Alternative to the SH775 RR

[1948man]

"#1: Ground R/R(-) to case and side plate

• #2: The shortest wire to a frame bolt
• #3: The shortest wire to the Battery (-)
• #4: Connects to the (B/W) harness negative ring lugs (typically the one attached at the solenoid mounting bolt). You can leave the other harness ground ring lug (B/W) where it normally is picking up the battery box ground"……………………………."

I'm not sure on wire #4. It's not the heavy cable on the solenoid neg is it? Isn't that for the starter? That's the only wire hooked up to the post opposite the post where the battery positive mates with the solenoid. There are 2 other smaller gauge B/W wires close. The one on the right side of the connector pictured in post 35 of this thread and one that is presently fitted to the negative battery terminal. I'm thinking it's the one fitted to the battery negative post. Am I on the right track. Should I just connect both of the smaller ones to the single point ground? I'm finally getting around to actually working on this.

[1948man]

Yes I would say the solid red is the one going to the"T" which then splits to the fuse box and ignition switch looking at the diagram you are correct I do not see a five wire connector however the black/white is usually a ground wire. The remaining 3 wires would go to the stator.

Thank you sir, I just wanted a little reassurance. I'm not real confident in my electrical analyses.

[fastbysuzuki]

Yes I would say the solid red is the one going to the"T" which then splits to the fuse box and ignition switch looking at the diagram you are correct I do not see a five wire connector however the black/white is usually a ground wire. The remaining 3 wires would go to the stator.

[1948man]

20170517_094701.jpg

Is the red wire on the left side of the 5-wire connector the one I'm looking for to receive the positive from the R/R? This connector has been left unused by a previous owner (aftermarket R/R wired direct). I can't find a 5-wire connector like that in the wiring diagram (I'm probably reading it wrong) but I do see a connector like that, except without the b/w ground wire, which hooks up the the R/R in the diagram. The respective wire colors match up perfectly except the diagram doesn't show the 5th b/w ground wire on the extreme right side of the pictured connector. The wires from this connector run up to what I assume is referred to as the "T" and then I'm thinking 3 wires run down to connect to the stator wires in the original configuration.

[1948man]

Thanks to all for the help.

[Nessism]

Kawasaki KZ bikes send the R/R power output directly back to the battery on at least some bikes. My 750 routs power to the starter solenoid and then it jumpers back to the battery. It wouldn't be a bad idea to put a fuse in line I suppose.

[posplayr]

I'm glad I asked before I started snipping and attaching. Thanks for the helpful replies and , yes, it is the 1100g. Due to other life stuff I won't get to this until Tuesday but will know what to avoid. I could have sworn I read somewhere you could go direct to the battery if you put a 25 or 30 amp fuse in between.

Why you connect to the harness red and do not go straight to the battery.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?152769-GS-Charging-System-Health&p=1138898#post1138898

[1948man]

I'm glad I asked before I started snipping and attaching. Thanks for the helpful replies and , yes, it is the 1100g. Due to other life stuff I won't get to this until Tuesday but will know what to avoid. I could have sworn I read somewhere you could go direct to the battery if you put a 25 or 30 amp fuse in between.

[fastbysuzuki]

If you find where the Oem rectifier connected into the bikes harness (the red wire) you use both the brown wires from the triumph harness twisted together and soldered into that connection then you do not require any extra fuses as you will then be using the stock configuration which is to be recommended.

[Steve]

Thanks for the help. The R/R I am replacing is not OEM and it has a red wire that doesn't use the harness but just goes (unfused, I might add) straight to the battery positive. I'll have to poke around and see if I can find the original point the OEM R/R would have been connected to. Since I have a brown wire that divides into 2, I guess I could connect one to the battery positive (fused) and one to the point from the harness the original OEM power wire hooked up to. I'm working today so won't be able to ponder it for a while. Thanks again for your help.

NO, do not do that. Find the original wire. If this is for the 1100G in your signature, the wire will be on the left side, partially hidden by the frame rail, between the airbox and the battery. There is a large sleeve that covers a couple electrical connectors, it will be in there.

First of all, there should ALWAYS be a fuse between the battery and any electrical device. The R/R is an electrical device. If it should happen to short out, there is a direct path for some serious current from the battery. When that heavy current goes through the wire, it will get VERY hot, to the point of melting insulation and possibly even setting the bike on fire. Suzuki had a decent idea for current routing to reduce the load on the MAIN fuse by placing the R/R connection where they did. Bypassing that by connecting straight to the battery puts extra loads on the fuse box. One way around that is to replace the fuse box and/or rewire the bike between the battery, ignition key and fuse box, but that is a task that few of us are willing to do.

.

[1948man]

Thanks for the help. The R/R I am replacing is not OEM and it has a red wire that doesn't use the harness but just goes (unfused, I might add) straight to the battery positive. I'll have to poke around and see if I can find the original point the OEM R/R would have been connected to. Since I have a brown wire that divides into 2, I guess I could connect one to the battery positive (fused) and one to the point from the harness the original OEM power wire hooked up to. I'm working today so won't be able to ponder it for a while. Thanks again for your help.

[fastbysuzuki]

This is the way that I installed it.
Cut off the two small plugs then carefully split the harness so you have one plug with two brown and two black wires twist the Browns together likewise with the blacks so you now have a plug with one brown and one black so to speak.
The brown connects to the red wire in the bikes harness where the original rectifier/regulator red connected to, know as the T connection on various posts on here.
The black connects to the single point ground see many posts on here or just use the search facility for information.
The three blacks on the other plug connect to the three wires that come from the stator it does not matter which wire connects to which ( there is no polarity)
All joints where twisted together soldered and shrink wrapped.
The two left over wires in the bikes harness can be taped up and tucked away as they were for the handle bar loop and are not in use now.

[1948man]

I received the T2500676 Triumph wiring harness. It has 2 groups of wires, each having a plug on each end. One group has 3 wires which, I guess obviously mate up with stator wires. I will cut the plug off the stator end and solder the wires to the wires coming from the stator. The other group has 2 wires, a black and a brown. Is the black ground and the brown power? Each of these wires divides into 2 smaller wires of the same colors at the end plug. I guess I just cut the plug off and leave myself 1 black wire and one brown wire which will be hooked up as per recommendations here. I.E. , brown wire thru a 30 amp fuse to positive battery post and black wire per "Single Point Ground" instructions. Does this sound right?

[bobgroger]

A search should reveal all. I have used SH775s on all my GS bikes, it just works, There is the SH847 available, but it is overkill for the stator output....

[Carter Turk]

who should?

Hmm, someone with more electrical experience maybe, if they're willing to share their knowledge.