No start again

[alke46]

Hey look who's back. With another electrical problem of course.

Two weeks ago I had an electrical problem that was traced to the orange wires coming from the ignition switch back to the fuse block. So naturally, that's the 1st place I looked today, but that fix is still OK.

Here's the problem: I've had the bike out twice since the last problem but yesterday while out on it, I stopped and re-started it 4 times. When I got home, I decided I would go back out and gas it up and that's when the problem showed up. I pushed the start button and nothing happened. Thankful that I was home at the time.

The lights all work, the horn works, and the turn signals work. So where do I look now? I separated the two halves of the starter switch and pushing the start button lights up my test light but that's as far as I went. I did test the solenoid by holding a screwdriver across the two terminals and it does engage the starter.

What's next???? And oh did I forget to mention that next week I plan on taking it to Farmington for the Ozark rally?

Thanks in advance

[Guest]

Hey look who's back. With another electrical problem of course.

Two weeks ago I had an electrical problem that was traced to the orange wires coming from the ignition switch back to the fuse block. So naturally, that's the 1st place I looked today, but that fix is still OK.

Here's the problem: I've had the bike out twice since the last problem but yesterday while out on it, I stopped and re-started it 4 times. When I got home, I decided I would go back out and gas it up and that's when the problem showed up. I pushed the start button and nothing happened. Thankful that I was home at the time.

The lights all work, the horn works, and the turn signals work. So where do I look now? I separated the two halves of the starter switch and pushing the start button lights up my test light but that's as far as I went. I did test the solenoid by holding a screwdriver across the two terminals and it does engage the starter.

What's next???? And oh did I forget to mention that next week I plan on taking it to Farmington for the Ozark rally?

Thanks in advance

That solenoid test only shows that you are getting power from the battery and that your starter works after crossing the terminals. You need to make sure the Y/G wires is getting battery voltage when you push the starter button. If it is then your solenoid may be bad. Apply 12 volts directly to the Y/G wire at the bullet connector and listen for the click. If it clicks and still doesn't pass the current to the starter you may have carbon build up inside the solenoid under the big posts. A smack with a hammer or something heavy like a big wrench sometime jars the carbon loose and it will work again, but that is only a temporary fix. Get a new solenoid, they are only around $15.

[alke46]

Can the kill switch be ruled out or is it a possibility?

[Guest]

Can the kill switch be ruled out or is it a possibility?

Disconnect the Y/G wire connector down at the starter solenoid and test the harness side for battery voltage when the key is on and your pushing the button. If you have voltage your button is working. You can do a continuity test from the connector to the switch if your multi meter has that function but you'll need to take the control apart again.

Sorry I thought you were talking about the starter button. It would still be the same voltage test at the Y/G wire connector. Voltage has to pass through the kill switch first then the starter button. You can do a continuity test on the kill switch.

[Guest]

Perfect opportunity to use your test light.
First, I have to ask: is your clutch "safety" switch bypassed? No problem either way, it's just easier if it's bypassed.
Second, test the ignition fuse. If the wiring diagram is correct, you have four fuses in your fuse panel. The main fuse is at one end, the ignition fuse is at the other end. There will be an orange wire on one side, and orange/white wire on the other side.
Third, connect the clip to a ground (battery negative or chassis ground), then touch the point to the yellow/green wire on the starter solenoid. With the ignition key ON, press the starter button. If the light comes on, your kill switch and starter button are good. If the light comes on and you don't hear the solenoid click, move your test light to the outer case of the solenoid and push the starter button again. If it comes on again, you have a bad ground to the solenoid.

If your test light did NOT come on when you were at the solenoid, your problem might be at the kill switch or the starter button. You can pull the tank and look for a 3-pin connector that goes to the right-side controls. The three wires are 1: feed wire, 2: wire switched by kill switch to coils, 3: wire from starter button to solenoid. Very easy to check all three with your test light.

[alke46]

That solenoid test only shows that you are getting power from the battery and that your starter works after crossing the terminals. You need to make sure the Y/G wires is getting battery voltage when you push the starter button. If it is then your solenoid may be bad. Apply 12 volts directly to the Y/G wire at the bullet connector and listen for the click. If it clicks and still doesn't pass the current to the starter you may have carbon build up inside the solenoid under the big posts. A smack with a hammer or something heavy like a big wrench sometime jars the carbon loose and it will work again, but that is only a temporary fix. Get a new solenoid, they are only around $15.

That relay is priced at $66 for OEM. Are there aftermarket ones available for the $15 you mentioned?

Perfect opportunity to use your test light.
First, I have to ask: is your clutch "safety" switch bypassed? No problem either way, it's just easier if it's bypassed.
Second, test the ignition fuse. If the wiring diagram is correct, you have four fuses in your fuse panel. The main fuse is at one end, the ignition fuse is at the other end. There will be an orange wire on one side, and orange/white wire on the other side.
Third, connect the clip to a ground (battery negative or chassis ground), then touch the point to the yellow/green wire on the starter solenoid. With the ignition key ON, press the starter button. If the light comes on, your kill switch and starter button are good. If the light comes on and you don't hear the solenoid click, move your test light to the outer case of the solenoid and push the starter button again. If it comes on again, you have a bad ground to the solenoid.

If your test light did NOT come on when you were at the solenoid, your problem might be at the kill switch or the starter button. You can pull the tank and look for a 3-pin connector that goes to the right-side controls. The three wires are 1: feed wire, 2: wire switched by kill switch to coils, 3: wire from starter button to solenoid. Very easy to check all three with your test light.

I got no light at the solenoid. Is the 3-pin connector you mention in the headlight bucket? I think it is and I only can get the test light to light up on the middle wire which is the orange power wire.
Guess I have to take the right side handlebar control apart now.

Thanks to both of you for your replies.

[alke46]

OK now for the update. I finally got the test light to function as it should at all the connections for the start button and the kill switch. Was able to get the light to light up with the start button depressed and touching the Y/G wire at the switch. I then went to the same wire at the solenoid and it light up also. I could hear a small clicking sound inside the relay so I tapped on it with a small hammer and voila, the starter now engages with the start button.

I also found a new relay on ebay for $21 so that will go on in place of the old one. Just hope the old one works for me next week as I still plan to take the GS to a GS rally in the Ozarks of southeastern Missouri.

gsrick, your diagnosis was spot on. Thank you.. Also thank you to phydeauxmutt for your test light advice.