Poltergeist in my wiring for Halloween!

[salty_monk]

Yeah it's for my skunk but I do have 1100E flashers fitted (the only difference is they have a running light in the front which the originals don't, I'm using the spare accessory brown that sits in the headlight bucket to power the running lights).

With the relay I'm basically taking the ignition switch out of all the fused circuits by using the original orange wire as a switch wire & pulling fused power to the relay from elsewhere. This should take ignition switch etc out of the loop which is where most voltage loss occurs..

Basically instead of a "relay mod" I'm doing an "all switched circuits mod".

Given that my fusebox has had issues from running RR back to battery +ve direct I want to emulate the stock wiring by putting it back in the supply to the switched loads. As stock it would be on the Red wire feeding the switch but that circuit now has virtually zero load as it's only switching the relay on pin 85. "Red - Ignition key- Orange - Pin 85"
I am assuming therefor that I have to attach the RR +ve to Pin 30 in the new diagram to share the load as it would as stock.

Otherwise it will only be "T"d into the switch wire power circuit (to the relay) rather than the circuit actually doing the powering.....

[salty_monk]

Wiring-diag-colour-suzuki-gs1000-DG.jpg Hmm message too short. Lets see if you can see this...

[salty_monk]

Capture.JPG A close up of just the modified section

[Gorminrider]

I can see the second mod section...the first diagram hasn't enough resolution. my opinion will probably not be wanted because I don't like small relays in crucial functions...even a larger relay: ie: A starting solenoid is an excellent rugged relay, but I would not leave it "on" to run the bike.("on" requiring an energized coil ) . I'd trust a clunky toggle switch much more, to switch red to orange near the fuse box or near the existing key switch.

In either case, you will still want to duplicate the lighting circuit that turns on the lights but that is pretty easy.

My fondness for toggle switches aside, I'm wondering if you can return to the core issue? the key switch?- and replace it or repair it...many do come apart. But I'll look back into the thread. I've probably lost the plot.

[salty_monk]

It's the fuse box I'm replacing not the key switch.... problem caused by overheating & seemingly causing a short - red to orange - (I can't see inside the fusebox case as I "potted" it with epoxy years ago when something similar happened).

I've been running a relay to switch the ignition coils on GS bikes for more than a dozen years (and 4 or 5 different GS's) and touch wood never had one go bad.... I always keep a spare tied up to the frame somewhere in case of failure along with some fuses.
Years ago I used to keep a 2" piece of wire with 2 spades on the end so worse case I could "hotwire" the coils using that as a jumper (pin 30 joined to pin 87). Not sure what happened to that... never needed it except for experimental purposes.

Modern bikes also basically do it too... my Husky has energized relays for the fuel pump, lighting and other ancillaries.

[Gorminrider]

...buut, then,if the problem is the fusebox, isn't it even more baroque to "fix " a fusebox with a relay? rather than a new fusebox? They are cheap.

...Modern bikes also basically do it too... my Husky has energized relays for the fuel pump, lighting and other ancillaries...

But these are single circuits- not the whole bike... and, while a car may profit from a relay for lights but that's 2 headlights,2 tailights and whatever else on much longer wiring routes...an 80's bike is a simple creature by comparison.

Given that my fusebox has had issues from running RR back to battery +ve direct

um. Is that a "given"? While it's not elegant, being a longer and an extra piece of wire , it really shouldn't matter to the electrons if they power the bike through the main fuse or through a tap to Red on the "other side" of it.

*mind you, that does point to cars as sources for reliable relays

[salty_monk]

That one is answered higher up in this thread. Have a look at post 10. Yep it's a given
I have a new fuse box, I could have easily just plumbed it in the way I had things working for the last 12 years but re-directed the RR but I thought I'd try something different. The different way gets rid of any age old resistance in the ignition switch as well as taking out some of the associated wiring that I've also been running hot....

Luckily I have Posplayr personal email so I was able to pick his brains too... this has been done before (albeit with a compufire RR rather than a SH775)and he sent me the diag. Anyway... long story short he's in agreement with my revised circuit and the new fusebox so I'm going to move ahead & report back any ill findings!

As the PC is one screw terminals it will actually be pretty easy to wire the relay back out of the equation at any stage should I want to.

image001.jpg

[Gorminrider]

Well, be happy. And I do agree the stator's output is "better" as designed.
...but need say that since the main fuse starts the bike from the battery, it's capable of running the bike too. It nor its connections should not get hot however long it runs the bike if the connections are good. Several people here can tell a story of getting home on the battery alone when their charging system failed. I don't recall anyone saying their fusebox failed, let alone their fuse which is designed to burn out long before the fuse holder and connections could.
I have a feeling the predicates are incorrect in all this but I suppose it'll work even if I don't like it.
I'm not sure what "excess" is in post 10. The whole motorcycle has the same voltage. Every component takes a portion of the total powere available determined by its resistance to voltage. That includes the battery, Usually, soon after starting, a good battery tapers to a trickle.

[salty_monk]

I figured I'd complete the circle with pics of the final install.. The bike is running as well as it ever did. Lights are brighter too...

GS1000 Eastern a beaver PC8 install by salty_monk

GS1000 Eastern a beaver PC8 install

These are prior to final arrangement & cable tie of the wires etc but general position & all the connections are here. My extra connection at the bottom is the Dyna S on it's own fuse. The blue is actually an extension to the O/W.

I changed the fuse ratings a little after this but essentially it's as you see. (I was reminded by Posplayr that the fuse is there to protect the wiring not the device so I changed the old main to a 15amp fuse, the new main to a 20amp fuse & the Dyna S circuit to a 5amp fuse as it's power wire is tiny).

The double red are the stock connections for the old fuseblock (Main) and it's "t" connection to the RR. Both are connected here to save blanking off the "T" connection. These now just supply power to the ignition switch which in turn goes to orange and is the switched live of the relay (current draw is very low)

The main fuse is now the one inline right next to the solenoid. This means that only the feed to the Solenoid from the battery is now unfused (and I have plenty of "rub" protection around that wire too). That line supplies Pin 30 and the unswitched feed to the PC8. The RR is T'd into that line with a Positap connector (the 2nd one is the Pin 30 connection). The switched circuits are now powered by Pin 87 (yellow in my case).

The bolt for the mounting plate is being used as my "SPG" single point ground which ties everything together & back to the frame using 10awg wire. The only ground I am pulling from the PC8 are the ground for the relay (switching current only goes through there) and the ground for an SAE connector which isn't yet connected in my photo.