Chasing my electrical problems on my GS450

[dennco2]

I tried to make progress today with my new generic replacement headlight assembly.

I got the wiring harness connectors pulled through the new headlight bucket ... only to find out the tear drop bucket design does not clear the bottom of the ignition switch/fork lock mechanism and I can't line up the side mounting bolts to the fork ears. Seems the only way to make it clear is to make a big dent in the top of the bucket ... which might also distort the headlight ring area. Or cut out that top part and tape over it to prevent future rainwater leakage.

The construction quality seems fine with what looks like a spun steel bucket with durable chrome outer surface. A lot lighter steel parts than OEM. Thought I was home free with this unit but now have to figure out how to clear the bottom of the steering lock.HL1.jpg

[Gorminrider]

Oh man! that does look like a nice bucket too..very oldskool as theysay today... but possibly you could cut it away?

OR better yet make your own ears for it...and turf the suzuki ones...of course, you'll have to slide the stanchions down and out and unstick the rotten rubber washers at each end of those old ears-on-tubes. A pain. But really, it'd be a shame to wreck the bucket. I'd expect you'll have enough slack in the harness to still work it into your bucket extended forward but you'd better jam it all in before you get fixed on the new location...

Not that any of this matters anymore

.True but it's a forum after all... The differences in diagrams seem to indicate that something anomalous was happening and that makes it interesting to me anyways.

anomaly in RRcircuit.jpg

[posplayr]

That diagram shows a single scr which is shorting the entire rectifier output. That means that single SCR is shorting out all shunt current (i.e. All current to the stator that did not go to the external load).
the headlamp switches that open up stator legs operates independently. The way they interact is that if the headlamp is off less current goes to the electrical system and there for has to be shunted back adding additional stress to the SCR.
if you open a leg on the stator you are limiting it's output. Since the headlamp uses 5 amps that represents about 1/3 of the total electrical load. So removing the leg with headlamp off saves the scr from having to shunt the current.

[dennco2]

No progress as yet on the changing out of the headlamp assembly. When looking at the space volume available inside the coned shaped bucket ... I don't see how I can get all the wiring harness tucked in there and make connections. The stock bucket has a LOT more space around the bulb socket. Starting to look like a failed experiment.

I WAS going to go for a 7" or even 8" bucket and lens (from a larger GS model) but I knew the fork ears would not fit the 6.5" mounting width and the ears would not be parallel when clamped on. The 85 GS450 seems to have a smaller odd sized sealed lens and reflector.

In retrospect, maybe I should have tried to find a reflector and lens (with a replaceable bulb) .... that would fit my stock Suzuki bucket that is known to clear all adjacent parts? Of course the ring around the lens has to fit it plus the bucket. Making new mounting ears might be my only option ... to make it all fit?

[sam000lee]

Just FYI there are lots of aftermarket options for headlight ears. I used these on my GS450 (picture in my GS450 thread in my sig.) which pushed the headlight out a little. They have them on amazon for <$10, too.

https://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-lighting-parts-mediumweight-dimpled-chrome-headlight-brackets-60-1440.html

You'll still have to figure out a way to stuff all the wiring mess in there...

[Gorminrider]

^^yeah, like that!

WAS going to go for a 7" or even 8" bucket and lens (from a larger GS model) but I knew the fork ears would not fit the 6.5" mounting width

actually, it's interesting to note that some of larger bikes had ears that were bent at angles "outwards" to take buckets ...for a different reason,per the way their ears are attached, but you might incorporate that idea somewhere if you Do step back and find a bigger bikes headlamp...

Yes, the oem buckets have enough room for the simple450/400 wiring ... having that bigger hole at the bottom than yours is helpful too.

how a few have successfully removed the stock incandescent bulb and secured the replacement bulb with glue or wires or rubber bands

(from sealed beams) I've done this on a couple but no rubber bands needed. Just trim the H4 with shears use the same rubber washers and bend the tabs back....and put it in correctly per up/down. It's not ideal (the bent tabs fatigue so can only do it once) but is good enough until H4 bulb reflectors show up.

[850 Combat]

Your starter solenoid switching power goes through the kill switch, ignition switch, and probably the clutch switch. There are plenty of switches that maybe making intermittent contact.

