I explain "voltage drop" to myself as:Since the multimeter's "ohms" reading is really derived from a voltage drop using the meter's tiny battery anyways, the tiny meter's battery cannot always supply enough current to make a voltage drop measureable.
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Originally posted by Forden View Post
...So your meter actually reads the voltage that the circuit between the probes CAN’T handle.
I explain "voltage drop" to myself as:Since the multimeter's "ohms" reading is really derived from a voltage drop using the meter's tiny battery anyways, the tiny meter's battery cannot always supply enough current to make a voltage drop measureable.
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Originally posted by Forden View PostThanks all, incredibly helpful. I'll start digging in this afternoon. Time to bust out the glasses for the wiring diagram...
Didn't know this. So in the case of the kill switch, my touch points would be would be where orange and yellow/green connect to the switch? Test with key and switch both on?
My meter is not top of the range and I am suspicious of it's resistance measurements.
I would be more confident of voltage readings so I clean until the volts are good.97 R1100R
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80 GS850G, 79 Z400B, 85 R100RT, 80 Z650D, 76 CB200
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Originally posted by Gorminrider View PostYes, and since I now know your bike has points, rotate the engine so that points are closed.
Making good progress, got a bunch of contacts cleaned or respliced, replacing some more connections today. The kill switch assembly was indeed full of crud, and the 3-way plug connector basically crumbled when I pulled it apart.
Taking the opportunity to wire back in the original turn signals, too--for some reason the PO swapped them out for some crappy plastic aftermarket ones. Go figure.1978 GS 750 E
1979 XS11 Standard
1973 CB450
1999 VFR800
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Originally posted by Gorminrider View Post
That's an interesting explanation!
I explain "voltage drop" to myself as:Since the multimeter's "ohms" reading is really derived from a voltage drop using the meter's tiny battery anyways, the tiny meter's battery cannot always supply enough current to make a voltage drop measureable.
As an example, take a multiple stranded battery cable with only one strand of wire still in tact.
The ohm meter’s tiny battery puts out so little current that it will show no resistance over that one good strand of wire.
But switch to the voltage scale and engage the starter so that the circuit is drawing say 100 amps, and the voltage drop over that one good strand of wire will be nearly full battery voltage!!
Returning now to the discussion at hand..........Jim, in Central New York State.
1980 GS750E (bought used June,1983)
1968 CB350 Super Sport (bought new Oct,1968)
1962 CA77 305 Dream (bought used Feb,1963)
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Ok, things seem to be improving--I'm still losing voltage, but less.
What I did:
-disassembled and cleaned both kill switch and ignition switch assemblys
-all new connections for both switches at junctions behind headlight
-cleaned all battery connections and grounds, new positive 6 gauge wire and terminals
-cleaned starter relay connections
-new connections both sides of main fuse
Results:
12.6 - 13V at battery (trickle charger overnight)
11.5 at positive lead to coils at rest (orange/white wire connection to neg. battery terminal)
10.5 at positive lead to coils while cranking
Voltage drop tests:
Ignition switch seems ok: Orange to Red .01, Gr to Br .00
O/W wire, from kill switch junction to coil junction: .15
G/Y wire, from starter relay to kill switch junction: .00
Kill Switch, both key and switch on (need help here):
O - O/W: .46 - .9 (got a few different readings)
O - Y/G: 12.3
Y/G - O/W: 11.85
Seems like the kill switch is a likely culprit, but I cleaned it thoroughly and respliced all three wires, so not sure what else to do there. Or did I miss something else?
Thanks so much for the help.
Mike1978 GS 750 E
1979 XS11 Standard
1973 CB450
1999 VFR800
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The kill switch can be problematic -beyond any cleaning you can do, they wear out too. I've had to take them completely apart and um-"rebuild" them. Or (horrors!) actually replace them!
...But perhaps at this point a "refresh" would be nice. How does the bike start and run? That is, If you think the kill switch is causing a "weak spark" and "poor running", just short it out to see if that improves the symptoms.
And then, there's your battery: It's the main factor when starting. If you need to recharge it every time you start the bike, and you are actively riding the bike* it's time to get a new one
A battery that charges up and after resting with no loads for 24 hours and shows 12.3 volts is just about 1/2 its brand new capacity...can be perfectly useful on a bike given they are good everywhere else, except , like an aging parent, likely to fall over when you're not looking. It's on it's way out.
* wait til next spring if you are not actively riding the bike.
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Originally posted by Gorminrider View PostThe kill switch can be problematic -beyond any cleaning you can do, they wear out too. I've had to take them completely apart and um-"rebuild" them. Or (horrors!) actually replace them!
Originally posted by Gorminrider View Post...But perhaps at this point a "refresh" would be nice. How does the bike start and run? That is, If you think the kill switch is causing a "weak spark" and "poor running", just short it out to see if that improves the symptoms.
Originally posted by Gorminrider View PostAnd then, there's your battery: It's the main factor when starting. If you need to recharge it every time you start the bike, and you are actively riding the bike* it's time to get a new one
A battery that charges up and after resting with no loads for 24 hours and shows 12.3 volts is just about 1/2 its brand new capacity...can be perfectly useful on a bike given they are good everywhere else, except , like an aging parent, likely to fall over when you're not looking. It's on it's way out.
