SH775 + Lithium-ion battery

[Rijko]

OK, just wanted to share.

My buddy and i have a GS1000 project where a lithium-ion battery was used
because we needed something small enough to hide the battery in the tail section.
So, we hooked up all electrical including the SH-775 and worked on other projects.

This had been standing for at least 2 months, maybe 10 weeks.
When we could work on the bike again, we noticed the battery was really low.

Most of you will probably never experience this issue :
because you drive the bike more often, or have your battery on a trickle charger.

For a Li-ion battery the advice is to let it be for a month or 2 or even longer,
then hit it with a charge cycle.
This differs from lead or gel batteries, that benefit more from shorter periods
between charge cycles or a battery tender/trickle charger.

All we measured was a leak current of 1.1 mA (measured on a cheap-ass 5$ multimeter - YMMV)
Turned out this was drawn by the SH-775.

The temporary fix we used is a 40A relais between the positive from SH-775 to
battery, the relais being activated with a switched positive.
So as soon as the contact is activated, the relais closes and allows the
SH-775 to send power to the battery.
This way when the contact is switched off, the SH-775 cannot draw power anymore.

I did not have a large diode at hand but will replace the relais with one later.
Less wires, more elegant solution imho.

[Brendan W]

The 775 cuts off at about 14.4 so should in theory be okay for a Lithium battery.
Lithium does not like ripple and if the 775 is drawing it could be a leg has gone open which apart from being a bad idea will lead to a lot of ripple and undercharging.
Check the ripple with the meter set to AC at the battery terminals.
I would check the legs of the unit and if one has failed replace it with a Lithium friendly R/R.

https://adventuremotorcycle.com/tech-n-tips/rmstator-mosfet-voltage-regulator

[Rijko]

This bike was fitted with a brand new
Caltric, SH-775 and battery and we have
not started the engine yet.

So i would not expect failure in
components yet.

I have checked on my own bike
with the same setup that is several
years old and discovered the same
leak current.

I am building a GS1000 with the same
setup including a M-Unit ... will
check if it is the same.

[salty_monk]

I'm running an SH775 on a Husqvarna TE610 with a Shorai LFX in it & no problems as yet..... I've never noticed a draw from any of my bikes from an RR but I have seen a big thread on the XS650 Forum where Posplayr was discussing it with someone. Seemed like his diagnosis was the same, something internally in the RR was shot...

[Rijko]

I'm running an SH775 on a Husqvarna TE610 with a Shorai LFX in it & no problems as yet..... I've never noticed a draw from any of my bikes from an RR but I have seen a big thread on the XS650 Forum where Posplayr was discussing it with someone. Seemed like his diagnosis was the same, something internally in the RR was shot...

Good to know, thanks.
Will try to find that thread.

[salty_monk]

Pretty sure it was a bounce from a post on one of his SSPB threads.... Start here http://www.xs650.com/threads/solid-s...0.33037/page-2

[uk gs nut]

This bike was fitted with a brand new
Caltric, SH-775 and battery and we have
not started the engine yet.

Caltric make SH775 ??. I thought it was Shindengen, just my thoughts.
Oops !. Only had 1 coffee this morning, still half asleep. Caltric stator. Apologies folks.

[GabrielGoes]

I'm running an SH775 on a Husqvarna TE610 with a Shorai LFX in it & no problems as yet..... I've never noticed a draw from any of my bikes from an RR but I have seen a big thread on the XS650 Forum where Posplayr was discussing it with someone. Seemed like his diagnosis was the same, something internally in the RR was shot...

any chance you could provide charging volt #'s whenever you get a chance? I'm running a brand new Shorai + SH775 (I tried 2) and they only output about a low 13.3ish Volts even when revv'd up.

The battery has never gone low on me, can go for many miles with the light on the whole time, and gauges do get brighter as i rev from idle. It behaves how it should however i'm not getting the magic 14.5 volts #

I have also read from DAKOTA (Lithium) batteries company that charging systems must meet 14.5 volts for their lithium batteries...

I can further troubleshoot by changing to a standard battery for testing and also possibly troubleshoot the stator itself but just wanted to know what #'s you were getting

[GabrielGoes]

This bike was fitted with a brand new
Caltric, SH-775 and battery and we have
not started the engine yet.

So i would not expect failure in
components yet.

I have checked on my own bike
with the same setup that is several
years old and discovered the same
leak current.

I am building a GS1000 with the same
setup including a M-Unit ... will
check if it is the same.

Caltric by the way is known to be horrid chinese quality

[Rijko]

Caltric by the way is known to be horrid chinese quality

I guess that depends on who you ask .... a lot of members here have used them for many years without issues.
Usually in combination with a SH-775 which keeps the stator cooler.

If you ask me - i have used the Caltrics for many years now and not one of them shows issues.
But that's with a fully refurbished cable loom, connectors, handlebar switches, etc - which surely helps.

I have used Shindengen SH-775, Rick's or Compufire R/R but believe that original stuff will keep on working
if maintenance is done properly.
I have 10 GS1000 bikes with original setup, from contact points and sparkelators to cable loom, regulator and rectifier.
They work flawlessly.
But that's with a fully refurbished cable loom, connectors, handlebar switches, etc - which surely helps.

[GabrielGoes]

I guess that depends on who you ask .... a lot of members here have used them for many years without issues.
Usually in combination with a SH-775 which keeps the stator cooler.

If you ask me - i have used the Caltrics for many years now and not one of them shows issues.
But that's with a fully refurbished cable loom, connectors, handlebar switches, etc - which surely helps.

I have used Shindengen SH-775, Rick's or Compufire R/R but believe that original stuff will keep on working
if maintenance is done properly.
I have 10 GS1000 bikes with original setup, from contact points and sparkelators to cable loom, regulator and rectifier.
They work flawlessly.
But that's with a fully refurbished cable loom, connectors, handlebar switches, etc - which surely helps.

I take my statement back then since you have had experience with it, if the stator actually looks to be well made with good epoxy coating etc than what can I say? I just always did Google searches on the product with many bad reviews but not all of that can be true..

With scarcity of parts maybe caltrics will have to soon be the option to go with.

Nice, do your new looms have color matching wires to the oem suzuki wiring?

If so where do you get them? I've been thinking about re making my harness from teflon wiring but haven't found a good source yet.

[Rijko]

Nice, do your new looms have color matching wires to the oem suzuki wiring?

If so where do you get them? I've been thinking about re making my harness from teflon wiring but haven't found a good source yet.

Yes, my looms have the original wire colors.
There's a specialised Suzuki GS bike breaker, he throws away many cable looms.
Some nice, some butchered - all of them great donors.
Every now and then i take 5 or 10 of those, most GS/GSX bikes and many later models used
the same wires and connectors.

If possible i replace the whole wire and connector for an original one.
If not possible i use a donor wire and solder it to the loom, splicing the strands into each other
and put shrink tube over the repair. Where possible i make sure to cut the loom side wire back until the repair
disappears into the sleeve so the repair is invisible.
I replace hardened and discoloured parts of the loom by wires from donor looms, still lots of supple original
wires with fresh new colors to be found that lived out their life inside a sleeve.

Many of the throw away looms have the same sleeves, on most of my bikes the sleeves had hardened in
places and will break instead of bend. Now they are nice and supple again.

Takes a lot of time and patience but you can get a loom back to a perfect looking and working piece.