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Okay, my stator tested bad. No ohms between three yellow wires. I replaced it and gasket today. Still not charging. Took a look at the regulator plugs, and they are black and slightly melted. Bad rectifier?
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It's pretty much either bad wiring of bad RR if you have a good stator.
Have you tested your RR?Current:
Z1300A5 Locomotive (swapped my Intruder for it), GS450 Cafe Project (might never finish it....), XT500 Commuter (I know - it's a Yamaha
)
Past:
VL1500 Intruder (swapped for Z1300), ZX9R Streetfighter (lets face it - too fast....), 1984 GSX750EF, 1984 GSX1100EF (AKA GS1150)
And a bunch of other crap Yamahas.... -
I vote bad electricalComment
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Black is from heat. Heat is from resistance. Resistance is caused by corrosion in the connectors. Clean or replace those connectors or the expensive new parts will fail right away.
Life is too short to ride an L.Comment
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Ordered new rectifier, it will be here Friday. It comes with a plug and connector for harness side as well.Comment
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Originally posted by maddman View PostOkay, my stator tested bad. No ohms between three yellow wires.
Explain what this means.Comment
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Probably means his meter can't register as low as .8 ohms wire to wire .Originally posted by JayWB View Post
Hopefully he noticed all the clamoring for the SH-775 when he bought his new r/r.1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben FranklinComment
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My multimeter reads resistance just fine. I use it everyday at work, so don't just assume. It means there was no resistance between the three stator wires. Therefore, stator was bad.Comment
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Have you checked the stator output, open cct betwen phases at 5000 rpm. Looking for 80 volts ac ideally.97 R1100R
Previous
80 GS850G, 79 Z400B, 85 R100RT, 80 Z650D, 76 CB200Comment
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Yes. Nothing on the old one. Do not have my meter here. It's at work in my tool box.Comment
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No resistance means zero ohms. There should be very close to zero ohms resistance between the legs of the stator.Originally posted by maddman View Post
If you're saying that your stator read zero ohms from leg to leg, and that was your justification for replacing it, you've made a mistake.Comment
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Besides checking the resistance and AC output voltage between the three output wires did you check each wire to see if they were shorted to ground? More then likely going by your description of melted connectors. All connections must be clean or replaced to insure no resistance which causes heat as mentioned before and cause any of the new components to fail quickly. After insuring all connections are clean I run a ground directly from the R/R to the battery to insure a good path to ground for the R/R.Last edited by gs11ezrydr; 08-21-2016, 08:45 PM.sigpic 82 gs1100ez 1168 Wiseco,Web .348 Cams,Falicon Sprockets,Star Racing Ported Head,1mm o/s Stainless Valves,APE Springs,Bronze Guides,etc.APE Billet Tensioner,36CV Carbs,Stage 3 Dynojet,Plenum w/K&N filter,Trued,Welded,Balanced,Crank w/Katana rods & Billet left end, FBG backcut trans, VHR HD Clutch basket,APE nut,VHR High volume oil pump gears,1150 Oil cooler,V&H Megaphone header w/Competition baffle,Dyna S,Coils,Wires,etc.Other misc.mods.Comment
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Not according to the stator papers. Less than .5 ohms=bad stator. And as you can plainly see, its definitely a crispy critter....Last edited by Guest; 08-22-2016, 08:05 PM.Comment
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Just for the sake of curiosity, is there any way to bypass the r/r with diodes in an emergency? If only for a short time? If so, what size diodes should one keep on hand? After all, all a regulator does in convert Ac to Dc, and tone it down yes? Diode does the same thing.Comment
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Sure if you want to burn out your electronics with an unregulated supply. It is called a 3 phase full wave rectifier. Look it up on the web.Comment
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