Help with multi-meter

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  • Guest

    #1

    Help with multi-meter

    Long story short, the bike wouldn't start yesterday after going to bike shop to order tires. I had to get a push to start it, then got home, shut it off, immediately tried to start it. No-go. So I bought a multi-meter to check things out.

    I have been searching through threads here and went to BikeCliff's web site. I managed to test the battery and determined it is not charging under load. The instructions for the meter are sparse, to say the least, so I need help on what settings I need it on to determine whether the stator is giving me the correct ohms. I was getting some reads using the "20K" setting on the ohms, but I don't think they're correct. It would start at 1.5, then drop.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Here is the meter.

  • Who Dat?
    Forum Mentor
    • Jun 2012
    • 461
    • On the edge.

    #2
    To get resistance readings on the stator windings, use the 200 Ohm setting, the one at the bottom, just above "COM". The stator MUST be disconnected from the R/R to do those tests.

    If you are going to check the diodes in the R/R, you will use the setting just to the right of the 200 Ohm setting. That little symbol is for "DIODE".

    When you get it all back together and want to measure the output of the stator (engine has to be running at 5000 RPM), use the AC Volts setting at the upper right. Hard to see what those numbers are, but select the one that will let you read up to about 100 volts.

    When you finally get around to measuring the output of the complete system, use the 20 DCV setting.
    If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space.

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    • posplayr
      Forum LongTimer
      GSResource Superstar
      Past Site Supporter
      • Dec 2007
      • 23673
      • Tucson Az

      #3
      Good new is that testing with an ohmmeter is virtually worthless. Do the Revised Phase B tests especially leg to ground. keep the meter on VAC.
      Instructions are also in the stator pages just ignore when it says "use your ohm meter".

      Comment

      • Guest

        #4
        Thanks! This info helps a lot. The readings at the top right are 500 and 200.

        Comment

        • Guest

          #5
          Originally posted by posplayr
          Good new is that testing with an ohmmeter is virtually worthless. Do the Revised Phase B tests especially leg to ground. keep the meter on VAC.
          Instructions are also in the stator pages just ignore when it says "use your ohm meter".
          It's weird. When I go to print off the instructions, I get a ghost jam after about 4 pages. It did it twice at the same location, so I'll have to drag the laptop out to the garage. It's just a PITA as the screen goes dark after a few seconds (work laptop.) I did do some connection cleaning and reseated with dielectric grease. I got battery readings that stayed consistent, and would go up a tad when I'd goose it. Last week, they'd show a voltage drop. However, nothing changed up at 5000 rpm. I noticed too that my side stand warning is disconnected. I have the wire and connection from the front of the bike, but I don't see where it would connect near the fuse box.

          I wanted to add that I put a new stator and regulator in the bike a few months back, so I'm leaning more to it just having bad connections. The stator is from Caltric, but I don't remember where I got the regulator, but it was Ebay for both.
          Last edited by Guest; 01-24-2016, 05:51 PM.

          Comment

          • Who Dat?
            Forum Mentor
            • Jun 2012
            • 461
            • On the edge.

            #6
            Caltric stator seems to be OK, but I would look into getting an SH775 R/R, unless that is what you already have.
            If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space.

            Comment

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