77 gs550 overcharging?

[Hell or high water]

The original regulator and rectifier has been replaced with a combination unit whic is the Polaris type r/r so no the original stuff is gone. I'll verify the wiring tonight but I'm 99 percent certain the three generator legs go to the combination r/r. Then the r/r is directly connected to the battery, positive and negative to ensure proper grounding. It sounds like everyone is pointing to the stator, I checked it according to the stator pages on bikeclifs website and it checked out but it seems that's not nessicerily deffinitive? At this point I'm gonna replace the stator with a oem one from rmstator and try to find a genuine sh775 which seems to be kinda difficult, and a new lead acid battery. Maybe the gels aren't any good? If someone has time please show me where to find a genuine one?

[Hell or high water]

I rewiried the whole bike from scratch, new connectors and switches. Maybe I have something wired wrong, I'll verify tonight and update.

[sam000lee]

Only 3 parts and 6 wires should be involved if you have a single point ground set up, or you could have the R/R(-) going directly to the Bat(-) like you mentioned (whoops forgot to put in fuse between R/R and Bat(+)):



Here is the correct R/R: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-13-POLA...FZDb4p&vxp=mtr

Verify stator is good and battery isn't fried.

[Guest]

That R/R Should be powered through the original power wire and then it will be fused. It will work the way you show but it is not recommended. posplayr could explain better than I ever can.

[Rijko]

That R/R Should be powered through the original power wire and then it will be fused. It will work the way you show but it is not recommended. posplayr could explain better than I ever can.

You mean the fuse that should be on the positive terminal ?
Sam did say that it's not in the drawing.
Pic is from the CompuFire site.

CompuFire.jpg

[Guest]

Yes it should be fused on the positive side except using a 40A fuse on the Compu-Fire schematic would be the same as direct wiring given the wire size used on the Suzuki. A lot of damage could happen before a fuse of that size would blow. A25A fuse is more realistic. The Compu-Fire is capable of handling a lot more amperage then the system is designed for so a GS can't produce that type of power. Apparently some different bikes are wired that way but I imagine the Compu-Fire drawing is just a general schematic to show necessary power, ground and stator wire hook up. Jim explained that with the Suzuki wiring, doing it that way could result in bad results in some circumstances. I ran mine that way for a while and changed it back after reading his posts. It was a long time ago so you need to talk to Jim for the details.

[posplayr]

Yes it should be fused on the positive side except using a 40A fuse on the Compu-Fire schematic would be the same as direct wiring given the wire size used on the Suzuki. A lot of damage could happen before a fuse of that size would blow. A25A fuse is more realistic. The Compu-Fire is capable of handling a lot more amperage then the system is designed for so a GS can't produce that type of power. Apparently some different bikes are wired that way but I imagine the Compu-Fire drawing is just a general schematic to show necessary power, ground and stator wire hook up. Jim explained that with the Suzuki wiring, doing it that way could result in bad results in some circumstances. I ran mine that way for a while and changed it back after reading his posts. It was a long time ago so you need to talk to Jim for the details.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?152769-GS-Charging-System-Health&p=1138898#post1138898

[Hell or high water]

I wired my bike like the popular way according to your thread posplayr, as I read your post my understanding is that if you split after the regulator output you are then wiring the r/r parallel to the run circuit causing current drop on the charging side and the run circuit side. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Because in parallel circuits current drops but voltage is constant... if I remember right. Will this cause an increased demand on the output of the regulator if say I run my lights on? Because the current is less? Sorry I'm just trying to understand the best I can. Thanks for all your guys help so far!

[tom203]

Read that link that posplayr posted.. it explains the advantage of wiring positive from r/r into original harness connection.

[posplayr]

I wired my bike like the popular way according to your thread posplayr, as I read your post my understanding is that if you split after the regulator output you are then wiring the r/r parallel to the run circuit causing current drop on the charging side and the run circuit side. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Because in parallel circuits current drops but voltage is constant... if I remember right. Will this cause an increased demand on the output of the regulator if say I run my lights on? Because the current is less? Sorry I'm just trying to understand the best I can. Thanks for all your guys help so far!

It has to do with how much current runs through the fuse box. the "popular" way requires a higher fuse which means less protection when a short really occurs. Also the popular way the bike will quite instantly oif the main fuse ever blows (vibration or otherwise).

Nothing to do with stressing the R/R.

[Hell or high water]

Ah I see thanks for explaining that, I'll rewire it the original way to see if it makes a difference. I bought the r/r that was in the link for a genuine sh775. I verified the print on the back of the unit. So I'm going to replace the stator as well... I was looking at the one rmstator offers on their site. Any comments or suggestions on replacement stator?

[posplayr]

Get a stator with heavy epoxy ; Electrosprt are generally heavy at least for the big bikes. Look at the pictures for your model.

[Hell or high water]

So we addressed the stator and r/r issues, are there any opinions or suggestions on battery types? I've been useing gel type but I recently read they require smaller recharging current. Would it be safer to use an agm battery or a lead acid battery? Thanks again guys!

[Hell or high water]

Ok so I verified my wiring job on the bike. Looking at the original wiring diagram one leg of the stator makes a loop through the light switch... I disregarded this in my loom and connected the three stator wires directly to the r/r. Could this be a potential problem? Surely that small run of wire would not create enough resistance to affect anything right? Otherwise I rewired the output of the regulator to both the battery and the main power to the switch like posplayr suggested. While I have the loom opened up I wanted to know if I need to rewire the weird stator loop through the switch.

[Burque73]

So we addressed the stator and r/r issues, are there any opinions or suggestions on battery types? I've been useing gel type but I recently read they require smaller recharging current. Would it be safer to use an agm battery or a lead acid battery? Thanks again guys!

The lead acid battery will eventually boil over spewing corrosive yuk on your frame and swingarm. AGM are great batteries. Never had a gel battery so can't comment there.