Noob GS1000G stator replacement question

[Steve]

Ok, so I got the stator swapped out checked the voltage real quick. I'm getting 12vac. So I took about a 25 minute ride.

Something is definitely WRONG here. A brand-new stator is only giving you 12 volts? And you took it for a ride?

I will have to check one of my bikes, but I don't ever remember seeing only 12 volts out of a stator, even at idle.

With a previous post, I tried to make sure you were checking the pairs properly, now I guess I will have to stop assuming and ask you directly ... are you holding the engine at 5000 RPM? We need to reduce the number of variables here. The factory manual calls for that speed, all of the testing that we ask for also assumes that speed is used. Stator output is directly related to engine speed, so please use that engine speed.

If you have read any of the manuals or tutorials on this subject, you should know that the stator output should be in the 75-90 VAC range. You state that you had 12 volts, "So I took about a 25 minute ride." Knowing that the output is about 1/6 of what is needed, you decided to take it out for a ride?

My interest in supporting this project could be fading rapidly.

.

[JTGS850GL]

You might also add that the stator AC output measurements are performed with the stator disconnected from the R/R. I've also seen a few 1980 stators that are 12 pole v/s 18 pole. Seems like 1980 was a transition year. If the wrong stator is installed then you'll have little to no output.

Yep, I'm back!!!

[BigD]

Something is definitely WRONG here. A brand-new stator is only giving you 12 volts? And you took it for a ride?

I will have to check one of my bikes, but I don't ever remember seeing only 12 volts out of a stator, even at idle.

With a previous post, I tried to make sure you were checking the pairs properly, now I guess I will have to stop assuming and ask you directly ... are you holding the engine at 5000 RPM? We need to reduce the number of variables here. The factory manual calls for that speed, all of the testing that we ask for also assumes that speed is used. Stator output is directly related to engine speed, so please use that engine speed.

If you have read any of the manuals or tutorials on this subject, you should know that the stator output should be in the 75-90 VAC range. You state that you had 12 volts, "So I took about a 25 minute ride." Knowing that the output is about 1/6 of what is needed, you decided to take it out for a ride?

My interest in supporting this project could be fading rapidly.

.

Well I appreciate the input, but I am TDY in Vegas right now so I don't have access to many tools. I am trying to really just get this thing on the road reliably by going after common problems. It didn't work so now the bike is just going on to a trailer and taken home. I don't have my manuals and I didn't have much time to work on it. The bike still isn't charging and I was able to limp it back to base. I will be digging into this issue once I get home.

[Brendan W]

Quick test http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...92#post1272192
Charging health http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...31#post1138531
GS stator http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...S-Stator/page4

There is a lot of stuff here. Take it step by step. Get back as soon as you have numbers or questions.

[BigD]

Ok, I finally got time to work on the bike. The bike has been running on battery power instead of stator power. I am getting only 2.5 vac from checking the 3 wires in between the r/r and stator and I am also getting 2.5 vac to ground on all the wires. I have changed the stator and I changed the r/r. I would have to guess that perhaps the stator is grounding against it's mount on the case cover, but I'm not sure where should start in chasing down the the power to ground issue. I checked the voltage coming off of the battery at 12vdc before I started, 11.5 when running, and no change at 2,500 or 5,000 rpm.

[BigD]

I also found these wires that are not connected to anything. soo... that's probably worth addressing too.IMG_20151019_181846.jpg

[posplayr]

Ok, I finally got time to work on the bike. The bike has been running on battery power instead of stator power. I am getting only 2.5 vac from checking the 3 wires in between the r/r and stator and I am also getting 2.5 vac to ground on all the wires. I have changed the stator and I changed the r/r. I would have to guess that perhaps the stator is grounding against it's mount on the case cover, but I'm not sure where should start in chasing down the the power to ground issue. I checked the voltage coming off of the battery at 12vdc before I started, 11.5 when running, and no change at 2,500 or 5,000 rpm.

If you think about it, you will probably amaze your self how little trouble it was to do those measurements and home much more you know about what is going on.

[posplayr]

I also found these wires that are not connected to anything. soo... that's probably worth addressing too.[ATTACH=CONFIG]42559[/ATTACH]

l
ooks like standard procedure from here. See gs charging health.

[BigD]

Is there any common occurrence that would cause it to ground out like that?

[posplayr]

Is there any common occurrence that would cause it to ground out like that?

The most common seems to be inside of the stator cover where the wires "should be" carefully routed through a guard.

[JTGS850GL]

Those two wires are the ones that loop one of the stator phases through the headlight bucket and back. No need to have them connected to anything.

Just as a sanity check, disconnect the three yellow stator wires from the R/R and measure resistance between each wire going to the stator to ground. If they don't read as open, then you have a short between the one of the wires and the case or the winding insulation has failed. As posplayr said, the most common short (besides a bad stator itself) is at the point where the stator goes into the wire guard that's screwed down to the inside of the stator cover. It keeps the wires out of the rotating assembly.

One other thing that might be in play here... 1980 was a transition year for stators going from 12 to 18 pole. I've seen some 12 pole units and 18 pole units during that year on 1000's. If you have the wrong stator/flywheel assembly then you will not get any output from the stator.

[BigD]

Those two wires are the ones that loop one of the stator phases through the headlight bucket and back. No need to have them connected to anything.

Just as a sanity check, disconnect the three yellow stator wires from the R/R and measure resistance between each wire going to the stator to ground. If they don't read as open, then you have a short between the one of the wires and the case or the winding insulation has failed. As posplayr said, the most common short (besides a bad stator itself) is at the point where the stator goes into the wire guard that's screwed down to the inside of the stator cover. It keeps the wires out of the rotating assembly.

One other thing that might be in play here... 1980 was a transition year for stators going from 12 to 18 pole. I've seen some 12 pole units and 18 pole units during that year on 1000's. If you have the wrong stator/flywheel assembly then you will not get any output from the stator.

Spot on assessment. I checked for continuity and got it across all three wires. I will be pulling the cover tomorrow hopefully. Thanks for the heads up.