[earlfor]

Only my second post, but I've tinkered with two GS450s now and have found the same problem on both, which will apply to you. One of the wires from the stator routes behind the R/R, but instead of going directly to the R/R, it routed all the way through the headlight bucket for absolutely no reason (well documented on here, but probably a wiring harness common to multiple bikes). Both my two had burned up the multi-wire connector in the headlight bucket.

The reason for the 3rd leg of the stator going through the headlight is to insure the 3rd leg is inactive unless the headlight is on. If this is bypassed, and the headlight is turned off, the battery will be continuously overcharged and fail and the extra heat developed in the R/R due to having to shunt too much amperage to ground will fry the R/R.

[Gorminrider]

Charging was never unregulated.

Yes thanks JP my mistake...corrected my post above...

[dennco2]

Slow progress on these issues ... but I'll get there.

Today I found what I think solves my headlight replacement issues. I found that the stock Suzuki headlight bucket for many GS bikes is .... part 5181-16 including my 1985 GS450. A seller on Ebay had a LIKE NEW complete headlight assembly .... with a replaceable H4 bulb and not a sealed beam like my old one. $60. So I can upgrade my headlight brightness and not have any issues with routing of the wiring harness into the bucket.

If someone else can use my generic chromed bullet shaped headlight ... just let me know. Pic was attached to previous post.

[dennco2]

Here it is 3 months later ....... and I am finally getting around to installing a replacement stock OEM Suzuki bucket and headlight reflector .... with replaceable bulb design. I carefully inserted the wiring harness coming into the bucket from the left and right lower grommet holes. Had to use my best guestament in routing the 2 large clusters of wires and to allow space in the middle for the bulb and reflector to go on later. I think all is tucked in there pretty well .... but now I have some loose connectors without a match! I tried to arrange the connectors in the center so I could take a picture of them .... and maybe someone can suggest what I am missing? I should have written down the the wire colors, but maybe the picture shows those? Seems there was a double green and a double brown. Also an all white wire and a white wire with very small black stripes. I am not good at ready wire schematics ... though lately I have made a little sense out of it. I stopped to clean all bullet connectors in the bucket .... male and female and grease them.


new bucket4.jpg

[posplayr]

Black with a white tracer is harness ground. If you are going to do electrical work you should take note of the colors. One thing that Suzuki pretty much standardized on across all GS bike models is wire color.

[Gorminrider]

the double light green wire is to plug in RIGHT turn signals. It is double because it has to goto back of bike too. The other LEFT turn signal will plug in to a double light blue.

The black wires are the actual signals themselves. They are not colour coded because they will work on either side-eases replacement!!

The White-with-stripe is a question It is NOT THE SAME as Black/WHITE stripe......I am not sure. If White/BLACK stripe, IT might be for headlamp, or kill switchor clutch switch but it doesn't suit the code I am looking at. Might be from an aftermarket replacement.....FOLLOW it-that'll tell you.

IF it is white/GREEN stripe, OR white/RED stripe it is:

the so-called headlamp switch stator loop They come all the way from the stator to here. "We" mostly disable it at the stator so that these wires are not used except as spares ...perhaps rewired as an auxiliary for a phone charger or gps......as "original"should really only be used with the original rectifier/regulator.

[dennco2]

Thanks for the good suggestions, guys. I have made some progress. Turn signals work, starter motor turns over the engine and dash lights come on. However, I have 4 connection still loose.

From the starter button housing comes 2 wires with male connectors ..... Orange (connected) and the WHITE with black stripe wire (the kill switch wire?) .... where to?
The single ALL WHITE female connector?
The second single BLACK with white stripes female?
The double BROWN female?

I took a new picture of the 3 loose female connectors .... and the 1 male from the starter housing.

HL11.jpg

[Gorminrider]

I have to go with the diagrams I have handy but ....

I have a sneaking suspicion the Orange and the White/Black stripe will be your front brake light switch. The diagram I have shows these to be Orange and White wires.
SO! plug the White/Bk male into the white female and the Orange into Orange.


Brown should be for your tailight. It often has an extra input for a front parking light UNUSED in Canada and the US. But I haven't seen one like yours if it has two female connectors. You could use it for running lights.

Black/white stripe is Always "Ground"...that is, it eventually gets attached to the frame of the bike and gets "Negative" from the battery through it's big "ground strap" .
You have the turn signals correctly connected-indeed they have a double female ground.

The single female ground is looking for a mate? Well, it might be the ground for the" Not-used In Canada/US-Front parking lamp"...I'd have to pull up a Euro or UK diagram to see if I'm right