82 gs1100E wiring question (turn signal related)

[timbaux]

In the last thread I posted, i was having problems with figuring out the wiring in the headlight bucket. I got that all straight, i think.

I dont have a motor in the bike, but i put a new battery in it so i could test everything electrical.

Though i have not gotten all the "dash" lights working, the head lamp light does come on, and so does the bright light indicator.

I bought a flasher, and i do not have power to the turn signals. Put a tester on it and confirmed there is no power on the light green wire or the black one that goes on the two turn signals (along with the ground on each side).

Everything that is supposed to have power, the orange/red, orange/green and all the others, the grays...they have power but for some reason the turn signals are not coming on. I put power to the turn signals and they do work, but i cannot get the light green and the black to become hot when i turn on the turn signal switch.

Any help appreciated, as always, and thanks in advance.

[Steve]

I believe your bike has self-cancelling turn signals. If you bought a flasher anywhere except Suzuki, it will not work.

There are ways to bypass that, but it will involve some minor re-wiring.

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[timbaux]

Oh boy i forgot to look into that. If that is the case the turn signals wont come on at all?

[Steve]

I believe so. (I could be wrong. Again. )

The third pin in the connector for the stock flasher unit is not a ground, which is typically the function of the third pin on the flasher.

I don't know the internal wiring of the stock flasher, but it might be easy to think of it as having an internal relay that turns the relay on. It does not control the flash or the rate, merely whether it works or not. The Turn Signal Control Unit (TSCU) controls that 'relay' via that third pin.

You might be able to use a 2-pin flasher from the auto parts store to check the function of the signals, but when you get the bike road-ready, the auto-cancel function will not work. If you use a 3-pin flasher, it simply won't work, because they have an internal timer that relies on a steady power input and ground connection to work. When the timer is working, the output to the lights will 'flash' at a steady rate, regardless of the load applied. You could monitor that output with a single LED or a headlight bulb, it would not matter. Since none of the stock pins is connected to ground, that timer will not work.

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[Guest]

If you use a 3-pin flasher, it simply won't work, because they have an internal timer that relies on a steady power input and ground connection to work. When the timer is working, the output to the lights will 'flash' at a steady rate, regardless of the load applied. You could monitor that output with a single LED or a headlight bulb, it would not matter. Since none of the stock pins is connected to ground, that timer will not work.

Hey Steve,

I used a generic 3 pin flasher on my 1100E and wired the third pin to ground on the frame. I can't remember what I did with the odd third wire from the Suzuki flasher control unit, but my flashers work just fine. There is no self-canceling on mine, it has never worked since I bought the bike in 2004.

If OP wants to know how I wired it I can take a look next time I pull the tank.


Mark

[timbaux]

I believe so. (I could be wrong. Again. )

The third pin in the connector for the stock flasher unit is not a ground, which is typically the function of the third pin on the flasher.

I don't know the internal wiring of the stock flasher, but it might be easy to think of it as having an internal relay that turns the relay on. It does not control the flash or the rate, merely whether it works or not. The Turn Signal Control Unit (TSCU) controls that 'relay' via that third pin.

You might be able to use a 2-pin flasher from the auto parts store to check the function of the signals, but when you get the bike road-ready, the auto-cancel function will not work. If you use a 3-pin flasher, it simply won't work, because they have an internal timer that relies on a steady power input and ground connection to work. When the timer is working, the output to the lights will 'flash' at a steady rate, regardless of the load applied. You could monitor that output with a single LED or a headlight bulb, it would not matter. Since none of the stock pins is connected to ground, that timer will not work.

.

Thanks again i am goin to have to check into that. i might have to do some rewiring. .. not sure if i got self-canceling blinkers.. i think my 85 550E does, though.

[timbaux]

please do let me know if you do find out how you wired it..thanks!

[Steve]

I can tell you how it's done.

Determine which pin on the stock flasher is connected to the TSCU. Look carefully at the selection of flashers at the auto parts store to see which one has its ground pin at that location. There is a diagram on the package that helps a bit, but you have to look carefully to see whether it is a view from the end of the pins or the mating pins in the socket. I don't remember whether it's an EP-34 or EP-36, but start with those two.

Once you have chosen the flasher, prepare the socket on the bike. Locate the wire that goes to the TSCU. Cut it at a length that will allow you to re-connect the wires, if necessary, later. Connect a ground wire to the wire coming from the flasher socket.

You now have a flasher that will work with any load, but will not have auto-cancel.

.

[timbaux]

I can tell you how it's done.

Determine which pin on the stock flasher is connected to the TSCU. Look carefully at the selection of flashers at the auto parts store to see which one has its ground pin at that location. There is a diagram on the package that helps a bit, but you have to look carefully to see whether it is a view from the end of the pins or the mating pins in the socket. I don't remember whether it's an EP-34 or EP-36, but start with those two.

Once you have chosen the flasher, prepare the socket on the bike. Locate the wire that goes to the TSCU. Cut it at a length that will allow you to re-connect the wires, if necessary, later. Connect a ground wire to the wire coming from the flasher socket.

You now have a flasher that will work with any load, but will not have auto-cancel.

.

the orange/green and black/blue both go to the TSCU. The light blue goes to the left handlebar switch. I used a tester and both the orange/green and black/blue have power when the key is on.. the third wire does not. which wire am i to cut?

[Steve]

The black/blue is the wire to cut. Then connect the wire that comes from the flasher socket to ground.

The orange/green is the power wire from the fuse, the light blue is the flashing output. The left handlebar switch simply tells it which way to go when activated.

.

[timbaux]

The black/blue is the wire to cut. Then connect the wire that comes from the flasher socket to ground.

The orange/green is the power wire from the fuse, the light blue is the flashing output. The left handlebar switch simply tells it which way to go when activated.

.

So i cut the black/blue, run a wire from ground to the part of the wire that is still in the socket, and cap off the end of that wire ...the black/blue?

[Steve]

Capping off the end that goes to the TSCU is optional.

Don't forget to get a flasher unit that has the proper orientation.
I just took a look at mine, it's an EP34.

.

[timbaux]

Capping off the end that goes to the TSCU is optional.

Don't forget to get a flasher unit that has the proper orientation.
I just took a look at mine, it's an EP34.

.

Great thanks.. i am going to try that tomorrow if i can get done with my work. thanks man!

[timbaux]

Capping off the end that goes to the TSCU is optional.

Don't forget to get a flasher unit that has the proper orientation.
I just took a look at mine, it's an EP34.

.

just making sure... at this point my turn signals do not come on at all
Is this the fix for that? They are the original turn ssignals.

[Steve]

I don't remember if you are using stock(-ish) signals or some aftermarket 'stuff'.

If you are using stock(-ish) signals and don't mind spending a few extra bucks BEFORE cutting any wiring, ... get a generic 555 or 552 flasher, plug it into the connector, using the orange/green and light blue wire connectors.

After thinking about it for a bit, you can test things without getting yet another flasher.
With the ignition key ON, just use a jumper wire between those two terminals in the connector. Move your turn signal switch on the left handlebar, see if both signals come on. Move your switch to the other side to check the other signals.

If you are using stock(-ish) signals, you can get by with the two-pin 555 flasher. If you are using lower-powered incandescent bulbs or LEDs, you will need the EP34 and the wiring modification.

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