dyna s ds3-2 install on gs650g

[60ratrod]

so after many attempts to get this bike back on the road, or at least running decently, i ended up having to go with the dyna s ds3-2. after installing it, it runs so much better. so here's what we gotta do to install one in a gs650:

first, let's get into the signal generator by removing the cover:


now let's remove the signal gen plate by the 3 screws on the perimeter, loosen the screw on the oil pressure sensor, and disconnect this blue/green connector, and the oil pressure sensor wire:





now lets remove the rotor and advancer assembly by using a 19mm wrench on the big nut, and a 12mm socket on the bolt:



set this aside, and don't misplace the nut or bolt, we'll need those in a bit. now it's time to get the ignitor out of there. mine is already out of there since i made a diy ignitor last year. but to remove the igntor we need to get the battery tray out by removing the 2 bolts with a 10mm socket. what i do to keep from tearing out any wires is unlock the helmet lock and hanging it where the signal gen and ignitor connected through it:

[60ratrod]

now that the battery tray is out of the way, we need to get the ignitor-r/r bracket out of there. take a 10mm socket with an extension and remove the 2 bolts there. there is a ground wire to that bracket that is held by left hand bolt. keep that in a place you will remember where it is. there are 2 large JIS screws that hold the ignitor to the bracket. once you have the ignitor out, put the r/r back in, make sure you connect the ground wire, or you'll smoke check the r/r:


now lets install the dyna s advancer on the rotor. pull the old advancer off, clean, and relube the rotor assembly. slide the dyna s advancer on, making sure the magnet is facing the left side of the rotor, and spread the advancing weights so you can get them in the slots on the advancer weights. to figure out which side is left, hold the rotor with the 1/4 marks facing up. now reinstall with the nut and bolt. you are going to need to use the spacer that came with the dyna s. the spacer will go on between the advancer and the nut. lube this up before you install it(i didn't take a photo of it):




now, before we install the dyna s plate, we need to modify it a bit. if you noticed, there is a notch in the bottom of the oem signal gen to allow clearance for the pressure sensor. i didn't notch the plate like the factory, but it has almost 100% adjustment. to give you more room, remove the harness clamp screw so you don't damage the harness. now install the plate using the screws that you removed. i went and got some button headed allen head screws. just make sure you have enough room for adjustment:

[60ratrod]

now route the dyna s harness around like the signal gen, having the battery tray out helps immensely. once routed to the other side of the air box, we need to do the electrical connections. since i had a shot ignitor, i cut the wires off of it and soldered them to the dyna s harness. this part is relatively easy. the black wire from the dyna connects to the factory black/yellow, the white goes to the white/black, and both reds go to the orange/white. dyna doesn't say specifically where to hook the reds to, but since orange/white is 12vdc, i went a head and used it. once connected, put the battery tray back in, connect the dyna s back where the oem ignitor connected, and throw the battery back in:



i didn't take photos of this part, but you are going to need a test light. turn the motor to where the 1/4 F mark is ALMOST lined up with the mark on the cases, maybe keep it about 1/4" away. now connect the negative side of the timing light to the negative post on the battery, and put the test light probe in the back of the connector on the white wire. this is the signal wire for the 1/4 coil. now turn turn the ignition key on and turn the motor to the F mark while holding the advancer all the way advanced. once the marks on the rotor and case line up while holding the advancer, the test light should light up. to make sure that you are properly adjusted on the 1/4 side, just release the advancer and the light should go off, and the light should come back on if you advance it again. now put the light on the black/yellow wire and repeat. there isn't going to be an F mark on the 2/3 side of the rotor, but the F mark is about 1/8" away from the T mark on the 1/4 side. once this is done, you have set your static timing. you should be able to hit the start button and fire right up.

[60ratrod]

since i just replaced everything else, i went a head and replaced my coil wires. i bought a set of 8mm suppression cores off ebay that are a trim to length. these wires are pretty kick ass. since i couldn't find the factory wire straps from when i had to do the trans and did the valves while the motor was out. so i went to the hardware store and bought some 3/8" rubber coated harness clamps. i like how it turned out:

left side:


right side:

[tom203]

Nice work- I see the black plastic gizmo that the S. Caroilna member was confused about.

