Total Electrical Replacement

[Guest]

My 81 GS1000GL is slowly coming back from the dead. She's currently a basket case as I get the frame cleaned up and various components rebuilt. The end result will hopefulyl resemble some sort of cafe build.

While I'm miles away from starting the electrical work, I am trying to plan ahead and figure out what the setup should look like. The preexisting system is headed wholesale into the trash bin. The wiring harness was spaghetti (PO soldered in 5 foot lengths of wire to multiple circuits with no discernable purpose and slashed off every connector), and the bulk of the system is unusable due to either decay or physical damage. Kind of a pain, but also an excuse to do it up right.

The question I have for the group is, given that I already have to replace the CDI, R/R, coils, starter relay, battery, wiring, etc., what, if any, components are worth upgrading when I go to redo the electrical system? I'd like to simplify/hide the electrical in a tray under the seat and likely tuck the battery up under the tail cowl.

Both of my past builds have been Hondas, and I'm still learning the unique quirks of the GS. Any input would be greatly appreciated. And apologies if this has been answered previously. I tried my search skills, but they may not be up to the task.

[Brendan W]

Top of my head you have an opportunity to
Fit a series R/R , SH775 ( genuine) is the herd pick
A modern blade type fusebox
Relay(s) for the headlight and horn
Solid state two pin turn signal flasher
LED tail and idiot lights

[salty_monk]

Fit a Dyna DS3. It doesn't have a separate box so it'll save you some room when you tuck it all away. The Moto gadget stuff is meant to be good (but $$$).

I would upgrade to a PC-8 or something similar if I was starting from scratch... https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/W...PC-8/pc-8.html

[Guest]

Top of my head you have an opportunity to
Fit a series R/R , SH775 ( genuine) is the herd pick
A modern blade type fusebox
Relay(s) for the headlight and horn
Solid state two pin turn signal flasher
LED tail and idiot lights

Awesome, thanks for the input!

[Guest]

Fit a Dyna DS3. It doesn't have a separate box so it'll save you some room when you tuck it all away. The Moto gadget stuff is meant to be good (but $$$).

I would upgrade to a PC-8 or something similar if I was starting from scratch... https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/W...PC-8/pc-8.html

If I'm understanding you right, the Dyna DS3 would do away with the CDI?

ANd that PC-8 looks pretty slick. I've looked at the Moto gadget stuff, but you're right, good but definitely not cheap!

[salty_monk]

Yep exactly The CDI's have been known to go bad and the Dyna's are pretty damn reliable. You may find a "concourse" buyer for your existing one on Ebay / Facebook...

[Guest]

Yep exactly The CDI's have been known to go bad and the Dyna's are pretty damn reliable. You may find a "concourse" buyer for your existing one on Ebay / Facebook...

I like it. Thanks for the info! Though you should be aware that when my wife asks why I've spent a couple hundred more on parts for a side project that was supposed to be cheap, I'm absolutely going to blame you. Thanks for taking the fall for me.

[salty_monk]

Thanks for taking the fall for me.

That salty_monk guy gets the blame for lots of things...

It's cheaper than a tow home

Oh and if you're looking to save space... the Anti gravity batteries are very well thought of (not necessarily here but in other circles). No affiliation. I think there is a Winter discount code, you'll probably find it on ADVrider forum.

[free99]

May I strongly suggest:

1. That you make a wiring diagram? https://draw.io or visio
2. Label the wires per said diagram: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Wi...-102/100118882
3. For any connections which you don't anticipate disconnecting for service reasons, I suggest using harbor fright's "marine butt connectors" (lol), they are traditional crimps, but lined with hot glue so that they not only stress relieve the crimp within, but also prevent any water/fluid reaching the crimp.
4. Use waterproof (e.g. weatherpak or their Asian knockoff) connectors. Kit'll run you $13
5. Use a dab of silicone/dielectric grease on any terminals or spade connectors which cannot be adequately shielded (e.g. the starter solenoid spade terminals, etc) to prevent oxidation

I'm sure you know at least a few, if not all of these. Perhaps it's helpful though. You'll be quite a bit happier down the line if/when you need to change or fix something.

[Guest]

May I strongly suggest:

1. That you make a wiring diagram? https://draw.io or visio
2. Label the wires per said diagram: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Wi...-102/100118882
3. For any connections which you don't anticipate disconnecting for service reasons, I suggest using harbor fright's "marine butt connectors" (lol), they are traditional crimps, but lined with hot glue so that they not only stress relieve the crimp within, but also prevent any water/fluid reaching the crimp.
4. Use waterproof (e.g. weatherpak or their Asian knockoff) connectors. Kit'll run you $13
5. Use a dab of silicone/dielectric grease on any terminals or spade connectors which cannot be adequately shielded (e.g. the starter solenoid spade terminals, etc) to prevent oxidation

I'm sure you know at least a few, if not all of these. Perhaps it's helpful though. You'll be quite a bit happier down the line if/when you need to change or fix something.

appreciate all the tips! Hadn’t considered looking for wire labels and I’ll definitely look into the marine butt connectors. Thanks!

[Nessism]

I converted a 1000L harness to work in a 1000S, which is totally different. It wasn't difficult once you get over your fear. Remove the harness wrap (which, BTW, is NOT electrical tape) and then start tracing each signal path. It helps if you have a large table to stretch out the harness on. Reason for mentioning this is to encourage you to take on the harness rebuild. It's not difficult as long as you are willing to use a wiring diagram and take an ohm meter and trace circuits.

[red1100]

How about splicing in a tight space,under ground vault,a couple of thousand pair cables, that's 2000 26ga wires and you're working two pair from the interagency 911 system.Don't slip with that knife.

[Guest]

How about splicing in a tight space,under ground vault,a couple of thousand pair cables, that's 2000 26ga wires and you're working two pair from the interagency 911 system.Don't slip with that knife.

I’m afraid my skills are better compared to Karl slicing though conduit with a chainsaw at Nakatomi Plaza.