Changed handlebars, now I have cable problems...

[pudds]

Hi guys,

I changed out the bars on my GS650L yesterday, from the stock L bars to BikeMaster "Euro" bars...much lower than the stock, in other words.

Unfortunately, I think I may need some new cables. The throttle cable loops way out from the bars and unless I position it carefully with my hand, the bike revs up quite high. Any attempt to pull it back and possibly secure it to the handlebars results in it reving up VERY high. Additionally, the clutch and choke cables are also quite tight.

Can anyone who's done a similar change over give me some guidance here (the Euro bars are similar in style to Daytona bars)? Are there any adjustments I can do to improve things, or am I looking at new cables? If I'm looking at new cables, what do I need? I understand the stock "G" bars are quite a bit further forward than the "L" style ones, could I get away with ordering a set of OEM cables for a G model 650?

Thanks in advance guys.

[Rauzer]

I guess see if you can find the length of the cable from a G model and compare to yours. I'll be in the same boat when I finish mine I guess.

[ChicagoBob]

You can try rerouting the cables, throttle around to the left side of the steering head, threaded through the frame to the carbs, and clutch around the right side. This worked for me with clip-ons on a 550, with the stock cables.

[Truth]

I re-routed mine for superbike bars, but from what I hear the Katana cables are pretty close to the right length.

[pudds]

You can try rerouting the cables, throttle around to the left side of the steering head, threaded through the frame to the carbs, and clutch around the right side. This worked for me with clip-ons on a 550, with the stock cables.

That's a great idea, I'll give that a try, thanks.

[Tim Tom]

I also re-rerouted my cables. Although you may need to remove the tank and loosen the cables from where they are tied on the frame. Re-route so you have smooth operational, and then re-tie them.
If you want shorter cables, try ordering look at the lengths of a 650 katana. I believe these are shorter, even than the G cables.
Also you can try using some cable lube on the tight clutch and choke.

[Nessism]

This is a common topic with lots of info in the archives...

Yes, as TT states, 1983 650 Katana cables are shorter since that model had low bars. Any OE part source should be able to get them for you.

[pudds]

This is a common topic with lots of info in the archives...

Yes, as TT states, 1983 650 Katana cables are shorter since that model had low bars. Any OE part source should be able to get them for you.

Ya, after I posted this I had the brainstorm to search for "throttle cable" instead of "handlebars".....the latter didn't get me far, but there was good info in the former.

The 83 Katana has the same connector on the ends, I assume? I'll probably go this route if I can't get the previous option working, thanks.

[pudds]

Thought I'd follow up on this, in case anyone else ever stumbles across this thread.

I was able to get my throttle situation sorted out by routing the cable around the other side of the steering head, as suggested in this thread. I simply disconnected the cable from the throttle assembly, fished it back through the steering head to the gas tank, then around the other side. With the cable in its stock position, the curve was too extreme. From the left side, the curve is gradual, approximately the same angle as stock, and works perfectly.

Additionally, I re-routed the clutch and choke cables. They aren't long enough to be run around the other side of the steering head, but I was able to remove them from the ring attaching them to the frame and route the out a little further beside the head lamp.

Everything works great now, thanks for all the help guys

[BassCliff]

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[Wombshaker]

I'm about to do the exact same thing with the exact same bars.
What did you do to make it work? Re-rout? New cables? Different bars?
Thanks man