ughhh.. Looks like I'm in the market for a new stator

[JTGS850GL]

Was riding my 1982 GS850GL the other day and noticed that the turn signals would stop working when I'm at idle. Rev the engine and they started blinking again.

Today I went through the electrical system and noticed that the battery voltage would only rise a little above 12.5V when I brought the RPMs up. I checked the output from my R/R and it followed the battery voltage. I then disconnected the R/R and measured the voltage between each phase. Even at 4000 RPM the voltage on any leg went no higher than 65V AC. AT idle I only get ~14V AC and the voltage from leg to ground was between 5v and 10.5V depending on which leg I was measuring.

Just for grins I swapped out R/Rs and still no voltage above 12.5V when the engine is running at 4k RPM.

Pretty much bet that the stator is bad, so now I'm in the market for a new one. It's been a while since I replaced my last stator. At that time the only "best option" was the Rick's Motorsports unit. Any good deals on them? Are there any other options that are now available and deemed good? Just checking before I go out and spend $144 on a Rick's.

[Guest]

I just installed a caltric on my 82 and it is working well. Only around 300 miles. 40.00 plus 7. for a gasket on Amazon.

[Steve]

Another vote for Caltric. Click link.

$33 for the stator, another $5.62 for a gasket. I did not check shipping charges.

.

[JTGS850GL]

Just ordered the Caltric stator, gasket and an oil filter. Total $44.42 for everything and it was free shipping.

[Guest]

Pull the cover. If it is like mine, you will have a lot of scraping to do. And don't forget, even after you take the cover off, there is more oil inside the engine that will spill if you put it on the sidestand. (Don't ask me how I know.)

[Steve]

Put the bike on the centerstand.

Put a 2x4 block under the left foot of the centerstand.

The bike will lean to the right just enough to keep from losing much oil.

.

[Guest]

I was fine until I rolled it back into the garage for the night and walked away.

[JTGS850GL]

Put the bike on the centerstand.

Put a 2x4 block under the left foot of the centerstand.

The bike will lean to the right just enough to keep from losing much oil.

.

I knew that. It's been a year from the last time the oil was changed so I just figured I'd do it at the same time.

Thanks for the help though.

[Wingsconsin]

Following to see what the results of the change will be -
us 850L folks gotta stick together

[posplayr]

The open loop stator voltage is proportional to RPM, so 65VAC at 4K RPM is 65*5/4=81.25 VAC which is well within spec.

You should test the leg-to-ground at 5K to make sure it is zero volts or close. That is the best test for the stator.

[JTGS850GL]

The open loop stator voltage is proportional to RPM, so 65VAC at 4K RPM is 65*5/4=81.25 VAC which is well within spec.

You should test the leg-to-ground at 5K to make sure it is zero volts or close. That is the best test for the stator.

There was the problem. At 4k RPMs two of the legs read 2V but one leg read over 10V to ground. Using two R/R's (one series and one shunt) the charge voltage never exceeded 12.58v at any RPM.

One a side note: What would a series (SH755) regulator read when not connected to any load? I know the Shunt will read full voltage.

[posplayr]

There was the problem. At 4k RPMs two of the legs read 2V but one leg read over 10V to ground. Using two R/R's (one series and one shunt) the charge voltage never exceeded 12.58v at any RPM.

One a side note: What would a series (SH755) regulator read when not connected to any load? I know the Shunt will read full voltage.

Not a good idea to run the R/R while connected to the bike but not the battery.

What it will do when compley disconnected I'm not sure. In general i woudl say "Not Defined", meaning it is design dependent.

When you pull the stator it will likely be heat damaged which caused the breakdown in the insulation.

[JTGS850GL]

Not a good idea to run the R/R while connected to the bike but not the battery.

What it will do when compley disconnected I'm not sure. In general i woudl say "Not Defined", meaning it is design dependent.

When you pull the stator it will likely be heat damaged which caused the breakdown in the insulation.

Just curious because I found that the shunt type regulator outputted 15V with no load but the series type showed 0V on the output. Never ran either on for more than a couple minutes with no load.

I'm pretty sure the stator will show heat damage, as in brown and burnt. It is the original stator and the R/R was a later model FH regulator (same form factor but shunt instead of series as the SH775). Switching over to a new Caltric stator and a replacement SH775BA R/R. No change in wiring since the FH and the 775BA have the same connectors and pinout.

Figure that will be the last time I have to worry about charging issues. The battery is a relatively new AGM battery so that should be OK as well. Comes to full charge on a stand alone charger. Been going over every connector with DOXIT D5. Always have a couple cans of it on hand.

[posplayr]

Just curious because I found that the shunt type regulator outputted 15V with no load but the series type showed 0V on the output. Never ran either on for more than a couple minutes with no load.

I'm pretty sure the stator will show heat damage, as in brown and burnt. It is the original stator and the R/R was a later model series style FH regulator. Switching over to a new Caltric stator and a replacement SH775BA R/R. No change in wiring since the FH and the 775BA have the same connectors and pinout.

Figure that will be the last time I have to worry about charging issues. The battery is a relatively new AGM battery so that should be OK as well. Comes to full charge on a stand alone charger. Been going over every connector with DOXIT D5. Always have a couple cans of it on hand.

IIRC FH is a FET style SHUNT R/R not SERIES.

[JTGS850GL]

Jim, please read what I wrote. I used both a shunt (FA) and a series (SH775) style R/Rs to test the system. One, the (SH775) was available but not installed yet and the other (shunt FH) is being replaced and was still mounted. Noted that the installation will be rather quick since no wiring changes will be needed other than hard wiring the stator to the R/R. Both style R/Rs utilized the same connectors and pinout. Just comparing one v/s the other on a no load condition. Noted that both produced a max voltage of around 12.8V when the output was connected but when run open circuit the FH (shunt) produced 15V while the series (SH775) produced no voltage output. More of an experiment than real empirical data but interesting none the less.

The new stator should arrive today so it looks like my next day off (Tues) will be bike day. Also picked up a pair of tires so those will be mounted as well. Should be ready for summer riding by the end of the day.