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Compufire installation - last question - gs1100 ex

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    Compufire installation - last question - gs1100 ex

    Hi GS Gurus,

    First of all thank you to all contributors for making this site such a resource for all things GS - special thanks to Posplayr for his excellent info on how to improve the chraging system on our bikes.

    I have installed my Compufire reg/rectifier incorporating the improvements to grounds and SPG etc - all fitted but I have one remaining question regarding the + positive output from the Compufire unit. Despite going through all of the posts I can find I am not clear on this final connection and am hoping that someone will be able to point me in the right direction.

    With the OEM unit the poistive output from the reg/rect is connected into the harness and does not go directly to the battery. With the Compufire unit the postive output ordinarily goes to the battery by way of a 40amp inline fused connection as thsi is a HD replacement unit.

    1. Please can someone advise if I should make a shared connection into teh OEM harness AND a direct connection to the battery by way of a 20 amp inline fused connection that way 'sharing' the reg/rectifier output to the harness and battery?

    If this is the case please can you advise what this connection should look like - perhaps a twisted and soldered 'T' connection to ensure a good quality connection is made?

    2. Some posts appear to say just connect into the OEM harness as per the original installation and not connect to the positive battery terminal.

    Apologies if this question has been answered many times but some elements of the previous posts information appear to be missing due to time and now unavailable photo hosting services.

    Thanks in anticipation of your help on this last point.

    Cheers

    Newgsguy

    #2
    Well I too installed a Compufire r/r into my GS1000ET it fit nicely in place of the original. Performed the Posplayr improvements also. ( Thank you sir ) The output from the r/r was connected just as Suzuki did it. Didn't go directly to the battery. Now the voltage readings are easily within specifications, it will show 14 volts from 2k rpm maximum 14.6 overall , plus the Compufire r/r stays nice and cool. Other modifications were made but that's another thread I suppose, get her done and go ride.
    1980 GS1000E

    Comment


      #3
      The R/R + output should go into the stock harness location. The feed Tee's with one leg feeding the bike and the other branch feeding through the fuse box and then to the battery.

      Be sure to check resistance in this path going to the battery. Using a volt meter put one probe on the + output at the R/R and the other on the battery + terminal. If you are seeing more than about .2 volts then you should clean all the connectors in the path to the battery. There will always be a little voltage drop but you want to minimize it as much as possible.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

      Comment


        #4
        Hi Ed

        Thank you very much for your advice - will run the checks you advise and complete my install.

        Much appreciated!

        Cheers


        Newgsguy

        Comment


          #5
          Already answered above but...
          2. Some posts appear to say just connect into the OEM harness as per the original installation and not connect to the positive battery terminal.
          Attaching directly to the harness is more elegant. attaching multiple cables to the battery is a nuisance for battery removal .That's about really. Still,
          As I see it,
          it's the stator and R/R that are providing the power to run your motorcycle. The battery steadies the overall voltage....the charging system keeps the potential at correct level albeit with a ripple, while the battery smooths the ripple in the dips...meanwhile accepting and passing on the higher potential than it would have "at rest" to charge/maintain itself. The regulator works better with a battery smoothing the ripple-otherwise it might be causing the current to cycle in surges per the ripple. Something like this is seen when people run the bike with a disconnected battery..(Peak voltage rises, ignition modules are unhappy, headlight gets bright and pulses at low rpms etc etc)

          attaching at the battery is ok too- it's electrically the same except the path is through the battery's connection to the harness when the bike is running..."before" inthe original config the battery was charged through this path - it is now being charged at the post....meanwhile the harness is now entirely supplied through this wire....no big deal, it was anyways in the original config while the bike was being started... this might have been the thought you had when you questioned

          if I should make a shared connection into teh OEM harness AND a direct connection to the battery by way of a 20 amp inline fused connection that way 'sharing' the reg/rectifier output to the harness and battery?

          No, one wire of adequate gauge connected one of the ways above is fine....If you read the previous you can see why I think so...All the electrons (-)yearning for the + pole have adequate corridors. If you add another corridor it does no harm but no good either as a complication. Think of your house...want to twin a corridor? so they only meet at the ends? Or just make it wider....(adequate gauge) The single path from the R/R is simpler.
          Last edited by Gorminrider; 07-24-2020, 12:00 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            Hi Mustangflyr - thanks for your swift response very much appreciated. The Compufire is a really neat fit on the ET/EX and it was great to hear your positive feedback on the performance you have had from the unit.
            too.

            Looking forward to tidying up this last connection and then, as you have advised, going for a blast on this fantastic bike.

            I have been a Z rider for more than 35 years and I remember how quick these 16 valve engines are from back in the day
            - cannot wait!!

            Cheers

            Comment


              #7
              Hi Gorminrider,

              Thanks for your comprehensive response too - much appreciated.

              Great to have reassurance from very experienced and knowledgeable guys on this forum as I want to achieve best result to get the bike operating as it should.

              My bike is a bog standard EX with 8700 what I believe to be genuine miles on it. I suspect the charging on the OEM kit was an issue early in its life resulting in it being stored away for decades whilst it waited for me to come along.

              Your explanation was very informative and reinforced best practice and why- thanks.

              Cheers

              Newgsguy

              Comment

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