Truck-Lite 27270c Daytime Running Light

[Reddog78]

Installed a Truck-Lite headlight on my 78 GS750. As others have noted, it's a great nighttime light. Lower amp draw is another plus.

However, I've experienced more cars pulling out in front of me compared to before. I'm riding with low beam on. Previously rode with my 65 watt H4 bulb on high beam. Have read reviews indicating the LED headlight is not as visible during the day. Don't want to ride with my high beam on because its so much brighter than the former halogen bulb.

Headlight level is adjusted for proper nighttime high beam, thus I don't want to tilt the headlight up to raise the low beam cutoff to driver's eye level.

Is there a way to reduce high beam output? Plug and play module? I'm thinking of the 1st generation DRL's on cars which ran high beams at 60-40% output. The Truck-Lite can handle 12 to 24 volts, but can the LED handle reduced voltage?

[Steve]

In day time, I would say "screw it, I WANT THEM TO SEE ME". The brightness of the high beam is not that bad during day time, so use it.

An alternative would be to mount some LED running lights on the crash bars. You can get some that are pretty much ornamental or get some that will put out some useable light. My wife's bike has some that are rather ornamental VERY low current drain, but they provide a triangle of light to those ahead of you. That triangle gives people something to help determine distance and closing rate that is easier to judge than just a single point of light (headlight).

With the newer LED technology that is available, you can get some small-ish cubes that put out some VERY noticeable light ahead of you. Superbright LEDs has a few. They are listes as "work lights" and might not be DOT rated, if that matters for your state's inspection (if any). Click HERE to see them. Wingsconsin has a couple on his bike. My wife has seen them and wants some for hers.

Those "1st generation DRLs on cars" are still in use. I have some on my van (it's a 2005, but that model went through 2010). They did sort of reduce the voltage to the lights, but they did it with a bunch of relays that would re-route power to the high beams and put them in series, rather than parallel, giving them each half of the voltage available. I don't know how other manufacturers handle lower input voltages, but Truck-Lite just regulates the input to what the light needs, which means that there is a minimum input voltage. Anything above that will be regulated down to that point to maintain constant brightness of the output. In other words, you <might> be able to supply lower voltage, but you won't get a dimmer light for your desired effect.

I also have a Truck-Lite in my bike. In previous bikes (and my current Goldwing), I have had a headlight modulator. Because of the way they work, and the way the Truck-Lite works, the light would not modulate (dim/bright), it would flash, which is specifically not legal. I have recently learned that Kisan Electronics (maker of all my modulators) has come up with an LED-compatible modulator. I would like to contact them to see if they have a video of it working. If not, I would see how generous their return policy is, just in case it does not work.

Using a headlight modulator irritates a few people, but usually when it is not used courteously. In my years of using them, I can't tell you how many times I have seen people stop at a side road, then start to pull out in front of me, suddenly "see" me and STOP. There are probably just about as many that I didn't see. I can only remember ONE instance where the use of the modulator almost caused an accident, but that had more to do with an impatient driver than the modulator use.

Don't reduce your light output, ADD MORE LIGHTS.

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[Guest]

Driving around doing errands today I noticed a Chrysler sports sedan that was using its LED turn signals as daytime running lights. The running lights & turn signals were the same brightness. Made for extremely noticeable running lights.


This might be an optimal solution. Easy enough to switch to LED turn signals. But does anybody sell a module/controller that allows the turn signals to operate at full output unless you are using the turn signal?


And are there any legal issues?

[Steve]

When I get home, I'll have to post a video of my bike. It's a little different than most GSes, because it has an aftermarket fairing. I have found some clear lenses for the turn signals, as well as some running light/turn signal modules that do exactly what you are describing.

Headed home now, will add to this in a bit.

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[Steve]

OK, here is your video:

Sorry about the bright light when I turned the bike on. I adjusted the light level on the camera so you could see what is happening.

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[Guest]

Interesting.


The turn signal & daytime running light on the Chrysler sports sedan were both yellow.


CustomLED has the Blinker Genie.
It works by doing the opposite of what you expect. The turn signal light is always on & it turns off when it get power from the flasher. This will cause the front & back turn signals to be out of sync.

https://www.customled.com/products/blinker-genie

Any thoughts on white vs. yellow running lights?

