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Top 10 Newbie Mistakes

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    #76
    Originally posted by ndbaker View Post
    n) Buying a $100 carb sync tool.
    A good carb sync tool is essential for these bikes.

    Comment


      #77
      Perhaps he means buying one instead of building one. Still an arguable point, I guess, but I can at least see the point of view.
      Dogma
      --
      O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David

      Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan

      --
      '80 GS850 GLT
      '80 GS1000 GT
      '01 ZRX1200R

      How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex

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        #78
        Anyone recall a MAP sensor which outputs voltage/resistance rather than frequency? If so, a MAP sensor from an automotive Pick-a-Part might be a useful tool for someone who does not own a purpose built sync tool..

        I'll try to remember to ask some of my old tool customers, unless someone has the answer.

        Comment


          #79
          I may be a noob but this thread makes me realize just how much of a noob! So far on the main list I am going to have to adjust the valves, clean/replace brake system, inspect/reinforce charging system wiring, test the stator regulator and rectifier, replace the fuel petcock, change the oil (again with the right kind), and replace the front tire/valve stem. And if I get bored the intake boots n stuff since it doesn't act like it has an air leak right now.

          Very helpful thread and the only one deserving of my first post.

          Comment


            #80
            Originally posted by The_Flash View Post
            I may be a noob but this thread makes me realize just how much of a noob! So far on the main list I am going to have to adjust the valves, clean/replace brake system, inspect/reinforce charging system wiring, test the stator regulator and rectifier, replace the fuel petcock, change the oil (again with the right kind), and replace the front tire/valve stem. And if I get bored the intake boots n stuff since it doesn't act like it has an air leak right now.

            Very helpful thread and the only one deserving of my first post.
            Great to have you, welcome aboard.

            What kind of 'wrong' oil did you use?

            Comment


              #81
              Of course Flash, we could sure use a post about yourself and your bike now....



              HINT HINT
              Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

              1981 GS550T - My First
              1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
              2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

              Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
              Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
              and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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                #82
                is jetting always needed when you change to aftermarket pipes

                Thinking of getting a 4 to1 pipe.

                Comment


                  #83
                  Welcome

                  Great to have you aboard there a lot of GREAT people to meet and help you with anything. Stay in touch. WELCOME, WELCOME, WELCOME.

                  I am new myself
                  Last edited by Guest; 05-28-2012, 11:25 AM.

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                    #84
                    Don't yell at me. I used Valvoline 10W-40 for cars. And I will be going to 10W-40 Spectro Golden4 after heavy research.

                    Comment


                      #85
                      Is it ok to use synthetic blends in these engines? I am trying to find a gOod oil to use in my 82 1100gl, and I figure that an older engine like that probably wasn't built for a fully synthetic blend nor was the clutch. Although I am probably mistaken, that depends on when synthetic became prevalent. I am trying to use the search engine to find a discussion of oils, but not much luck so far.

                      -Manual (clymer) says 10-40 rated SE. Does SE mean synthetic?
                      -this thread says to use diesel engine oil? That true? I'm using a phone or I'd quote it. Somethin about the metals in it being more like oil in the 80s.

                      So, I used to use shell rotella and that royal brand oil in my 07 shadow, but what's a decent oil for this bike now? 82 Suzuki gs1100gl?

                      PO used castrol 20-50 I believe.

                      Comment


                        #86
                        Rotella in every bike and every car I own, it is good stuff.

                        Your 10-40 car oil will be fine if it doesn't have the energy conserving label on the jug.

                        That stuff makes the clutch slip.


                        Life is too short to ride an L.

                        Comment


                          #87
                          10-40, alright. What if I told you I lived in SC, and it is about to be summer, when temperatures are usually ~95 F and humidity is really high as well. I know ambient temperature can help determined which grade of oil to use. I used to use 10-30 in winter and 10-40 in summer, or maybe the other way around hehe. Do you know which is more suited to high temp?

                          and what about this:
                          8) Using the wrong oil and/or gasoline. Auto oils have less zinc and phosphorus (high pressure additives) than they used to since the EPA has mandated reductions to protect catalytic converters. Motorcycle oils are fine but expensive, and even motorcycle oil has reduced additives these days. Diesel engine oil is cheap and contains lots of high pressure additives appropriate for our engines. Shell Rotella oil is even certified for use with wet clutches if that makes you more comfortable, although just about any diesel oil is fine. As for fuel, Suzuki calls for use of Regular gas. Using Premium provides no positive benefits for your bike and is more expensive.
                          should I use shell rotella diesel then?

                          Comment


                            #88
                            Many prefer Rotella T 15W - 40. Heavy enough for warm weather, light enough for cold, at least where you live. Diesel compatible, no Energy Saving stuff, high shear strength (for the tranny gears). Dino oil, so not as expensive as synthetics.

                            Comment


                              #89
                              20-50 might be better in the hot weather, but 10-40 is good enough. Two valve GSes don't have lubrication problems with any weight of oil, unless there is a problem. (See Spyug)

                              I ran the **** out of my 550 in SC, all of my friends had bigger bikes, it was summer some of the time, and I used 10-40 because I didn't know jack about oil back then. Years later at 120,000 miles we rebuilt the top end because it leaked so bad, but all of the mechanical parts were still within service limits.

                              Car oil now days is missing some of the special ingredients that Rotella or motorcycle oils have, but it probably won't hurt for one oil change, especially if you don't leave it in there forever.


                              Life is too short to ride an L.

                              Comment


                                #90
                                I'm definitely guilty of all the original 10 and subsequent.

                                Sorry

                                I might be on the tail end of this one, but if I could add one:

                                Thinking you know how an engine & electrical system works when you don't.

                                I am definitely guilty but glad to learn!

                                I apologize for my newbfulness!

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