Completed single point ground

[glib]

Better, but you want to get the battery voltage over 14.0V preferably to at least 14.25V.

Did you clean your fuse box with Naval jelly and then spray with DeOxit?

Do the Revised Phase A to see if it is grounds are positive where the drops are.

The SSPB eliminates all this nonsense because you no longer rely on the harness for the charging connections between battery and R/R.

Revised Phase A results:

Positive side .17-.21
Negative side .03

[posplayr]

Revised Phase A results:

Positive side .17-.21
Negative side .03

The ground side is great, the plus side is a little high. Remember it is corrosion keeping that number where it is and that corrosion does not usually get better just worse, so 6 months from now it could be 0.5V. That is why I like to get it down to under 0.1V. Of course it depends on where you live. Here in Az not much rust or corrosion. On the coast it is much worse.

The voltage at the R/R output is going to reflect the internal regulation point (either 14.25V or 14.5V). You 13.75V peak plus the losses is .24V is 13.99V which means there is at least another 0.25V somewhere or your 13.75V has now risen to over 14.0V.

[posplayr]

I added a link to soldering recommendations to the top of this link. It is primarily concerned with electronics soldering, but it still generally applies to solder wire connections.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?237763-Recommended-Products-for-Preparing-Electrical-Connenctions&highlight=

In the various videos on SSPB installation I'm sure I showed some better techniques for splicing wires and soldering.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h51_t5gJvYU&feature=youtu.be

[glib]

Posplayr, where do you get your electrical terminals/connectors. Lowe's, OSH etc don't have much of a selection in spite of their size and they seem cheaply made--nothing like the stock connectors.

[glib]

Now that I'm an expert, (Uh, cough cough), I opened up my Blue E project. Wow. Already working on it.

[posplayr]

Posplayr, where do you get your electrical terminals/connectors. Lowe's, OSH etc don't have much of a selection in spite of their size and they seem cheaply made--nothing like the stock connectors.

Unless I'm desperate or just looking for ideas(I found a great solution for something I was working at Ace just last week in the hardware bins), I only buy what I need online. Digi key, Mouser, Amazon or Ebay.

[glib]

Blue E: After removing the extra harness from the R/R wiring, wiring the stator direct and installing the single point ground, I performed the revised Phase A test (quick test was good except 5000 rpm where it dropped off badly). The negative side test was .01 so that worked but the positive side bounced from .45 to .60.

My ES is down to .17 on the positive side so I swapped the fuse boxes to see if it would make the Blue E any better but it still tested .45 to .60. So if the fuse box isn't making a significant difference, where else do I look on the positive side for contact problems? BTW, I do like the SSPB idea and will probably get it for my ES at some point but I am going to sell the Blue E once it is safe to ride and it's already looking like I will break even at best. I would have done better to part it out but what fun is that!

[Vesmak]

How wrong i do if i do SPG in motor backside ground point? That point have allready strong cable to the start solenoid. I have my R/R bottom of the batterybox and that is not so good place to wiring.

[Brendan W]

How wrong i do if i do SPG in motor backside ground point? That point have allready strong cable to the start solenoid. I have my R/R bottom of the batterybox and that is not so good place to wiring.

In theory you can put the SPG anywhere you like. Is the ' motor backside ground point ' the point where the big cable comes from the crankcase to the battery negative ? I wouldn't put one there. My SPG is one of the starter relay mounting screws. The two harness return wires can reach there without modification. The r/r is close by, under the battery box so the return wire to the r/r can be kept short and the battery negative is close so that wire is short.

[Vesmak]

I mean that bolt. And that cable goes to the solenoid -. Dont know yet how air intake fit if i put some wires there.

[Brendan W]

The cable from that bolt should be going to the battery negative.

[posplayr]

In theory you can put the SPG anywhere you like. Is the ' motor backside ground point ' the point where the big cable comes from the crankcase to the battery negative ? I wouldn't put one there. My SPG is one of the starter relay mounting screws. The two harness return wires can reach there without modification. The r/r is close by, under the battery box so the return wire to the r/r can be kept short and the battery negative is close so that wire is short.

This is correct, I would only reemphasis the SPG can be anywhere as long as it is close (1 ft) to the R/R(-).

To Vesmak I would suggest trying your way and measure the voltage drops and then do it the recommended way and see what the difference is. Report back the answers. You would use Revised Phase A tests for voltage drops at 5000 RPM.

[posplayr]

Blue E: After removing the extra harness from the R/R wiring, wiring the stator direct and installing the single point ground, I performed the revised Phase A test (quick test was good except 5000 rpm where it dropped off badly). The negative side test was .01 so that worked but the positive side bounced from .45 to .60.

My ES is down to .17 on the positive side so I swapped the fuse boxes to see if it would make the Blue E any better but it still tested .45 to .60. So if the fuse box isn't making a significant difference, where else do I look on the positive side for contact problems? BTW, I do like the SSPB idea and will probably get it for my ES at some point but I am going to sell the Blue E once it is safe to ride and it's already looking like I will break even at best. I would have done better to part it out but what fun is that!

Excluding fusebox, there is a "T" wire crimp buried about 3" into where the R/R(+) red disappears into the harness. There is also typically a bullet connector in the wire from battery to fuse box.

[Vesmak]

Ok. Just installed tank. And battery. And testing start after all looking good. Nothing but solenoid say bzzz, when push start button. What i doing wrong...

How i need to do old R/R wiring bypass, is there my problem? There is now only tape over all color wires except red which i connect stright to new R/R brown (+). We tought that battery dont have much power and connect charger and starting, starter needle jump to the max current and stay there when i release start button, then like a flash i take charger plug off battery. All fuses still allright. Dont know, some kind of short circuit maybe..

Scary ****.

edit.
Old R/R color wiring is all together taped, not separately.

edit2.
I quote you posplayr from the another topic:
"Don't connect the starter solenoid to ground; it has been done before "
Theeere i maybe have big misconnection, my solenoid has + straight from battery and - is now starter and ground..... I fix it tomorrow, that ground needs to be under solenoid frame bolt.. shet..

[glib]

I leave the coaching to posplayr but I will tell you that I did make the mistake of connecting my single point ground wire (that belonged on the solenoid bracket) to one of the posts and I'll credit the Grace of God that it did not destroy the system. It DID light up that wire and burn off all the insulation the moment I hit the starter button. Just careless because I knew where it belonged and just got sloppy.