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    #16
    If you went from the red-circled items (big bolt ->little bolt ) that means your solenoid works. But it's pretty ugly and you should clean it up as much as possible. The photo makes it appear a mass of rust and it's amazing it doesn't all short out because of it.

    Last edited by Gorminrider; 02-09-2019, 03:08 PM.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Keith View Post
      UPDATE:

      I used a set of pliers to jump the solenoid and the starter motor cranked over. So i guess that means the solenoid is good? Something going on from the solenoid to the starter button?

      [ATTACH=CONFIG]57268[/ATTACH]
      If you mean you jumped from the solenoid main lug (battery+) to the little pad having the yel/grn wire then, yes, that means the solenoid is good and is well grounded.
      And, yes, that means your problem is in the starter button circuit.

      THe clutch interlock switch is in the starter button circuit and is a likely suspect. Details of the clutch interlock switch have been mentioned in previous post. So, yah, that is your next step.

      But, but, but, what you have circled in red in your pic doesnt look to me like the little solder pad that has the yel/grn wire. I dont see the yel/grn wire anywhere in your pic.
      Last edited by Redman; 02-09-2019, 04:04 PM.

      Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
      GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl


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        #18
        Originally posted by Redman View Post
        I dont see the yel/grn wire anywhere in your pic.
        Im sorry, i should have mentioned that i unplugged that wire to get easier access to the spot it was connected to.

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          #19
          Originally posted by Keith View Post
          Im sorry, i should have mentioned that i unplugged that wire to get easier access to the spot it was connected to.
          I have not seen a solenoid that has a plug on the yellow/green trigger wire.

          The clutch "safety" switch was mentioned in posts 4 and 6. Follow the wires from the switch on the left handlebar (they are the wires that start near the clutch lever pivot), down to the headlight bucket. You will have to remove the headlight to reveal the mess inside, but look for two yellow/green wires with bullet connectors. Separate both connectors, then take the two wires that are on the main harness side and connect them to each other. This leaves the clutch switch completely out of the circuit, and the bike thinks the switch is enabled. Be aware that by doing this, if the bike is not in neutral, IT WILL MOVE when you press the starter button (assuming everything is working as it should). It will still be good practice to visually ensure the neutral light is ON and maybe even still pull the clutch lever, but now it will not be mandatory when you are doing maintenance.

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