Straight 50 weight oil

[7981GS]

Just to clarify some of the incorrect information that has been spread about what a terrible idea it is to add one quart
of straight 50W to 3 quarts of 20W-50 at over 85 degrees...
Also notice what is says about which fuel OCTANE to use!
From the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL:





Daniel

[Steve]

...
Also notice what is says about which fuel OCTANE to use!
From the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL:

This would also be a good time to point out that octane is measured differently in different parts of the world. There are two basic methods: Research and Motor. I don't remember which one is a higher number, but here in the USA, we use an average of the two numbers (R+M)/2.

[Nessism]

Just to clarify some of the incorrect information that has been spread about what a terrible idea it is to add one quart
of straight 50W to 3 quarts of 20W-50 at over 85 degrees...
Also notice what is says about which fuel OCTANE to use!
From the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL:


Daniel

So again, there is no 50W oil. SAE 50 yes, but no 50W.

As far as adding a quart of 50 to 20W-50 for temps above 85* F, I don't see a lot of harm there, although I also don't see any benefit either.

[TPL]

You guys are funny, another stinking war in the world over oil.. People love to fight over oil...

[Nessism]

You guys are funny, another stinking war in the world over oil.. People love to fight over oil...

I love oil threads!!!

I think the main problem with oil threads is some people think they know what they are talking about but don't. In other words, people post BAD technical information and state it as fact, and then others (like me) come along and contradict the post (sometimes with more bad information). Funny thing, go to the Bob IS The Oil Guy forum and there are very few arguments. Those guys know what they are talking about and don't post BS.

[TPL]

I love oil threads!!!

I think the main problem with oil threads is some people think they know what they are talking about but don't. In other words, people post BAD technical information and state it as fact, and then others (like me) come along and contradict the post (sometimes with more bad information). Funny thing, go to the Bob IS The Oil Guy forum and there are very few arguments. Those guys know what they are talking about and don't post BS.

If it's slick and clean it will do the trick it seems,

Every 1500 miles Rotella T 15-40 year round, in the summer I put one pint of STP oil treatment (blue bottle) in with the T, My 82 KZ1100 loved the stuff and I'm sure the GS will thank me as well, haha

Cheaper than the synthetics and will protect to 1500 miles

[7981GS]

These guys probably don't know what they are doing and should rely
on Bob the oil guy or some members of this forum to set them straight!:

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/VR-1_Racing_Motor_Oil.pdf

"Much less zinc and additives than multi-weight oils..."


Daniel

[Nessism]

These guys probably don't know what they are doing and should rely
on Bob the oil guy or some members of this forum to set them straight!:

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/VR-1_Racing_Motor_Oil.pdf

"Much less zinc and additives than multi-weight oils..."


Daniel

What are you referring to?

[7981GS]

Straight weight oils have less additives in them which some people think is better under some situations. A number of years ago this may have had some value but that's pretty questionable these days for a road going vehicle.

No idea at all...

Daniel

[Nessism]

No idea at all...

Daniel

Yet another person that doesn't know about oil.

To make a multi-weight oil the oil companies start with a low viscosity straight weight oil such as 10W. 10W flows well at low temperatures but gets very thin at higher temperatures - not much of a market for 10W-10 oil. To make a multi-weight oil special long chain polymer additives called viscosity index improvers are added to the oil so it will not thin so much at normal sump temperatures. In the end the 10W oil becomes 10W-XX, depending on how much of these additives are added.

These polymer additives are good for improving the viscosity at high temperatures but they can leave deposits behind on things like the rings which run very hot. Back in the GS era Yamaha sold a 20W-40 oil because they were trying to mimimize these additives and the build up they left behind.

Diesel oil is typically 15W-40 but the synthetic is 5W-40 so they have much more of these additives. I'm not an expert and can't say if these additives are something to be concern with or not, and I can't say if these polymer additives have changed over the years to lessen the negative impact. I just know that some engine people are concern about this situation thus my comment about additives.

[7981GS]

"Yet another person that doesn't know about oil."


Example directly below ... V V V

So again, there is no 10W oil. SAE 10 yes, but no 10W.

BTW, there most CERTAINLY IS a 50W motor oil.
Some people know absolutely NOTHING about oil and should stick to using Quaker State.


Daniel

[850 Combat]

In the 70's there was a debate about the meris of straight weight 50 vs 20 50 multigrade


In the Norton riding community. I was with straight 50 until I mought a new Commando that recommended 20-50.

I'll tell you, it is a bitch to kick start a magneto fired Atlas with straight 50 in the oil tank, even if you are a kid who can leg press 800 pounds.

I intend to ride to Phoenix Thursday on my 1000G Thursday. 10-40 will be fine. Suzuki knew about Arizona in 1981 I'm sure. The USA headquarters were in La Mirada after all.

[tkent02]

I intend to ride to Phoenix Thursday on my 1000G Thursday. 10-40 will be fine. Suzuki knew about Arizona in 1981 I'm sure. The USA headquarters were in La Mirada after all.

That's how I see it. 10-40 was fine even in hot places thirty year go, oil is much better now. It will be fine. We don't need no stinkin oil coolers either.

[TPL]

Just a note about mobile 1 oil that may or may not mean a whole lot to this thread. I have a 1998 toyota 4 runner, 4 cylinder engine, I have had it since 40k miles, use it for work, 25-30k miles a year. I only change the oil every 10-12k miles, the truck has 200k miles and the motor runs as quite as can be, runs like new.

[tkent02]

Just a note about mobile 1 oil that may or may not mean a whole lot to this thread. I have a 1998 toyota 4 runner, 4 cylinder engine, I have had it since 40k miles, use it for work, 25-30k miles a year. I only change the oil every 10-12k miles, the truck has 200k miles and the motor runs as quite as can be, runs like new.

It's a Toyota, that's kinda how they are.