Even if the rich running proves to be strictly a fuel/air issue, I'm glad I'm learning and taking the time to assess the electrical health of the bike.1978 GS 750 E
1979 XS11 Standard
1973 CB450
1999 VFR800
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1 volt loss is too much for sure!-I assume you removed the rivets and re-riveted to "rebuild"?
...a few notes: look up "burnishing contacts" It's a step up from cleaning solvents that generally do nothing but you might even end up with trying to build up worn areas with a coat of solder that can work for awhile.
These particular toggle switches were not great. They seem to get out of alignment somehow. Even replacing them with used parts from another suzuki is not a sure thing...merely as a thought, if you happen to hoard things like home appliance switches ,they have a lot in common and, it might be a place to look.
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Took the switch apart and cleaned the contacts--managed to break a little piece off the fiber side of the switch but glued it back and seemed to hold. Replaced the rivets with some small screws and nuts but managed to save the spacers between the two sides of the switch.
Now with battery at 12.5v I am getting 11.7 at the coils. So success, if not perfection, yes? Maybe a new battery would show even better numbers.
Thanks everyone!1978 GS 750 E
1979 XS11 Standard
1973 CB450
1999 VFR800
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If a switch shows 0 ohms resistance, why would it still lose voltage? My kill switch is still losing nearly a volt (most of what the circuit is losing), despite being disassembled, burnished and fitted with new connections. It was showing 1 -2 ohms before but now reading zero. Should power not flow unimpeded if there is no resistance there?
Thanks all.1978 GS 750 E
1979 XS11 Standard
1973 CB450
1999 VFR800
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Because ohms isn’t the best method for determining voltage loss.
Voltage loss is really dependent on the amount of current flowing through a circuit.
The tiny tiny amount of current your DMM puts out in ohm mode doesn’t really tax the circuit under test.
Load the circuit as it is loaded under normal use, and put your DMM in DC volts mode, with the probes on each end of the portion of the circuit you want to test for voltage drop (i,e, voltage loss), and read the drop on your meter.
And remember voltage drop occurs on both the power side and ground side of a circuit.
A circuit will drop 100% of the voltage available to the circuit.
So, with the coil flowing current, you can put your meter probes on the battery positive post and the coil positive post and read the voltage dropped on the power side of the coil circuit.
Then put the meter probes on the coil’s power post and the coil’s ground post and read the voltage dropped through the coil primary circuit.
Finally, put your meter probes on the coil ground post and the battery’s negative post and read the volts dropped on the ground side of the coil circuit.
The sum of those three readings will be the total voltage available to the circuit.
Your objective is to drop as little voltage as possible on the power side and ground side of the circuit, and drop all the voltage you can across the coil itself. Really wakes up the ignition system ;-)Jim, in Central New York State.
1980 GS750E (bought used June,1983)
1968 CB350 Super Sport (bought new Oct,1968)
1962 CA77 305 Dream (bought used Feb,1963)
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This thread got me checking my wiring on 1982 gs550e (UK bike) as I suspect I also have a bit of a weak spark.
I had 12.4v at the battery and going into the ignition switch but it drops to 11.5v coming out of the ignition switch and goes down to under 10.5v at the coil, turning lights on drops it to 9.7v. (I checked at coils with engine running and it increased a little bit but my multi meter reading was bouncing around a bit)
At the fuses, I again get 12.4 from the battery fed fuse and 11.5 on the ignition fed fuses
Generally, what sort of voltage should I aim for at the coils?
Is it usual to lose a volt in the ignition switch?
CheersLast edited by ajh; 09-26-2021, 10:06 AM.
1982 GS550Ez, 1980 Yam RD350LC 4L0, 1980 Yam DT175, 1977 Yam RD250D(Sold)
London UK
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Originally posted by ajh View PostThis thread got me checking my wiring on 1982 gs550e (UK bike) as I suspect I also have a bit of a weak spark.
I had 12.4v at the battery and going into the ignition switch but it drops to 11.5v coming out of the ignition switch and goes down to under 10.5v at the coil, turning lights on drops it to 9.7v. (I checked at coils with engine running and it increased a little bit but my multi meter reading was bouncing around a bit)
At the fuses, I again get 12.4 from the battery fed fuse and 11.5 on the ignition fed fuses
Generally, what sort of voltage should I aim for at the coils?
Is it usual to lose a volt in the ignition switch?
Cheers
I would be aiming for no more than one volt below battery at the coils.
The internal contacts of both switches are most likely dirty.
Given the age of these machines, losses are usual in one sense.
However they need not be tolerated and cleaning up will improve things a lot.97 R1100R
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80 GS850G, 79 Z400B, 85 R100RT, 80 Z650D, 76 CB200
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Might be worth looking closely at the solder joint. Check voltage either side. I would almost always us a crimp in preference. If the wires are not supported you have the possibility that they crack where bendy meets not bendy.97 R1100R
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80 GS850G, 79 Z400B, 85 R100RT, 80 Z650D, 76 CB200
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