Clueless electrical member testing R/R diode

[Carter Turk]

If V @ 2.5K RPM is higher than V @ 5K RPM it usually means the connections are dirty.

Do do you have a bad stator or bad connections?

The volts were lower at 2.5K

I ordered an electrosport stator, and a Honda shunt ("the horror"), but was curious what the electrical gurus have to say about this rotor chip.

[posplayr]

it looks damaged

[Carter Turk]

it looks damaged

Thanks for pointing out that indeed one of the magnets is damaged.

Will it still function is the question, maybe no one can answer, until I do the proper tests.

Maybe the other poster with no photo has similar damage?

Still waiting on new stator.

[posplayr]

Thanks for pointing out that indeed one of the magnets is damaged.

Will it still function is the question, maybe no one can answer, until I do the proper tests.

Maybe the other poster with no photo has similar damage?

Still waiting on new stator.

With a set of precise measurements you might have been able to deduce whether anything was still serviceable. At this point you seem committed to just replacing everything.

[Carter Turk]

With a set of precise measurements you might have been able to deduce whether anything was still serviceable. At this point you seem committed to just replacing everything.

I'm not anywhere near as precise as you, hence all the electrical postings on my part.
Hopefully I can do the tests when the bike starts from a stand still.

[posplayr]

I'm not anywhere near as precise as you, hence all the electrical postings on my part.
Hopefully I can do the tests when the bike starts from a stand still.

If the leg to ground tests passed with flying colors (at 5K RPM), on a brand new stator with no evidence of failure, but with reduced output (less than 80V at 5K RPM) then the rotor is probably compromised(not the stator).

This is conjecture, becuase I don't know the history, but it looks like that rotor was operating under severe conditions

[Carter Turk]

If the leg to ground tests passed with flying colors (at 5K RPM), on a brand new stator with no evidence of failure, but with reduced output (less than 80V at 5K RPM) then the rotor is probably compromised(not the stator).

This is conjecture, becuase I don't know the history, but it looks like that rotor was operating under severe conditions

To be clear, the incomplete test #'s I posted recently were on a different bike, w/o the damaged rotor in picture. The bike I did the test on had a new Caltric stator (with questionable protection on the windings), with a questionable stock R/R. The R/R connections were soldered and a single point ground on the frame was used. The + and - were connected directly to the battery. The rotor was intact on this bike, aside from helicoils from previous S/C failures. I appreciate all the knowledge I don't have in understanding the persistent electrical issues I have with this bike.

[posplayr]

To be clear, the incomplete test #'s I posted recently were on a different bike, w/o the damaged rotor in picture. The bike I did the test on had a new Caltric stator (with questionable protection on the windings), with a questionable stock R/R. The R/R connections were soldered and a single point ground on the frame was used. The + and - were connected directly to the battery. The rotor was intact on this bike, aside from helicoils from previous S/C failures. I appreciate all the knowledge I don't have in understanding the persistent electrical issues I have with this bike.

Saying "I don't know" is the greatest expression of "self awareness" as it represents the threshold to learning.

[850 Combat]

I never test the diodes. I've only tested the stator voltage, stator ohms, and if that is good (and it always has been), I go to the battery voltage when running. If it won't get a charged battery to around 14 volts, it needs a different one. I'm not saying that the other tests don't have value, but I mostly want to see if the R/R is working, and I'm less concerned about why.

By the way, the '78 1000E I gave to my nephew just had a R/R failure with an old Shindengen R/R, presumably from Duane. It was there when I bought the bike from Phaseman. It was putting out like 17 volts. I've used a bunch of old Gold Wing and Silver Wing regulators, with no failures until this (technically not mine any more, but still in my family).

[posplayr]

I never test the diodes. I've only tested the stator voltage, stator ohms, and if that is good (and it always has been), I go to the battery voltage when running. If it won't get a charged battery to around 14 volts, it needs a different one. I'm not saying that the other tests don't have value, but I mostly want to see if the R/R is working, and I'm less concerned about why.

By the way, the '78 1000E I gave to my nephew just had a R/R failure with an old Shindengen R/R, presumably from Duane. It was there when I bought the bike from Phaseman. It was putting out like 17 volts. I've used a bunch of old Gold Wing and Silver Wing regulators, with no failures until this (technically not mine any more, but still in my family).

I would say you have been lucky in that you have very few stator failures, which is why you have had success with SHUNT R/Rs.

The ohm meters tests are truly worthless in assessing whether a stator is good, although they can establish where a stator is bad. So you never have bad stators which is what I believe you have described before.

[duaneage]

The sense connection probably came off or had a weak connection, that's the reason it went to 17.

[posplayr]

The sense connection probably came off or had a weak connection, that's the reason it went to 17.

While it is possible, you can't claim that as truth unless you think that Honda R/R's CAN'T fail.

[duaneage]

Whatever .......................

438 sold so far and I still offer lifetime warranty

[Blue Falcon]

Whatever .......................

438 sold so far and I still offer lifetime warranty

still sell em?

[duaneage]

Sold 2 this week.
Pm me if interested