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What R/R do you recommend, or are you using? Non-Shunt Types? (2015)

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    What R/R do you recommend, or are you using? Non-Shunt Types? (2015)

    My 30-year old stock R/R is on it's way out. After researching for a bit, there are quite a few replacements.
    Some of them no longer available, or not shipped internationally, etc.

    So I'd like to do a quick survey what regulators you recommend, you used as a replacement, if you're satisfied with it...

    I'm also not too sure whether trying to find a non-shunt regulator. Having a little bit of electronics background,
    I would prefer a series, or even a switching regulator, or something that doesn't simply short out the generator to regulate.

    The SH775 seems a good choice, does anyone have experience with it?
    #1: 1979 GS 550 EC "Red" – Very first Bike / Overhaul thread        New here? ☛ Read the Top 10 Newbie mistakes thread
    #2: 1978 GS 550 EC "Blue" – Can't make it a donor / "Rebuild" thread     Manuals (and much more): See Cliff's homepage here
    #3: 2014 Moto Guzzi V7 II Racer – One needs a runner while wrenching
    #4: 1980 Moto Guzzi V65C – Something to chill

    #2
    The SH775 is the current favorite on the forum and works fairly well.
    Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

    1981 GS550T - My First
    1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
    2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

    Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
    Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
    and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

    Comment


      #3
      I have a 775 fitted about 500 miles now and seems to be working well. It is SCR but being a series type is the main advantage. Pay close attention to sellers descriptions. Some are selling a MOSFET shunt unit with 'temperature protection' claiming it is a direct replacement for the SH775.
      97 R1100R
      Previous
      80 GS850G, 79 Z400B, 85 R100RT, 80 Z650D, 76 CB200

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by roeme View Post
        My 30-year old stock R/R is on it's way out. After researching for a bit, there are quite a few replacements.
        Some of them no longer available, or not shipped internationally, etc.

        So I'd like to do a quick survey what regulators you recommend, you used as a replacement, if you're satisfied with it...

        I'm also not too sure whether trying to find a non-shunt regulator. Having a little bit of electronics background,
        I would prefer a series, or even a switching regulator, or something that doesn't simply short out the generator to regulate.

        The SH775 seems a good choice, does anyone have experience with it?
        see GS stator

        Comment


          #5
          I used a Compu-fire 55402 which is a series 3 phase 40 amp RR as recommended by pasplayr. I replaced the RR at the same time I replaced the stator on my 85 GS1150. The Compu-fire was easy to install and has worked well. When you install any aftermarket RR get a series one and use high quality connectors like the ones from Weatherpak.
          Last edited by Guest; 10-14-2015, 10:33 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Brendan W View Post
            I have a 775 fitted about 500 miles now and seems to be working well. It is SCR but being a series type is the main advantage.(...)
            I'm a bit confused by this. What would be the alternative to an SCR? IGBT? (technically also a SCR *nitpick*)

            Generally, I'm under the impression that when it comes to rectifying and regulating voltage in motorcycles, many overlapping terms are used. I'm having a bit of a hard time telling them apart.

            In any case, I prefer dumping the power in the R/R, than in the stator, much easier to replace/service, so yay for series.

            Originally posted by posplayr View Post
            Thanks, I already waded through these, it's how I determined that most likely my regulator has failed (Voltages go noticeably higher than described in the quick test). I'm looking for a combined unit, not much use nor money saved by not replacing the 30yrs old rectifier.

            Also, the comparison of power dissipated in the stator between a series and a shunt was quite the eye-opener.

            Originally posted by jstewart View Post
            I used a Compu-fire 55402 which is a series 3 phase 40 amp RR. I replaced the RR at the same time I replaced the stator on my 85 GS 1150. The Compu-fire was easy to install and has worked well. When you install any aftermarket RR get a series one and use high quality connectors like the ones from Weatherpak.
            Yeah at some point I'm going to rewire her from scratch, using good connectors. You know by chance where to get them in bulk? (International, I'm in Europe)
            #1: 1979 GS 550 EC "Red" – Very first Bike / Overhaul thread        New here? ☛ Read the Top 10 Newbie mistakes thread
            #2: 1978 GS 550 EC "Blue" – Can't make it a donor / "Rebuild" thread     Manuals (and much more): See Cliff's homepage here
            #3: 2014 Moto Guzzi V7 II Racer – One needs a runner while wrenching
            #4: 1980 Moto Guzzi V65C – Something to chill

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by roeme View Post
              I'm a bit confused by this. What would be the alternative to an SCR? IGBT? (technically also a SCR *nitpick*)

              Generally, I'm under the impression that when it comes to rectifying and regulating voltage in motorcycles, many overlapping terms are used. I'm having a bit of a hard time telling them apart.
              While there may be overlapping terms, the population of Series R/R in existence is small. The Series R/R available are described in the link provided. The Series implementations generally fall into two categories: SCR or MOSFETs.
              MOSFETS are more efficient and do not dissipate as much power with higher low RPM voltage output. Compufire is the only MOSFET Series R/R.

