Depinning fuse box connector

[Steve]

Done properly, crimping and soldering is a great "belt and braces" situation. However, it is so easy to NOT do it properly, it is usually better to just do a proper crimp job. The tool you got from Vintage Connections is a great one, I use it all the time. In fact, I am about to get a second one, so I don't have to keep changing the dies.

The usual problem with an improperly-soldered connector is that there is too much heat and too much solder applied, which runs up the length of the wire, stiffening the wire and creating a stress point well beyond the connector.

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[posplayr]

Done properly, crimping and soldering is a great "belt and braces" situation. However, it is so easy to NOT do it properly, it is usually better to just do a proper crimp job. The tool you got from Vintage Connections is a great one, I use it all the time. In fact, I am about to get a second one, so I don't have to keep changing the dies.

The usual problem with an improperly-soldered connector is that there is too much heat and too much solder applied, which runs up the length of the wire, stiffening the wire and creating a stress point well beyond the connector.

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Steve is correct it is both easy to screw up the soldering and easy to get it correct.

Excess heat is typically required when you have dirty contacts so make sure they are clean ()Naval jelly and Doxit is great for that).

Also this is a heat sink that is used to stop the solder from running up the wire. There is also clear liquid (like water) flux that will run right into a dirty crimp. Also with the heat sink you can solder from the contact end (warming the contact) and very little solder will travel up the wire.

We are also talking about fine solder (for example 0.025").

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Leaded-Solder-Diameter/dp/B073VRYQVT

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008QPT8R2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/gc-electronics/9077-1/70159795/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp70159795&sc_intid=70159795&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlN32BRCCARIsADZ-J4sCr6iZTxcn0hJowRS1iyOqnqNxNGBl2K_F4TKHL15uqcLezek-RaYaAvSSEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?237763-Recommended-Products-for-Preparing-Electrical-Connenctions&highlight=Corrosion

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/gc-electronics/9077-1/70159795/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp70159795&sc_intid=70159795&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlN32BRCCARIsADZ-J4sCr6iZTxcn0hJowRS1iyOqnqNxNGBl2K_F4TKHL15uqcLezek-RaYaAvSSEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Bob, Steve, Jim, all thanks. This is the stuff I need to know. I’ve started another thread on soldering and getting started with it, learning and practicing.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Jim, in all the useful info you linked, I have a question about the heat sink clamp. (I'm sure they'll be more questions)


Would you clamp the heat sink here where the left arrow is in front of the insulation, and that would stop the solder from flowing up past it into the insulation? Assuming one has managed to properly tin the bare wires properly before crimping?

[posplayr]

For some reason the picture upload is not working. I included a Dropbox link below.

I would typically clamp on top of the strain relief (the band covering the red insulation).

I would put a single drop of liquid flux as shown right at the end of the crimped contact so it can flow up into the crimp and cover the end of the wire.

A small blob of solder at the end of the wire is excellent strain relief and keeps the wire from being pulled out of the crimp. I don't really mean a blob because that implies a cold joint. Just touch the end of your solder wire and it will melt and flow into the crimp. Don't keep feeding it as it will try and flow up into the wire and make it stiff and subject to work hardening. One small drop of solder does a good enough job to block out corrosion in the crimp and not is not enough to flow all the way back up the wire.

Even for an old crimp, a single drop of liquid flux and all it takes is about 2-3 sec of heating and touch a fine piece of solder and you are done. If it blobs up (like a water drop on a waxed car) it is too cold/too dirty.

The fine tipped (semi flat) soldering tip would be on the flat of the contact or right at the cut end of the wire.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0rnvodb79fzlyz2/Soldering2.jpg?dl=0

You don't have to do this on all connectors, it is really only important for charging between R/R and Battery (loss of 0.5-1 V ). Keeping contact clean between fuse box and ignition switch is also good as significant drops (1-2 V) in the ignition switch can have high voltage drops.

Other areas might be a stock headlamp connector that draws 5 amps. Those connectors can get hot which promotes corrosion promoting more heat and it is a vicious cycle.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Great, very helpful, Thank You. Everything is working now but I will be redoing the connections between the Stator/ SH775RR, RR / battery, and Fuse block / ignition in the very near future. I need to take my ignition switch apart and clean everything well in there. Probably sooner than later, I'll get to all the plastic connectors in the headlamp bucket that won't come apart. They don't look melted on the outside, but at some point, I believe excessive resistance heat has fused them together and they will not pull apart.

[Steve]

A small blob of solder at the end of the wire is excellent strain relief and keeps the wire from being pulled out of the crimp. I don't really mean a blob because that implies a cold joint. Just touch the end of your solder wire and it will melt and flow into the crimp. Don't keep feeding it as it will try and flow up into the wire and make it stiff and subject to work hardening. One small drop of solder does a good enough job to block out corrosion in the crimp and not is not enough to flow all the way back up the wire.

This is the most important part to remember about ANY soldering project.

Solder is not the "glue" that holds everything together. You need to make a good mechanical connection, that is the purpose of the crimp. A THIN coat of solder can almost be thought of as a "paint" that will protect the joint to keep it from corroding. In a proper solder joint, you should still be able to see individual strands of the larger wire.

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