More melted wires/connectors

[darrell3001]

Hello all,

Thanks for all the comments so far on the upgrade to stator and regulator. Ive done my homework and now understand how these components work and understand the problem that is causing the melted wires. This board is an absolute lifeline.

Ive gotten further on the teardown and ive found more wiring problems. I dropped the headlight off last night and with the intent of getting the wiring harness fully detached such that i can start coaxing it back to life. What i found was one of the 9-pin connectors had melted and fused together. I ended up having to destroy the connector to get it unplugged. No sweat, i can rebuild that. The wires that are fused are the Green/White and White/Red wires. They plug into a connector that simply loops back.

In looking at the wiring diagram, it appears that this is coming directly off the stator (Green/White), then routed thru the headlight and then looped back to the regulator. Is this necessary to take such a convoluted path to the regulator? The White/Black and Yellow wires from the stator go directly to the regulator. Im no expert on the electrical system, but it would seem much easier just to eliminate this run thru the headlight and go directly into the regulator with an air tight, heat shrink connection.

Ive attached a couple of pix.


Am i missing something here?

Thanks and Best Regards

[Rich82GS750TZ]

You found the notorious useless headlamp loop. Congratulations. You already figured out what you need to do. All 3 wires from the stator can and should go directly to the R/R. You can just tie up those other wires that went from the stator to the headlamp and back again.

[posplayr]

Ditto! ............

[Redman]

........
In looking at the wiring diagram, it appears that this is coming directly off the stator (Green/White), then routed thru the headlight and then looped back to the regulator. Is this necessary to take such a convoluted path to the regulator? ........

Your description seems to indicate that you have a good understanding of the situation.

Is it necessary....?
Well, yes, it WAS when that "loop" of the stator leg up to the headlight connector was switched by the headlight switch (US models prior to 1980) (1980 and after didnt have headlight on-off switch).

No, it is not needed since then, but they keept the design of the main harness the same. You can wire stator directly to the R/R.

[darrell3001]

Thanks for the prompt reply. I love a good mystery. My suspicion is that this "useless headlight loop" was a simple way to reuse parts an existing wiring harness from previous year. In my studies of how the stator and regulator work, i looked at (attached) this graphic in the service manual many times and didnt quite understand the switch they are referencing. I was even more confused when i saw the loop back last night. In looking at the wiring diagram for a 1100GL, it appears that these two wires were shunted thru the ignition switch, but on the 1100ED, they were just hard shunted with the loopback. Anyway, you have already answered my question, im just validating my detective skills. Thanks a million!

As always, Best Regards

[darrell3001]

Hi Redman.. Didnt see your post before i hit reply. Thanks for the validation on this.

[darrell3001]

no headlight on/off switch on 1980-.. That is an amazing revelation! I rode that bike for years and it never occurred to me until i read your post that there was no on/off switch for the headlight. I learn something new (that is actually old) everyday.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Darrell, welcome to the forum. It’s recommended to put your bike specs in your signature then no one will ever have to ask. Also, we like pictures.

[Redman]

no headlight on/off switch on 1980-.. . . . . . .

Yah
I had a 79 that had headlight switch (and kickstart).
And then was annoyed when I got an 82 without a headlight switch and without a kickstarter. Was particarly annoyed when had a week battery and could not shut off the headlight (but I got real good at taking off seat so could pull head light fuse, could do it in the dark).

[hank2]

Good info here! When I get caught up on many other matters and projects I want to rewire my charging system.

This is a picayune tidbit, but my 1981 GS650G still has the headlight on/off switch with one charging leg routed through that switch. I know that the '82 on GS650 did not have the headlight switch. For now, I switch the headlight on as soon as I start the engine.

[Steve]

Federal (USA) law dictated that any motorcycle produced on, or after, 01 JAN 1979 would have some means of ensuring that the headlight is ON by the time the bike was moving on the road. Some manufacturers chose to simply have the headlight come ON with the key, others used various methods of time delay to allow starting the engine without the additional load of the headlight.

Suzuki chose the 'ON with the key' method for the North American market. Because the rest of the world still allowed a switchable light, Suzuki changed the sub-harness that went to the left-side handlebar switch. The (previous) headlight switch actually had two sets of contacts. One was for the headlight power, the other switched the third leg of the stator, so the R/R would not have to work so hard to control the excess when the light was OFF. Some of the '80, even into early '81 models of the smaller GSes still had a switch, but it was mechanically blocked so it could not be operated. Many owners removed the block.

Bottom line: if you don't have a headlight switch, ignore the loop, wire all three stator wires directly to the R/R.

.

[hank2]

Good to know Steve. I wasn't sure when the headlight on manufacturers rule started exactly. Some PO must have messed with my '81 switch and removed the block. I start it on headlight off, then switch them on when running.

[AGRO]

Hi guys, l have a 82 Gs850g in Australia and I am in the process of fixing my wiring loom as l too have found the green plug behind the headlight melted together. My question is I have the on/ off switch headlight switch on my model what do l do. Thanks in advance.

[Suzukian]

You have to wire all three Stator wires directly the the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier. Suzuki in their infinite wisdom only regulated one leg of the Stator and let the other voltages swing wildly wreaking havoc on the wiring. On my bike, I got thicker, same size as the Stator, gauge wires, and made a "mini Harness" and threaded it to a Kawasaki Voltage Regulator/Rectifier that came off an XS1100. Massive cooling fins, a beast of a unit. I then ran the positive and negative wires directly to the battery. I took out the useless tool box, and put the Kawi Unit on a mount I made for it right on that spot. Anything that went to the headlight from the Stator was removed from the wiring harness. Just cut off the ends, it all pulls right out. Anything that had to stay together, but was melted, I cut, put shrink tubing on the wires, then crimped on bullet connectors, I also put in dielectric grease, then heated the shrink tubing to keep it neat.

By then I had blown my Stator so I purchased one from "ElectroSports" which put out 20% more power, and I haven't had a problem in 8000 miles. This problem sent many of these beautiful bikes to the scrap heap, or people parted them out. I wish I had the money back then. I would have purchased about 10 GS1150's and fixed them, then held onto them, and raked in the bucks, as now that everyone knows the problem, they aren't cheap to buy anymore.

[AGRO]

Thanks for the response. Very much appreciated