              BTW, the Series is more like a switch; when too much power is delivered it just opens the switch. That is why the stator current drops so much.
              Last edited by posplayr; 10-13-2015, 03:48 PM.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                While there may be overlapping terms, the population of Series R/R in existence is small. The Series R/R available are described in the link provided. The Series implementations generally fall into two categories: SCR or MOSFETs.
                MOSFETS are more efficient and do not dissipate as much power with higher low RPM voltage output.
                Do I understand this correctly; they're using MOSFET's instead of thyristors in the rectifier? Or as as the regulating transistor in the regulator part? Or both?
                Edit: Yeah I did follow the link, thanks for your write-up. I'm currently leaning towards a SH775 or a compufire. Series in any case, I won't put anything else on her.

                Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                Compufire is the only MOSFET Series R/R.
                BTW Shindengen has one which has 3 MOSFET's, 3 Diodes. But they're shunting to regulate. Blech.

                Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                BTW, the Series is more like a switch; when too much power is delivered it just opens the switch. That is why the stator current drops so much.
                So the regulating transistor is either fully on, of fully off? With the hefty heatsinks, I always assumed it gets partially turned on/off and has to burn excess power. I might mix up some audio amplifier things in here, though I never thought the power dissipation of a transistor to increase that much during the transition from fully on to fully off (excluding inductive loads). But these things are way out of my electronics skills anyway...
                #1: 1979 GS 550 EC "Red" – Very first Bike / Overhaul thread        New here? ☛ Read the Top 10 Newbie mistakes thread
                #2: 1978 GS 550 EC "Blue" – Can't make it a donor / "Rebuild" thread     Manuals (and much more): See Cliff's homepage here
                #3: 2014 Moto Guzzi V7 II Racer – One needs a runner while wrenching
                #4: 1980 Moto Guzzi V65C – Something to chill

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by roeme View Post
                  Do I understand this correctly; they're using MOSFET's instead of thyristors in the rectifier? Or as as the regulating transistor in the regulator part? Or both?
                  Edit: Yeah I did follow the link, thanks for your write-up. I'm currently leaning towards a SH775 or a compufire. Series in any case, I won't put anything else on her.

                  I don't know who "they" is.
                  BTW Shindengen has one which has 3 MOSFET's, 3 Diodes. But they're shunting to regulate. Blech.



                  So the regulating transistor is either fully on, of fully off? With the hefty heatsinks, I always assumed it gets partially turned on/off and has to burn excess power. I might mix up some audio amplifier things in here, though I never thought the power dissipation of a transistor to increase that much during the transition from fully on to fully off (excluding inductive loads). But these things are way out of my electronics skills anyway...

                  Regulating transistor? You should reference schematic... There is power conducting transistor operating in a linear mode.

                  Series R/R's implement something called synchronous rectification and do not have full wave diode bridges. The MOSFET SHUNT R/R's probably could have just as easily implemented SERIES control but alas the world was stuck in SHUNT control mode. The Shindingen website shows a representative diagram of each of its various regulators. The MOSFET and diode mix is likely a safety consideration. MOSFETs tend to fail shorted when the gates blow.

                  Most of the power dissipation is when conducting and there is a forward drop on the transistors (SCR or MOSFET). There are no public schematics of the Compufire, but from my measurements it seems to use MOSFETs rather than SCR's(i.e. lower voltage drops).

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yeah at some point I'm going to rewire her from scratch, using good connectors. You know by chance where to get them in bulk? (International, I'm in Europe)[/QUOTE]

                    I have used two sources for cycle terminals & connectors both sealed and unsealed types. They both ship internationally.

                    1. Cycle Terminal www.cycleterminal.com . This company handles a wide variety of terminals and other wiring supplies and has excellent online instructions on how to properly crimp terminals. In sealed connectors they sell Amp, Yazaki, Furukawa, Dephi Weatherpak & Sumitomo.

                    2. Eastern Beaver www.easternbeaver.com . They also sell a wide variety of both sealed & unsealed connectors as well as standard and custom made wiring harnesses for various MC applications. This company has premade wiring harnesses for RR replacement applications as well as many other applications.

                    If you are going to make up your own wiring with proper connectors you need the correct crimping tools which both these company's sell. Good crimpers are not cheap. I use a Hozan P-706 crimping tool for sealed connector open barrel connectors. If it is your first time making up sealed connectors like the Delphi Weatherpak ones buy some extra terminals to practice with.
                    Last edited by Guest; 10-13-2015, 06:09 PM.

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