SH775 Installation (pigtail harness)

[93Bandit]

Hey guys, I ordered a used SH775 from the fleabay for $37 shipped. I was expecting a cruddy/dirty unit to arrive, it it's quite clean! Even the contacts are clean without corrosion which is a pleasant surprise.

On to my question, I've searched the archives for a specific answer to my question, but only came across a few mentions of a procedure I'd like to do with no additional details, so I just wanted to verify this is a good idea before I make something permanent. I've seen mention of purchasing a Triumph connector harness to install the SH775, and others just use spade connectors. I don't want to order a Triumph connector, and I don't think regular spade terminals will hold up to moisture/dirt. I intend on mounting the SH775 where my factory R/R is on my 850L, which is underneath the battery box and is somewhat exposed to the elements. So, I'm thinking I'll wire it up with spade connectors just to verify my charging system is working properly, then fill the connector cavities with GE Silicon 2+ (google told me to use acid free, and this is what it recommended). Then I will add connectors to the other end of the 3 stator wires and the positive wire (ground wire will have a loop terminal crimped/soldered on and go straight to ground), effectively creating an attached pigtail harness on the SH775.

What do you guys think?

[Nessism]

I used Dow 3145 RTV. I've got some spare tubes you can have for the cost of shipping. It's aerospace grade electrical safe RTV. I get it from where I work (tubes with expired shelf life but still perfectly usable.)


P1040151 by nessism, on Flickr

[93Bandit]

Thanks for the offer, Ed, but I think this GE silicone will work. What do you think? It's water proof and supposed to be safe for electronics.

[Nessism]

I can't find a data sheet for GE Silicone 2+. Gotta link?

[Steve]

You want to use something that you THINK will work, or something that Nessism KNOWS will work?

And, to top it off, it's used in the aerospace industry. How much better a product or recommendation do you want?

.

[93Bandit]

I can't find a data sheet for GE Silicone 2+. Gotta link?

I believe this is it http://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS0...8-20150704.PDF I cannot find a difference between 2 and 2+, I think they're the same. One may be a marketing term, the other shorthand.

It's a neutral cure silicone, which according to what I've read online is safe for potting electronics.

According to this guy,

Your normal every day RTV silicone is 'Condensation cured' where atmospheric moisture is what makes it cure. There are 3 general kinds. Acetoxy cure, which is the cheapest, bonds well, but releases acetic acid on curing (the acid ingredient in vinegar) And corrodes copper and lots of other metal. Even sealing an enclosure with it, the trapped fumes inside can corrode the items. The other two kinds are neutral cure, but still slightly different. Oxime cure which releases a ketone on curing. This can corrode copper on contact, but isnt as bad to use near electronics, just not directly on copper. The most desirable for electronics is Alkoxy cure, which releases methanol. Mind the fumes from all of them, but if you have a large surface area covered, Acetic acid fumes can be pretty nasty. Though your nose will give you plenty of warning that something isnt right.

The GE silicone II, as mentioned, is generally available locally (at least in the US) and is Alkoxy cure, so +1 to nanofrog on that being a good choice.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginn...ronics-grade)/

Also, directly from GE's website FAQ section,

What's the difference between GE Silicone 1 sealant and GE Silicone 2+ sealant?GE Silicone 2+ sealant is what's called a "neutral cure" silicone, which means no acids are released during the curing process (as there are in GE Silicone 1 sealant). This enables GE Silicone 2+ sealant to adhere to a broader range of substrates such as plastics, concrete, and high-end metal finishes such as brass and copper. Also, the odor of a neutral cure silicone such as GE Silicone 2+ sealant is much less pronounced than an acid or acetoxy cure silicone such as GE Silicone 1 sealant.

You want to use something that you THINK will work, or something that Nessism KNOWS will work?

And, to top it off, it's used in the aerospace industry. How much better a product or recommendation do you want?

.

Well, if what I have works, I can use it today and take advantage of the nice weather we're having. Or, I can wait another week to get something from Ed.

Also, my point is not to argue, but to come up with viable options. Not everyone has easy access to aerospace industry grade stuff, nor an individual kind enough to share, such as Ed. I'd like to find something more available for common folk to use, should this question come up again in the future.

[Nessism]

I don't know about using gutter RTV as electrical potting compound. For one thing there could be electrical conductivity issues. Anyway, you could always go with spade terminals sans potting compound short term to get yourself back on the road. Just don't ride in the rain. In the mean time order yourself a tube of proper silicone potting compound. McMaster and Amazon sells Dow 748 which will work nicely.

[93Bandit]

I don't know about using gutter RTV as electrical potting compound. For one thing there could be electrical conductivity issues. Anyway, you could always go with spade terminals sans potting compound short term to get yourself back on the road. Just don't ride in the rain. In the mean time order yourself a tube of proper silicone potting compound. McMaster and Amazon sells Dow 748 which will work nicely.

You have a good point. I can ride it with spades for temporary until I get the correct potting compound. I think that's what I'll do.

I went ahead and called GE tech support to see if they would recommend GE Silicon 2 for electrical, or if they recommend something else. The gentleman I spoke with recommended using Momentive RTV112, as it is designed for electrical use. Before I called them, I was considering using Silicon 2 as an experiment, but since the manufacture recommended something else, I'll forgo that experiment.

Ed, if you would be so kind to PM me a shipping cost of your Dow 3145 RTV, it would be much appreciated!

[Grimly]

Why reinvent the wheel?
The Triumph harness is well made, weathertight, and can be unplugged any time in the future.
Sheee-it, I'm the world's tightest tight-wad when it comes to spending money on useless fripperies, and I cheerfully stumped up the twenty quid (to my door) it cost me for the Triumph part.

[robertbarr]

Why reinvent the wheel?
The Triumph harness is well made, weathertight, and can be unplugged any time in the future.
Sheee-it, I'm the world's tightest tight-wad when it comes to spending money on useless fripperies, and I cheerfully stumped up the twenty quid (to my door) it cost me for the Triumph part.

Your reply had me laughing, but it really fits this thread!

[93Bandit]

Why reinvent the wheel?
The Triumph harness is well made, weathertight, and can be unplugged any time in the future.
Sheee-it, I'm the world's tightest tight-wad when it comes to spending money on useless fripperies, and I cheerfully stumped up the twenty quid (to my door) it cost me for the Triumph part.

It has less to do with the money, and more to do with the wait time associated with ordering the harness.

[Nessism]

One thing I'll say is that the connector adds bulk to the install. With the potted wires you can bend them easier to get out of the way of a frame tube or what have you.

[suzukigs1100ez]

The one I got the person had cut the wires off and gave me both pigtails so I guess I got lucky when I installed mine.

[93Bandit]

One thing I'll say is that the connector adds bulk to the install. With the potted wires you can bend them easier to get out of the way of a frame tube or what have you.

For anyone asking in the future, on my 83 850L, I suggest potting the wires coming from the SH775 due to what Nessism mentions. Using the factory mounting location, the wires coming out of the SH775 come very close to the wires coming from the turn signal box (I think that's what it is?). If I had a bulky connector on the SH775, I'd be a little concerned the surrounding wires would be bent too sharply around the connector. This wouldn't be an issue if you install the SH775 elsewhere, but I wanted to maintain the factory location and orientation.