[60ratrod]

Well hopefully this answers a lot of questions about the dyna s going onto the 650s. And if it helps others as well, all the better

[ajkammerer93]

YES!!! Nice work sir. I appreciate the pictures and guide! When I get back into town tomorrow, hopefully I'll have it running in no time thanks to your help!

Just out of curiosity, are you running dyna coils as well?

[ajkammerer93]

Also, did you route the wires from the signal coils to the coils the same way it was originally routed? I was thinking it might be more direct to route them the other way. And did you route a new wire for the oil pressure sensor?

[60ratrod]

Yes i am running the dyna green 3.0 ohm coils. I think the dyna coils were over working my ignitor, causing my issues. And yes, i did. I forgot to document that. And i need some clarification on what you mean? My method of using the factory harness makes for a simpler and easier electrical connection. But how ever you want to wire it up is up to you. Just remember, if you hard wire it in and you have to remove the engine for what ever reasoning, you will either have to cut the wires or remove the dyna from the engine and put it out of the way. Using the factory connector allows you to leave it installed in the motor, there by reducing the chances of damaging it when you remove the motor

[60ratrod]

Well, the left signal coil on the dyna is bad, i'm talking with tech support to see what i can do. Hopefully i don't have to buy another one

[ajkammerer93]

Sorry to hear you're having a problem.. any solution with it?

I'm happy to report that my bike is now purring like a kitten with its brand new ignition system. Any tips on setting the timing? I kind of just did it by ear by rotating the signal coil plate until everything seemed to be purring optimally.. Obviously that isnt the most exact method, but everything seems to be running great as of now! =D

[60ratrod]

yes. get a timing light. you may have to adjust each signal coil. to set timing on 1/4 and 2/3, connect the timing light to either 1 or 4 plug wires, since they both fire at the same time, loosen and move until the timing mark on the case lines up with the rotor as the light flashes and retighten to set that side, then repeat for the other side.

on a side note, do you happen to still have the installation instructions? I think I threw mine out when I cleaned my garage after getting the dyna installed. I need to know if your instructions say to connect the white dyna to the original white and the black to the original black/yellow. I think dyna has either been sending out outdated installation instructions with their kits or they have outdated instructions on their site and that's what their techs are using. I remember mine saying white to white and black to black/yellow

[ajkammerer93]

Thanks, I do still have the instructions. I'm at work right now, but when I get home I can scan them and post them. But the wiring diagram had the black wire from the dyna going to the 1-4 coil and the white wire going to the 2-3 coil. Then the red wire joins with a 12v wire, and splits to the other coil terminals. The original wires (black/yellow and white) going to the coils you should no longer need.

[ajkammerer93]

The original white and black/yellow wires come from the ignitor, which is no longer being used with the dyna system. So you can either pull them, or tape them up and forget about them. But the wires from the dyna should go straight to the coils.

[60ratrod]

i'm just trying to prove to tech support that what they have on their site for download is out dated, because the tech rep kinda pitched a fit over that I used the factory ignitor harness. but right now I think it's a grounding issue with the left pulser coil. after I got home last night I took the cover off to make sure the coil hadn't come loose from my last round of trouble shooting and it hadn't. so before I did anything else I checked the signal voltage which should be between 0.8vdc and 1.4vdc. I was getting about 0.2vdc. so I figured, what the hell, why not move it around and see if I can't get the voltage to come back. so I loosened it up and moved the coil back and forth a bit and I went from nothing with the key on to now having an audible fault with the sspb, which got me thinking. so I re-removed it to inspect to see if I could see if it was over heated, and it looked fine. but I did see what looked to be just 2 slight dabs of heat sink compound, which might be causing my issue. I had to go to best buy to get some heat sink compound since napa and oreilly's parts counter guys looked at me like I was crazy. so when I get home tonight I will try cleaning both pulser coils and the back plate and apply some of the heat sink compound I bought and see what that does and how long that will last. but instead of just a small dab or two like what dyna used, I am going to apply a full and even thin layer on the back side of the pulser coils