master cylinder.

I think I put the master cylinder spring in correctly, but I'm not sure. Is the boot side of the spring supposed to go in the cylinder first, or is the open side of the spring supposed to go in first? (I know, noob mistake, I should have taken a picture of that, it's like the only thing I missed when I took pics of the tear down). I tried both ways and I still can't get fluid to leave the reservoir. With the boot side in first I get what looks like air bubbles in the reservoir when I pull the brake lever, but nothing leaves the cylinder, with the open side in first I get no air bubbles in the reservoir, but I can feel air pulling in and out on the end of the brake lines, which I can't feel the other way.

Is the return hole still clogged? I've doused it with brake cleaner, run wires as far in as they will go (which isn't far). I'm not sure what else to try...

[OldVet66]

It can be difficult. I had to use a vacuum pump to fill the lines before I could get it to start working. The return hole could still be clogged because it doesn't take much to clog it but don't jump to that conclusion before you get fluid in the lines and the system back together and bled. If the hole is clogged it works one way pumping fluid to the brake cylinders and eventually the lever will have no slack in it at all. I don't think you will get any return action until the system is full.

[cb1ocker]

It can be difficult. I had to use a vacuum pump to fill the lines before I could get it to start working. The return hole could still be clogged because it doesn't take much to clog it but don't jump to that conclusion before you get fluid in the lines and the system back together and bled. If the hole is clogged it works one way pumping fluid to the brake cylinders and eventually the lever will have no slack in it at all. I don't think you will get any return action until the system is full.

That makes sense regarding the return hole. Any idea which way the master cylinder spring goes into the cylinder? Open end in first or boot end in first? Once I'm certain I have that back together right I'll try to find someone with a vacuum pump.

[Nessism]

If you can find a piece of clear tubing put it on one of the caliper nipples and suck on it with your mouth to draw fluid out of the master reservoir and into the pumping cylinder. Obviously, watch the clear tubing to make sure you are not about to draw fluid into your mouth.

Bubbles should raise out of the small return port hole. No bubbles indicate the hole is plugged or fluid is not getting down into the piston.

[cb1ocker]

Found a handy write up on installing the rebuild kit:

http://www.motosport.com/blog/how-to-rebuild-a-master-cylinder

So at least I know that I installed it correctly. I'll try to find either a vacuum pump or a tight hose I can fit on the bleeder screw, but I had a heck of time finding the too big hose I used to drain the brake fluid initially, and even that I had to buy in a 25' section.

[2BRacing]

Try to find some clear plastic tubing that is used for aquarium / fish tank air pumps.

[cb1ocker]

Try to find some clear plastic tubing that is used for aquarium / fish tank air pumps.

Didn't think of that, thanks, I'll swing through the local pet store on the way home from work.

[mikerophone]

Lowes or Home Depot should have 1/8" clear tubing sold by the foot too. Sometimes the pet stores charge too much or don't sell by the foot.

A mity-vac is a good investment for general vacuum needs and priming brake systems. I've used the cheap harbor freight version as well.

Another trick I've used to build pressure after bleeding is to put a clamp on the brake handle overnight. Not sure why it works, perhaps the bubbles make their way back into the reservoir overnight and pop...

[cb1ocker]

thanks for the lowes/home depot suggestion, i may try those first since i drive by them on the way to the pet store.