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Tackling my charging system.

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    Tackling my charging system.

    It all started last riding season when I discovered my stator was bad. So I swapped in the one from my parts bike which was testing good but I still had issues. My headlight wouldn't stay on and as my engine RPM's increased, my charging voltage decreased.

    I checked my positive lead voltage loss and had .47v. Soooo, I cut and soldered my 3 stator wires and the red positive lead. Also I bypassed the headlight loop, and cleaned up my fuse box. That alone brought me down to .17v positive volatage loss.

    Next I will tackle the single point ground. I plan to use a nearby frame bolt as the location for my SPG. From there a 14 awg wire to the battery, and a 16awg to the black/white wire of the R/R.

    Since I am using a frame mounting point can I skip the 3rd wire that is supposed to go from SPG to frame?? I assume that wouldn't be needed. Am I forgetting anything?

    #2
    The 16 awg goes to the battery and the 14 awg to the R/r.

    you never mentioned changing to a series r/r

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      #3
      Stock R/R for now, may upgrade later this year if funds allow. Also, thanks for the correction on the wire size. Do I need to keep the headlight loop in while using the stock shunt R/R?

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        #4
        Originally posted by GSinNH View Post
        Stock R/R for now, may upgrade later this year if funds allow. Also, thanks for the correction on the wire size. Do I need to keep the headlight loop in while using the stock shunt R/R?
        Assuming you can not turn off your headlamp do as recommended and remove the loop.

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          #5
          No I dont think I can turn it off. I always ride with my lights on anyway. Thanks!

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            #6
            Finally got back to this after rebuilding my front brakes. Ended up using 14 awg for both the battery and r/r because that's what I had kicking around. Well other than some red 18 awg. Any reason that shouldn't work? Getting .05v for my negative voltage drop now....woohoo. Still have about .2v on my positive side after cut and solder but my overall drop is still pretty reasonable.

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              #7
              Originally posted by GSinNH View Post
              Finally got back to this after rebuilding my front brakes. Ended up using 14 awg for both the battery and r/r because that's what I had kicking around. Well other than some red 18 awg. Any reason that shouldn't work? Getting .05v for my negative voltage drop now....woohoo. Still have about .2v on my positive side after cut and solder but my overall drop is still pretty reasonable.
              Sounds like you are losing about 0.25V total so you should be charging over 14V. Have you checked this at 5000 RPM? Have you cleaned out the fuse box using and treated it with some DeOxit?

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