Well...

[timebombprod]

I'm hoping it has to do with the turn signal, I've noticed when the turn signal acts fine the bike acts fine, and when the signal doesnt want to fully work or work very slow, the bike will start acting up on me

[timebombprod]

Okay so, before I start the bike, I'm just gonna say my turn signals are acting right, so if my bike has no short going on, I guess that should be the issue. Forgot to add I just pushed the turn signal piece in the wire, probably was a tiny bit loose

The only other thing I have done is turn the pilot screws out half a turn because my plugs arent looking well, and cut the fuel line a bit because a newly added fuel filter caused kink. We'll see what happens

[timebombprod]

Here is the video, short/skip at :16, :28, :30, :39, 1:06, 1:12, 1:26, 1:32, 1:38.

https://youtu.be/hk5D4ifQqo0

Noticed when it does that the ignition wires that come from dyna S and connect to the coil wires do shake when it happens, maybe just because it's not tied down and the shirt causes a bit if a shake.

Everytine the short happens the bike drops a little, but doesnt stay down.

Dont rule out stuff that's mechanical, it very well could be a mechanical problem.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

You gotta stop messing with more than one thing at a time. Leave the carbs alone. You haven’t run it enough to evaluate plug color/fouling. Why add a fuel filter into the mix, which could cause fuel flow issues that you didn’t have before. Slow down. If you think your problem is electrical/ignition related. Sort that. Get it running, then you can tune, if the bench sync I’m assuming the shop you recently had do carb work doesn’t prove to be exactly where you want things.

[LAB3]

You gotta stop messing with more than one thing at a time.

We've been telling him that for a year now....

[grcamna2]

I watched the Youtube and that 'snap' sound almost sounds like a spark could be leaking or jumping from one of your coils or coil wires to the frame.I would consider removing the fuel tank and set-up a remote fuel supply suspended on the handlebars,etc. to gravity feed the carbs,block-off the vacuum line(check for a vacuum leaks also?)and run it in a low-light place to see if you may have a spark jumping off your coils/wires. imo.
Be careful with a remote tank so it doesn't leak,keep the fittings to the fuel line tight.Do you have any members near you who might lend assistance to help with this process ?

[timebombprod]

You gotta stop messing with more than one thing at a time. Leave the carbs alone. You haven’t run it enough to evaluate plug color/fouling. Why add a fuel filter into the mix, which could cause fuel flow issues that you didn’t have before. Slow down. If you think your problem is electrical/ignition related. Sort that. Get it running, then you can tune, if the bench sync I’m assuming the shop you recently had do carb work doesn’t prove to be exactly where you want things.

Was told to add the filter, wasnt my idea

I'm just gonna leave pilot screws where they are at for now i just did half a turn and they were at 2 1/2

[timebombprod]

Be careful with a remote tank so it doesn't leak,keep the fittings to the fuel line tight.Do you have any members near you who might lend assistance to help with this process ?

Probably not

In weeki watchi florida

[timebombprod]

I watched the Youtube and that 'snap' sound almost sounds like a spark could be leaking or jumping from one of your coils or coil wires to the frame.I would consider removing the fuel tank and set-up a remote fuel supply suspended on the handlebars,etc. to gravity feed the carbs,block-off the vacuum line(check for a vacuum leaks also?)and run it in a low-light place to see if you may have a spark jumping off your coils/wires. imo.
Be careful with a remote tank so it doesn't leak,keep the fittings to the fuel line tight.Do you have any members near you who might lend assistance to help with this process ?

Forgot to add that was me on throttle, let off at the end. Was making sure short wouldnt shut it off

[grcamna2]

Forgot to add that was me on throttle, let off at the end. Was making sure short wouldnt shut it off

I had a bike from someone I was working on before:we installed the high power coils and later it seems the silicone 'automotive type' wires were loosing spark somewhere and a couple of the connections where we crimped-on other ends after shortening the wires.There was spark jumping to a frame bracket and it had similar feedback as yours is doing.

[timebombprod]

I had a bike from someone I was working on before:we installed the high power coils and later it seems the silicone 'automotive type' wires were loosing spark somewhere and a couple of the connections where we crimped-on other ends after shortening the wires.There was spark jumping to a frame bracket and it had similar feedback as yours is doing.

How was it repaired?

[alke46]

If you are going to try this, remember to have some fans running on the engine. You might have to have it running a while so don't let the engine overheat.

[timebombprod]

If you are going to try this, remember to have some fans running on the engine. You might have to have it running a while so don't let the engine overheat.

All good I know the drill....(unfortunately)

[grcamna2]

How was it repaired?

I replaced the graphite core 'auto spec' ignition wires with good copper-core(like oem has)ignition wires that had very good quality boots on both ends.That was a while back and I went to this foreign auto parts place that had good quality plug terminals also;I believe it was Carquest back when I lived in Bethlehem,PA in 2011'.

[timebombprod]

I replaced the graphite core 'auto spec' ignition wires with good copper-core(like oem has)ignition wires that had very good quality boots on both ends.That was a while back and I went to this foreign auto parts place that had good quality plug terminals also;I believe it was Carquest back when I lived in Bethlehem,PA in 2011'.

So the wires that come from the igniter to the coilpacks?

Just making sure, I dont have the igniter anymore but just makes easier to picture what I'm talking about.

The one thing that hasn't been replaced for the ignition system are those wires.

Better to open harness or just tie them off and run a new set? Only challenge for me will be making the 12v connection for the hot wires