How Best to Build out a Side Stand Light Circuit

[cowboyup3371]

As written in my Blue Ridge parkway thread, I wrecked on Sunday due to my failure to pull up the side stand after stopping on the side of the road at night to adjust the headlight. Consequently, I want to install a side stand light to help me remember to check it during the night hours especially. So after doing some research, I went to Parts Express today and explained what I wanted to do. After about 20 minutes and $7, I came home with 3 flashing red LEDs, a package of resistors, and two single pole double throw switches. I also went back to the garage and retrieved some wire and Charmayne's battery to build and test the idea that I could do this.

The switch



The resistor



The red LED



The activated circuit



I realize I'll need to solder the wires to the light bulb and resistor while also attaching terminals to the ends connecting to the switch. However, I'm not completely sure that I'm right in my thinking of actually mounting the bulb and resistor to the bike.

In my mind, the simplest way is to solder the resistor to the wire than cover it up with some heat shrink. I could then cut a hole in say the tachometer face plate for the bulb to sit in as this puts it into easy eye view. However, I was also thinking I should mount the resistor and bulb on a separate circuit board that could then be placed in a covered housing and mounted to the handlebars.

Which would be the best way to accomplish that part of this in your opinion?

[Dogma]

The text from my post in the other thread:

Solder the resistor directly to the LED, then epoxy them both to whatever your mounting them to. The epoxy will insulate them electrically and also help protect them from vibration, which will eventually break the leads on those components. But you can get panel-mount LEDs that should be weatherproof (as well as switches). Check out places like SparkFun and Adafruit for parts in hobbyist oriented quantities and maybe some instruction too. My preference would be to not put a hole in the tach, but that's my preference. Don't forget to add a fuse on the positive side, so when something goes wrong, it doesn't hurt the rest of your electrics, start a fire, etc..

Probably the best advice I can give is to tell you to ignore my advice and consult with Steve. But I get the motivation to take it as far as you can first. You're getting something done, and that's more than I can say right now.

[tkent02]

That looks so hard compared to adding a block of rubber to the side stand to flip it up if you forget like Honda does.

[cowboyup3371]

Thanks Dale, I'll take a look at them.

That looks so hard compared to adding a block of rubber to the side stand to flip it up if you forget like Honda does.

Tom, what bike was this on so I can go take a look at their setup?

[Guest]

Thanks Dale, I'll take a look at them.



Tom, what bike was this on so I can go take a look at their setup?

I am not tom, but ....lots of older hondas. I don't know if they still do it, but I bought rubber piece for the hawk
old goldwings
400 four
360
Hawk GT......

[cowboyup3371]

Is number 5 what you are referring to?

[tkent02]

Yes, that's the one. I put one made out of old tire rubber on one bike a long time ago, just a strip of rubber and a couple hose clamps. Went into a left turn to test it out and the stand just swings back harmlessly. It has to stick down below the end of the stand itself a half inch or so, to make sure the rubber hits first and flips it up before the metal part touches the ground...

Then I realized the error of my thinking and just started leaving it down and dragging it all the time, it doesn't really bother me much anymore. I suppose if the first turn you did was a HARD left hander it might surprise you.

But the rubber thing is probably the best thing Honda ever did.

[Gorminrider]

In case you haven't already done this...one thing occurs to mention...be sure to put your switch on the " - " side...the "ground" side. (This is also how the oil pressure and neutral sensors work)

So, if the switchshorts, the light will stay on versus being off which would fool you. and also save a fuse perhaps...

[dorkburger]

The blinking light is definitely a good idea. My bike has the side stand light and it ocassionally gets overlooked due to the infamous Suzuki black box illuminating other lights needlessly.

Regarding the switch- I don't think those switches like you have are weather resistant. I was thinking a weather resistant momentary switch may work ok.

My uncles Nighthawk 650 had the rubber thingy on the sidestand.

[posplayr]

The text from my post in the other thread:

Almost all standard incandescent bulbs now have LED replacements with built in resistors. There are plenty of panel mount as well. There is also no need to put a fuse inline with the light if you power it from a fused source (is that kind of redundant).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-pcs-8mm-red-blue-green-yellow-white-12V-LED-dash-indicator-lights-US-SELLER-/322069383963

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-T10-White-LED-with-sockets-Instrument-Panel-Dash-Light-Bulb-194-168-/371400287935

I noticed you wanted it to flash; I have made those by substituting teh LED out using the same bulb socket.

[Steve]

THIS ONE will require a resistor.

THIS ONE also requires a resistor, but might be a bit brighter.

Similar products are probably available that won't require a resistor, but I am headed for bed.

.

[cowboyup3371]

Thanks all.

I bought the first LED you showed Steve on Wednesday when I went over there hence what is in the first post.

My main question now though is what is the best way to mount them - on their own circuit board or tied directly together in line? I like the idea of a separate circuit board as in my head it will be easier to make/find a case for them if I can't mount it within either gauge directly.

[sam000lee]

Almost all standard incandescent bulbs now have LED replacements with built in resistors. There are plenty of panel mount as well. There is also no need to put a fuse inline with the light if you power it from a fused source (is that kind of redundant).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-pcs-8mm-red-blue-green-yellow-white-12V-LED-dash-indicator-lights-US-SELLER-/322069383963

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-T10-White-LED-with-sockets-Instrument-Panel-Dash-Light-Bulb-194-168-/371400287935

I noticed you wanted it to flash; I have made those by substituting teh LED out using the same bulb socket.

Posplayr - you just saved me about $30 on the LED's from DCC - Thanks!

[Steve]

My main question now though is what is the best way to mount them - on their own circuit board or tied directly together in line?

Why make it harder than necessary?

Think "lipstick tube". Drill a hole in the end, stick the LED in there, with its wires, seal it up. Zip-tie it to a cable so it's pointing into your line of sight.

Slightly more involved: a tab that has two holes in it. One is for the LED, the other is for the mounting location. One of the handlebar mounting bolts could work. Whatever will put it into your line of sight. The drawback of a simple tab is the lack of protection on the back side of the LED, so you will have to get creative there.

.

[salty_monk]

Can't you just connect this into the coil feed or starter feed & kill the engine (or stop it from starting) whilst it's down.

I know some people like to leave their bikes running on the sidestand but that makes no sense to me... use the centrestand instead if you have to, pretty hard to forget to take that up....