Staor test question

[Guest]

I have done a search on this. The tests in the Stator Papers are they done with a load or without? The manual, for the '79 GS850 tells you to pull 2 fuses, not which ones mind you. Most likely headlight and another before testing. I have an 1982 GS 850 and that info in the manual doesn't translate over well. I do pull the headlight fuse for the test.

Just replaced stator. The bike wasn't charging...started at 12.8 volts the other day and ended with a dead battery, 12.38v. Toasted wires on stator. Ran it after and got 13.8 across the battery, no headlight fuse. Installed fuse road illegal bike up and down road a bit, (short distance, low speed), parked. Battery started at 12.67, and at the end was 12.97v. Success! I would guess that means it is charging well.

Battery is 4 years old, but been maintained, a Parts Unlimited sealed unit. Can those be tested without blowing up? R/R is new, do not remember if it is a Suzuki part or not,( I stupidly tossed the old R/R and the box the new one came in), Stator is from Ricks.

I never saw the voltage go above 14v at 5k rpm, doesn't mean it didn't I just didn't see it. More than likely I still have dirty connections to sort out.

Val

[posplayr]

I would suggest doing a Quick test, report all 6 numbers and we can go from there.

Given you changed teh stator , that is likely no problem there. What did the old stator look like? Burned?

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?164993-Charging-System-QUICK-TEST&p=1272192#post1272192

[Guest]

I would suggest doing a Quick test, report all 6 numbers and we can go from there.

Given you changed teh stator , that is likely no problem there. What did the old stator look like? Burned?

https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...92#post1272192

The insulation was toasted, crumbling. Not bad for 38 years. I don't remember the output I checked it months ago, I think we struggled for 60Vac, and figured at that time the stator was cooked. It is charging now, better than the maintainer I use. But my question was are the readings in the stator papers...or the tests done with no load, as in pull the headlight fuse at least, or are they with the headlight fuse in? Somewhere, other than the manual I read pull they headlight fuse I think.

Thanks
Val

[posplayr]

The insulation was toasted, crumbling. Not bad for 38 years. I don't remember the output I checked it months ago, I think we struggled for 60Vac, and figured at that time the stator was cooked. It is charging now, better than the maintainer I use. But my question was are the readings in the stator papers...or the tests done with no load, as in pull the headlight fuse at least, or are they with the headlight fuse in? Somewhere, other than the manual I read pull they headlight fuse I think.

Thanks
Val

I never saw the voltage go above 14v at 5k rpm, doesn't mean it didn't I just didn't see it. More than likely I still have dirty connections to sort out.

This is not good but not the end of the world. You should try and get closer to 14.5VDC.

I don't know what test you are taking about. Phase B VAC stator test at 5k RPM are disconnected as in the manual but you shoudl add leg to ground as that is the most important.

[Steve]

But my question was are the readings in the stator papers...or the tests done with no load, as in pull the headlight fuse at least, or are they with the headlight fuse in?

When properly testing the stator, it doesn't matter how many fuses you have installed or pulled.

To test the stator output, you need to remove the three wires that connect the stator to the R/R. Unless somebody has re-routed those wires to a more-preferred configuration, the stock wiring had one of the three stator wires disappearing into the harness, where it would go under the tank, then turn around and come back to the R/R. It is preferred to eliminate that bypass and run all three stator wires directly to the R/R.

Once the three stator wires are loose, arbitrarily label the wires "A", "B" and "C". Connect an AC voltmeter to A and B, run the engine at 5000 RPM and check voltage. Should be over 75 volts. Check the voltage at the pair of A and C, then at B and C. All three readings should be virtually identical.

Yes, you can pull the headlight switch if you want, to minimize draining the battery, but the bike will only be running for about a minute for these quick tests.

If you get adequate voltage from the stator, re-connect to the R/R and do the Quick Test in posplayr's signature and report the results.

.