I need help with some wiring.

[Nessism]

Use the R/R from the 500 and wire it up as I stated. The R/R should have 5 wires: 3 stator input, power out, and ground.

[2Stroke]

Use the R/R from the 500 and wire it up as I stated. The R/R should have 5 wires: 3 stator input, power out, and ground.

That is great news.

I will make sure to wire it up correctly.


Best regards,

2Stroke

[2Stroke]

Got the RR soldered in and now I need to find out where the white/red and white/green wires from the main harness connect?

Thanks,

2Stoke

[Grimly]

Got the RR soldered in and now I need to find out where the white/red and white/green wires from the main harness connect?

Thanks,

2Stoke

I believe they're now redundant, being the old feed up to and back from the headlamp shell / light switch, which turned on the third stator leg to supply the whole system with extra power when the lights are on. You don't need them any more.
However - depending what spec your bike is and where you are - if you're required to have the headlamp on at all times, all is good. If you're using an old reg/rec and you run it without the lamps on, you might / will kill your stator sooner or later as it's getting a lot of power shunted back into it and will overheat.
This is why the newer series reg/recs are recommended - they neatly sidestep that issue entirely and give the stator a much easier (and longer) life.

[2Stroke]

Hey Grimly,

Thanks for the feed back. I am in the US but I do turn the headlight off. I am using a RR from a GS500E I think it was like 1999 model.

I may just has to start leaving my headlight on.

Thanks,

2Stroke

[alke46]

Nothing wrong with running with the headlight on. I even use my high beams during daylight hours for more visibility for the cagers who don't see us anyway, so they claim.

[2Stroke]

Reading Meter ???

Nothing wrong with running with the headlight on. I even use my high beams during daylight hours for more visibility for the cagers who don't see us anyway, so they claim.

I got the bike wired and running. I now want to check my charging system. Both the DC and AC reading are the same.

I am using an new AGM Battery and I do not know if I am reading my volt meter correctly but it seems to be way to high when the key is off.

Am I doing something wrong?

KeyOffBatteryReading.jpg

Thanks,

2Stroke

[Nessism]

Put the meter in DC mode, put the probes across the battery, then rev the engine up to 5000 rpm. You should see something in the range of 14.5 volts if the charging system is up to snuff. At minimum you will want 13.7 volts or so.

Also, put one of the volt meter probes on the power output solder joint from the R/R and the other on the battery + post and rev up the engine. If you are seeing more than .3 volts you have significant voltage loss in the power return wiring going back to the battery.

[Guest]

You might want to also check it with another meter, It should be more like 12.5-13V with the ignition off if you are sure it read the same on AC and DC. 30-33V is way high.

[2Stroke]

You might want to also check it with another meter, It should be more like 12.5-13V with the ignition off if you are sure it read the same on AC and DC. 30-33V is way high.

The meter I have it is really hard to tell the difference between 12.5 and 14 but It appears to be charging and no hot wires but a warm RR. As soon as I can get to my dads and use a better meter I will check it better.

Anyway I took my first ride in about 2.5 years. There is noting like wind and the sound of a bike.

Thank you all for the help you gave. You made my life a lot easier.

Next step is buying some K&Ns to replace the BOX that has been the source of a lot of frustration. Also putting in a stage III Dyno Jet Kit.


Thanks again and safe riding to you all,

2Stroke

[Eli69]

50 v AC range on the meter in the picture. try 50v DC?...