[Reddog78]

Steve's LED clear blinker set up looks interesting. Would seem to be legal since normal blinker function is maintained.

In the interim, I'll take Steve's advice and turn on the high beam. Could aim it a little lower during the day and tilt it up at night.

[Steve]

The turn signal & daytime running light on the Chrysler sports sedan were both yellow.

I have noticed a few, but very few, DRLs (Daytime Running Lights) that are not white. Couldn't tell you what cars they were on, but I have seen them.

Any thoughts on white vs. yellow running lights?

Again, look at all the traffic that is coming toward you. Might be about half of them have DRLs and about 99% of them are white. The source of the DRL varies considerably. Some of the very early ones were simply the high beams, but no marker lights on the sides or tail lights on the rear. A variation of that is the 'low-power' high beams that maintains the focus of the high beam, but at reduced intensity. Newer vehicles are using LEDs. They might be part of the turn signal assembly or a different light entirely. BMW cars have their 'angel eye' system with halos in the headlights. Some of these LED systems will turn OFF that side when the turn signal is activated, especially if it is the same light. If the DRL is far enough away from the signal, it might not be turned off. Virtually all of the DRLs are white, but there are those few exceptions, like the one you saw.

In the interim, I'll take Steve's advice and turn on the high beam. Could aim it a little lower during the day and tilt it up at night.

All you are going to accomplish by doing that is wearing out the mounts. Seriously, during the day, the high beam will not be too bright. If you want to show a little consideration, try this: if you stop behind somebody at a traffic light, switch to LOW beam. When you start moving again, switch to HIGH beam. An alternative would be to simply turn your headlight away from the mirror in front of you. If anyone complains about your use of high beam, your reply should be "I'm sorry it bothered you, but THANK YOU for seeing me."

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[Guest]

The Blinker Genie is $25. Its pretty easy to wire up & fits in the headlight bucket.


Do you have a link to the one that switches from white to yellow?


There are a few bike LED headlights that have built in DRL, but I don?t know how good they are.

[Steve]

If price is your objective, stick with the Blinker Genie.

The hardest part of using the white/yellow ones like I have would be to find clear lenses. I got lucky. The lenses in my fairing are the same as those used in some Hondas, and they are available in clear. Yes, you could use the white/yellow light modules behind yellow lenses, but you lose some of the effect. It would basically do what the Blinker Genie does.

The light modules I got are from Custom Dynamics. Make sure you are sitting down when you see the price, they are REALLY proud of their products. (And for a good reason.)

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[Reddog78]

Steve, thanks for the sage advice. High beams with courtesy sounds like the way to proceed.

Sent an e-mail to the Truck-Lite folks. They indicated their light cannot run on reduced voltage. Said it would cause the LED to either strobe or not work at all. So DRL concept for the Truck-Lite is a no go.

[Steve]

High beams with courtesy sounds like the way to proceed.

That is my standard operating procedure on the Wing. It has a headlight modulator, and it only works on high beam and when the photocell determines there is enough ambient light.
The photocell keeps the modulator from operating at night, so you have full use of your high beams without seeing them 'flash' (modulate).

With the modulator, the 'courtesy' part also extends to approaching a 4-way stop. I do not want to be mistaken for an emergency vehicle that is going to rush through the intersection. When I am about 100 yards away, and see no other threats (driveways on the sides, etc.), I will revert to low beam until after the intersection. Same thing if on the freeway, following the same car for a while in heavy traffic. Might be mistaken for an officer asking them to pull over. If traffic is dynamic, flowing all over the place, constantly changing, I wil leave the modulator on to be noticed.

While the modualtor is legal in all 50 states and Canada, it is a relatively high-dollar option that very few riders have. You may have noticed in your state's motorcycle handbook that they encourage use of high beam during the day, because it makes you more visible and ...IT'S FREE!

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[Guest]

Found these interesting switchback LED drivers that are $30 for a pair: https://www.oznium.com/switchback-driver


Useful when you have an LED running light & an LED turn signal.
The running light goes out when you use the turn signal. The running light goes on again 2 seconds after you stop using the turn signal.