Am I ok with Regulator?

[Grimly]

Interesting. On the Shindengen page above, they do mention two that are under development and that was a while ago.
We know there's one 50A appeared on a couple of bikes in recent years, and this looks like another.
If it's genuinely a series type (and if Partzilla are accurate in their description), this looks like a contender with the bonus of sharing the same connectors.
Definitely one that needs to be clamp-metered and its operation seen for sure.
It's cheap enough, anyway.
https://www.partzilla.com/product/polaris/4016868

[posplayr]

Interesting. On the Shindengen page above, they do mention two that are under development and that was a while ago.
We know there's one 50A appeared on a couple of bikes in recent years, and this looks like another.
If it's genuinely a series type (and if Partzilla are accurate in their description), this looks like a contender with the bonus of sharing the same connectors.
Definitely one that needs to be clamp-metered and its operation seen for sure.
It's cheap enough, anyway.
https://www.partzilla.com/product/polaris/4016868

The foot print look pretty small compared to SH-775 but those fins really stick up! Looks like well over 2" of height. Obviously for a 50 amp device you have much more heat to dissipate, but unneeded for non EFI bike.

[suzukigs1100ez]

Well I do plan on trying it out. I can get actual measurements of it later today.

[posplayr]

Well I do plan on trying it out. I can get actual measurements of it later today.

What measurements? Clamp on current meter?

[suzukigs1100ez]

Physical size for now. 4 1/4 by 4 in. I didn't measure overall height with the fins. The bolt spacing is 3 3/8 on center. I do have a clamp for my meter but I think it only an A/c measuring.

Might be a week or to before I get bike running again to do testing. Currently pulling the carbs down and going thru the wiring.

[posplayr]

To confirm series operation, the AC current in the stator windings will drop when the load drops. Shunt is the other way around.

[suzukigs1100ez]

Oh that good to know. Can I put the clamp around the bundle of 3 or needs go around just one?

The height of unit from base to top of fins is 1 5/8" tall

I plan on relocating my Igniter to were my Original regulator was and mounting this on the side of the battery box. Scoped it out last night the wiring look like they will reach the new spot. Is there issue with the Igniter being mounted to that flat plate?

[posplayr]

Oh that good to know. Can I put the clamp around the bundle of 3 or needs go around just one?

The height of unit from base to top of fins is 1 5/8" tall

I plan on relocating my Igniter to were my Original regulator was and mounting this on the side of the battery box. Scoped it out last night the wiring look like they will reach the new spot. Is there issue with the Igniter being mounted to that flat plate?

You need to look at one wire only.

I think the best option for relocation is to put the SH-775 behind the plate opposite the stock R/R location and avoid moving the ignitor.
But to answer the specific question, assuming you do the wiring correct, you can mount the ignitor on the side plate.

[suzukigs1100ez]

Well I unbolted the igniter and see the length of wiring has and will reach just fine. I plan on keeping the air box so the only other place that had the space was on the side of the battery box and rear master cylinder. I got the bracket weld up and painted if it dries might try and test fit it tonight.

[posplayr]

Well I unbolted the igniter and see the length of wiring has and will reach just fine. I plan on keeping the air box so the only other place that had the space was on the side of the battery box and rear master cylinder. I got the bracket weld up and painted if it dries might try and test fit it tonight.

OK yea probably would not fit with the airbox. You should test everything before doing a final tie down on all the wires.

I do have some concerns about your grounding unless you do a SPG with 16 gauge wires to battery (-), Frame and stack the B/W harness ring lug. These combine to feed the R/R(-).

All current has to get back to teh R/R(-) so when you move the R/R the grounds have to follow.

The battery box has a ring lug to harness then back out to a ring lug that goes to the side plate typical at the R/R mounting bolt. Off the top of my head I don't know if you need to retain that ground lug on the battery box with the ignitor missing. It is at the front near where it bolts to the frame (under rubber grommet)frame.

If you do not ground the R/R properly to the frame and battery you will face all the R/R (-)current to come through that little B/W ring lug under the grommet.

You just have to pay attention to how the current will return from all sources.