12.9 at 5k rev?

[jbutterfi]

Hi all,

Apologies if this has been covered, but wasn't able to uncover with a search.

I have a 1981 GS550L that I'm working on.

Cleaned up the carbs, got it running, and took it for a ride. 5 miles later... bump started it all the way home.

Tested the stator, bad. Replaced it. Still didn't get what I was looking for at the battery under rev.

Tested the regulator/rectifier, bad. Replaced it tonight.

I'm getting 12.5 on the battery at idle, rev to 5k and I'm getting 12.9 (at the most)

My repair manual indicates I should be getting 13.5 or more at 5K rpm.

Voltage isn't dropping at rev, so that's cool. But I really don't want to bump start home again.

So do I have a bad, new stator/RR?

Bad connections?

This forum has been an incredible resource. I appreciate any and all feedback.

[wymple]

On my 850G I connected all 3 stator wires directly to the R/R without the detours. That and good connections picked up 1.5 volts. I started with what you have going.

[tkent02]

They all have bad connections. Left bad these connections will eat all the new parts you can throw at it.

[Redman]

jb,

Yes, maybe there has been a few discussions about charging problems.

Disconnect stator again, check the Ohms across each two of the three wires, and each wire to ground.
Run bike, check voltage (AC) across each two of three wired.
Report here, or check against the Stator Papers that can be found on GSR home page (GSR home page, not forumn).

Maybe stator and R/R were bad, and then replacing the stator when r/r was bad caused problem with your new stator.

DO find the Stator Papers.

Also determine if the R/R is well grounded thru the black wire.
Is probably connected to the solenoid mounting bolt... but that is on battery box which is not well grouinded to frame, so is a black/white wire from harnerss there also to provide a ground, But sometimes that is not good either. SOme of the test in the stator papers are to test for this. Check voltage (while running at rpm with r/r) between that battery box ground and battery negative, should be zero.
Or you can just do what most folks recommend anyway, and that is to add your own ground wire from there to battery negative.

Where, in general, are you located? Add that to your profile, and add your bike model to signature line. THen those appear in each of your posts and is then easier for folks to help you.

.

[Nessism]

If you plugged the stator and R/R into the factory harness to hook them up that's most likely your problem. The original stator and R/R may be perfectly okay too.

As mentioned, wire the stator directly into the R/R. Run a good ground from the R/R to the frame for battery. Don't ground through the battery box. For the power output from the R/R you can feed into your existing fusebox or add a fuse yourself and run a fresh line back to the battery. Using the OEM fusebox is a good idea but you are going to have some resistance in the circuit that needs to be cleaned up. You can check this by putting one probe of your volt meter on the + wire leaving the R/R and put the other on the battery + post. If you see more than .2 volts you got dirty connections that should be fixed.