SH775 negative to SPG or directly to negative post on battery?

[mattd1205]

Im in the process of tidying up my grounds on my ‘78 GS750. I currently have the negative output of my SH775 going to the negative post of the battery. I’m considering moving that wire to the ground point on the starter solenoid. All of my connections there are very clean and have low resistance. Would it still be best practice to have it directly connected to the Negative side of the battery?

thanks
Matt

[Nessism]

There may be some theoretical difference in different grounding schemes but in the real world it doesnt matter

[mattd1205]

There may be some theoretical difference in different grounding schemes but in the real world it doesnt matter

thank you Nessism! I was going by your infographic regarding the installation of the SH775 so I try to follow your write ups to a “T”.

thanks again
Matt

[Steve]

I agree on the "in the real world it doesn't matter" theory.

While we are (temporarily) visiting the real world, I like to keep the number of wires at the battery to a minimum, so I tend to gather similar wires (all your ground wires) to a location away from the battery, then run a wire of adequate size to the battery.

On my bikes, there are only two wires at each battery terminal. There is the large ground wire that goes to the back of the engine block and the one that goes to the SPG. On the positive terminal, there is the large one that goes to the starter solenoid. At the other end of that wire (at the solenoid) have the power lead to the fuse box. If you ever have to remove the battery, it is MUCH easier to find just three wires when you put it back in.

.

[mattd1205]

I agree on the "in the real world it doesn't matter" theory.

While we are (temporarily) visiting the real world, I like to keep the number of wires at the battery to a minimum, so I tend to gather similar wires (all your ground wires) to a location away from the battery, then run a wire of adequate size to the battery.

On my bikes, there are only two wires at each battery terminal. There is the large ground wire that goes to the back of the engine block and the one that goes to the SPG. On the positive terminal, there is the large one that goes to the starter solenoid. At the other end of that wire (at the solenoid) have the power lead to the fuse box. If you ever have to remove the battery, it is MUCH easier to find just three wires when you put it back in.

.

perfect! I just moved it over and it’s so much easier dropping the battery in when I don’t have to attach 4 ground terminals to the negative post.

thanks
Matt

[Brendan W]

I like to think of the R/R as a small power station that runs the bike.
It is set up to deliver 14 Volts to the ignition, lights and so on.
If however you have roundabout return currents going from lights to frame to battery negative and only then to the R/R ground there is a high probability that the R/R is not seeing the true system voltage but something above it due to the resistive losses in the ground returns.
Collecting the returns to a single point addresses this to some degree.
The R/R secondary function is to recharge the battery and again if there is a multi leg route between both, the R/R will not have a true measure of the battery voltage and give up charging too early.
My set up is like Steve's. I have an extra wire on each terminal for the permanently wired charging plug the lives behind a side cover.

[Steve]

My set up is like Steve's. I have an extra wire on each terminal for the permanently wired charging plug the lives behind a side cover.

My permanently-wired charging plug is wired to the solenoid terminal for positive and the SPG for negative. Works just as well.

Also, if your "charging plug" is near the front of the seat, it works well to power heated clothing. Does not matter that it's not switched, as it's difficult to leave the clothing attached to the plug when you are not on the bike.

.

[Brendan W]

My permanently-wired charging plug is wired to the solenoid terminal for positive and the SPG for negative. Works just as well.

Also, if your "charging plug" is near the front of the seat, it works well to power heated clothing. Does not matter that it's not switched, as it's difficult to leave the clothing attached to the plug when you are not on the bike.

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Clever. That I am gong to do. Anything to make life easier. I'm still on lead/acid so level checks are a pain.
Difficult to leave clothing yes but there is surely a way within the scope of my genius. There always is
Rarely gets cold here anyway.
Both times I came off the bike was near the end of three hour rides in cold and wet.

[mustangflyr]

On my 1000 advice from this very helpful forum guided me through doing the SPG, checking the connections, installing a Compufire r/r, relays on circuits to unload the switches, and a Motobatt battery ( which has four terminals not two ). So my voltage readings indicate that we have happy volts . Oh right I installed on the battery the leads from my Battery Tender ( the SAE plug set ) this allows the easy voltage readings and a power supply.

[the_koob]

On my 1000 advice from this very helpful forum guided me through doing the SPG.

Handy link here: https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...tion-gs1100-ex

Bravo chaps - great help all around.