SH775 install frustrations

[pdqford]

I’m trying to figure out how I’m gonna find space to install the SH775, a new blade fuse box, and a relay to power the fuse box, AND still be able to cover it with the stock side cover on my 1980 GS750E.

I’ve started to mock it up but a few questions come to mind. Here’s a pic of what I’m working with.

BF5268A0-E802-4CE6-AC38-6E8D3684A94E.jpg

Don’t know why the picture is upside down. Nor do I know how to make it right side up.

I’ve mocked up a cardboard bracket to move the starter relay down and slightly to the left to clear the SH775 connector. But the bolt hidden behind the SH775 that will hold the homemade bracket to the original plate interferes with the SH775.

So my question is, does the SH775 need to have its shinny backside in full contact with the plate it mounts to keep it cool?

Or can I try and mount the Sh775 with standoffs to hold it 1/4” to 3/8” away from the mounting plate so that it will clear the bolt head behind it and run some wires behind the SH775?

I don’t think I can lower the starter relay any more for fear it will contact the chain guard when the rear suspension is in compression, but one of the starter solenoid mounting bolts hits a bracket behind the mocked up plate. Maybe one bolt would be enough to hold the starter relay, but I hate to compromise.

This fabrication stuff is realy unnerving me!

[LAB3]

Mine is on the opposite side of the bike under the cover on the right hand side mounted to the plate where the toolkit used to be, some people put it under the seat. Someone else might chime in with an opinion but I don't think it's necessary to mount it flush. As to wiring it in you're going to be better off going directly from the stator output wires to the regulator and bypassing the part that goes through the harness, make sure the ground goes directly to the battery and you're golden. On my bike, when I disconnected the stator wires from the harness and removed it I had plenty of wire to go to the right side of the bike, since to negative terminal of the battery was right there it made that connection much easier. Mounting it in a different spot with then leave you with plenty of room under the left side cover to mount that fuse block and relay, no need to relocate anything else.

[Steve]

Mounted tight? Not necessary. You can let it flop in the breeze, if you want, as long as the electrical connections are tight.

On the larger shafties, the stock location works well, but you might not have the room. Our stock location is under the battery box.

.

[Brendan W]

Mine is under the box as well.

[cowboyup3371]

Mine sits in the stock location (attached to the battery box on the left side) while the fuse block and relay site on the right side of the airbox

[roeme]

This is how I mounted mine, on a 550 model that had the regulator and rectifier as separate Units. I simply re-used the regulator's mount:

[pdqford]

Well, I am *finally* getting pack to my 1980 GS750E project that I started years ago.
I think I have figured out how to fit all the pieces I want to upgrade into the left side panel where the originals were located.

My plan was/is to convert to the SH775, switch from glass fuses to blade fuses, and install a relay to keep from dropping voltage up through the handle bar switches by having the relay feed the new blade fuses directly.

Here's what the mock up looks like. (I have verified that the side cover still fits but need to verify that the rear suspension travel clears the changes.)

IMG_0732 by pdq ford, on Flickr





And here's the questions I have.

Is it okay to install the starter solenoid upside down? (That way the battery cable and starter motor cable will side of still reach :-)
Does it matter which side of the starter solenoid the battery and starter motor cables are attached to?

With the fins of the SH775 vertical, will that effect the cooling of the R/R?

And finally, I had to lower the SH775 to where only one of the attachment holes has the metal plate behind it
ill one bolt be enough to hold the SH775 in place?

Appreciate any comments

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Is it okay to install the starter solenoid upside down? (That way the battery cable and starter motor cable will side of still reach :-)
Does it matter which side of the starter solenoid the battery and starter motor cables are attached to?
shouldn’t matter

With the fins of the SH775 vertical, will that effect the cooling of the R/R?
Probably not enough to be a problem. Keep an eye on it.

And finally, I had to lower the SH775 to where only one of the attachment holes has the metal plate behind it
ill one bolt be enough to hold the SH775 in place?
use a split(lock) washer under the screw head, some blue loctite maybe as well. Belt and braces. If you’re concerned, run a zip tie through the open SH775 hole and a stationary frame member.

.,.,.,.,.,.,.,.,.,.

[pdqford]

Thanks for your comments Rich.

I will (slowly) try and get this project moving (again).
My son will be visiting us this weekend and I’ll see if I can send that metal plate home with him.
He has a drill press to drill the new holes and a welder to tack weld some nuts to the back side of the newly drilled holes.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Seems like more work than necessary to me but I suppose if I had a welder, and was a competent welder (I don’t and I’m not), I may have done the same. My bike is different but this is how I mounted the RR. My bike has a plate that originally held the tool pouch. Said pouch and tools long gone, so I drilled some holes, and used bolts, washers, and split (lock) washers to secure the RR. This plate sits proud of the electrical panel that holds the fuse box and starter solenoid. Hasn’t come loose in 5 years.

[pdqford]

Rich, thanks for sharing.

What a difference between 1980 and 1982.
My tool kit on the 1980 GS750ET is back by the tail light.
There isn’t much depth to my electrical compartment.

Is your fuse block for glass or blade fuses?

Arn’t you now using Triumph connectors on the R/R ?

[Rich82GS750TZ]

My bike has blade fuses. The connectors at the bottom of the SH775 are indeed the Triumph connectors purchased here:

http://www.adeptpowersports.com/oem-parts/triumph-link-lead-regulator-t2500676-part.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0sSuyqnx-QIVhdezCh3TCgtaEAQYASABEgL1ovD_BwE

[pdqford]

Oh, okay, I see now that you do have the Triumph connectors.
My Triumph connector is gray for the rectifier side and black for the regulator side.

One more question and then I will stop bugging you (for a while :-).
What size wires should I run from the stator up to the rectifier?

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Sorry, not an expert there. Stator should have its own wires. They are smaller gauge than the ones in the triumph connector. Don’t go any smaller than the stator wires and you should be OK. — the opinions of a non electrical engineer.

But you really shouldn’t need more wire. You do have to cut off the ends of the Triumph connector and discard, unless you’re willing to hunt down the appropriate matching connector blocks and terminals to attach to your Stator wires.


Just follow Nessism’s diagram for connecting everything back up.


For the physical reconnecting of the wiring, here’s what I did. Bought a good crimp tool and OEM quality bullet connectors from https://www.vintageconnections.com, practiced making good crimps, and go to work. If you want to avoid a fat bundle of connectors when you tape everything up, stagger the connections like this so they’re not all together.

[Suzukian]

I put mine under the seat tool tray. It's opposite the battery, which makes the leads to the battery very short. It's also out of the way, and out of the elements. I never used that tool try, as my bike as a door on the tailpiece. I made a bracket out of a piece of flat stock from Home Depot, using a SImspon Tie down sheet. It rolled right over the frame with a few taps.