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Right cylinder not firing '82 GS300L

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    #16
    Originally posted by Hamcake View Post
    Thanks Redman -
    I've measured the left boot and it's at 10.45 kOhms. Funny that they're such high values. So unless anyone can think of a reason why these should be 10 kOhms - sounds like it'd be wise to replace them, especially since they're cheap. .
    ...
    ...
    Hum, both are about 10K.
    Hum... oh, wait.
    THat is s 2 cyclinder engine, ... it have two coils...one coil per cylinder?

    On 4 cylinder there are two coils, one coil with wire out each end to sparkplugs, and caps for those are 5K.

    Let me see what I can find.

    >>later note: Am not finding what should be on the 300.

    BUt should be printing on the side of the cap, the number 01, 05 or 10 will be the K ohms.
    If it says 05 but measures 10K, well, then it is on its way out.
    If it says 10, well, I dont know if it should be 10 or not.
    Last edited by Redman; 05-14-2020, 05:13 PM.

    Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
    GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl


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      #17
      Hi Redman -
      Thanks for the assistance. Yup, two cylinder. One coil per cylinder.
      fbody mentioned that 10k is expected, but I may as well replace since they're cheap.
      I don't recall seeing any number printed... probably worn off.
      Yeah, not a ton of information about the 300 out there

      Worked on the wife's bike today (putting new wheel bearings in her CB100), so I didn't have a chance to make progress on the Suzuki.

      -Hamcake
      1982 GS300L
      1970 CB100
      1970 CB100

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        #18
        Well, she's running again, and with lots of power

        Most recent major things I've done:
        - Cleaned the carbs with an ultrasonic cleaner, and carb spray on the jets/tunnels
        - Replaced o-rings on float needle seats
        - Set the float heights
        - Tightened up, and cleaned battery connections (positive terminal was very loose)

        Here's the carbs after sitting in a heated ultrasonic bath with simple green solution for about 30 mins or so. If you need to clean your carbs, find a friend with one of these! I forgot to reattach the fuel/overflow/vacuum lines before I reattached the carbs, so that was finicky putting them in afterward


        The float needle seat in the right carb, was loose - which explains why I was leaking fuel out of the airbox. I've ordered some new o-rings, but it was such amazing weather that I had to do something to solve the problem. Did some creative thinking and sliced some fuel line to make homemade o-rings. Actually a very good fit, and the hardest part was cutting them straight. Only getting very minor leaking from the old float bowl gaskets and a stripped bowl drain screw.


        I think I have some more tweaking to do with the pilot screws, because the RPMs skyrocket when the choke is on -- but at least she's running! Found a very good guide for carb adjustments here: Fixing Common GS500 Carburetor Issues


        So I guess that solves this issue. I don't think it was ever an ignition issue -- it just wasn't sparking because the plugs were getting fouled. I believe the root cause was the right carburetor flooding due to the needle seat falling out.

        -Hamcake
        1982 GS300L
        1970 CB100
        1970 CB100

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