Top 10 Newbie Mistakes

Is it ok to use synthetic blends in these engines? I am trying to find a gOod oil to use in my 82 1100gl, and I figure that an older engine like that probably wasn't built for a fully synthetic blend nor was the clutch. Although I am probably mistaken, that depends on when synthetic became prevalent. I am trying to use the search engine to find a discussion of oils, but not much luck so far.

-Manual (clymer) says 10-40 rated SE. Does SE mean synthetic?
-this thread says to use diesel engine oil? That true? I'm using a phone or I'd quote it. Somethin about the metals in it being more like oil in the 80s.

So, I used to use shell rotella and that royal brand oil in my 07 shadow, but what's a decent oil for this bike now? 82 Suzuki gs1100gl?

PO used castrol 20-50 I believe.

Don't yell at me. I used Valvoline 10W-40 for cars. And I will be going to 10W-40 Spectro Golden4 after heavy research.

Welcome

Great to have you aboard there a lot of GREAT people to meet and help you with anything. Stay in touch. WELCOME, WELCOME, WELCOME.

I am new myself

is jetting always needed when you change to aftermarket pipes

Thinking of getting a 4 to1 pipe.

[cowboyup3371]

Of course Flash, we could sure use a post about yourself and your bike now....



HINT HINT

I may be a noob but this thread makes me realize just how much of a noob! So far on the main list I am going to have to adjust the valves, clean/replace brake system, inspect/reinforce charging system wiring, test the stator regulator and rectifier, replace the fuel petcock, change the oil (again with the right kind), and replace the front tire/valve stem. And if I get bored the intake boots n stuff since it doesn't act like it has an air leak right now.

Very helpful thread and the only one deserving of my first post.

Great to have you, welcome aboard.

What kind of 'wrong' oil did you use?

I may be a noob but this thread makes me realize just how much of a noob! So far on the main list I am going to have to adjust the valves, clean/replace brake system, inspect/reinforce charging system wiring, test the stator regulator and rectifier, replace the fuel petcock, change the oil (again with the right kind), and replace the front tire/valve stem. And if I get bored the intake boots n stuff since it doesn't act like it has an air leak right now.

Very helpful thread and the only one deserving of my first post.

Anyone recall a MAP sensor which outputs voltage/resistance rather than frequency? If so, a MAP sensor from an automotive Pick-a-Part might be a useful tool for someone who does not own a purpose built sync tool..

I'll try to remember to ask some of my old tool customers, unless someone has the answer.

[Dogma]

Perhaps he means buying one instead of building one. Still an arguable point, I guess, but I can at least see the point of view.

n) Buying a $100 carb sync tool.

A good carb sync tool is essential for these bikes.

n) Buying a $100 carb sync tool.

n2) Being a senior member who disrespects "newbs". All of us are GS riders/wrenchers. Most all seniors on this site are amazing and willing to help. Contrary to somebody's thoughts on 11/06/11, the seniors on this site are more willing and helpful than the menial "troubleshooting chapter" of my Clymer.

Try to remove the no 3 header and drop a bolt into the engine, don't ask.

[pete]

Nice one!

To check oil...

1) Engine cold
2) Bike on center stand (although for you hot rodders that take yours off, keep the bike level)
3) Start engine and run for a couple min. then shut down
4) Wait about 1-2 min
5) Check oil level and adjust as necessary

If you leave your petcock on Prime, or if your petcock has failed, the crankcase can/will fill with gas thus showing the "oil" level to be overfilled. This is not actually "oil" but rather oil/gas mix. Not good.

And if it's a 450 (not sure if other models are applicable), *don't* screw the dipstick in to check, just sit it on top of the threads to read the level...

[Nessism]

14), or 8b) Checking the oil level with the bike on the side stand, deciding it is drastically low, and then proceeding to drastically overfill, till the level 'looks right' (with the bike still on the side stand). Oil level must be checked with the bike perpendicular to the ground!!

Nice one!

To check oil...

1) Engine cold
2) Bike on center stand (although for you hot rodders that take yours off, keep the bike level)
3) Start engine and run for a couple min. then shut down
4) Wait about 1-2 min
5) Check oil level and adjust as necessary

If you leave your petcock on Prime, or if your petcock has failed, the crankcase can/will fill with gas thus showing the "oil" level to be overfilled. This is not actually "oil" but rather oil/gas mix. Not good.

[Mysuzyq]

14), or 8b) Checking the oil level with the bike on the side stand, deciding it is drastically low, and then proceeding to drastically overfill, till the level 'looks right' (with the bike still on the side stand). Oil level must be checked with the bike perpendicular to the ground!!