oil in valve shim area?

[chuck hahn]

The only one thats any good is the #1 intake..all others need to be brought to spec.

As for the rings. If you have it apart and are gonna do all the work to be sure the seats are cut, valves lapped, new valve stem seals etc etc...then whu ise the old rings? Its afew bucks more and youll know 100% that EVERYTHING in the engine is new and trouble free for the next 70,000 miles or so. Thats if you do regular oil and filter changes AND check the valves at the required intervals.

As for new shims...get the sizes you need for each valve recorded and get a PM off to Ray ( Ghostgs1 I think ) and tell him what you need. What you do is get the ones from him at the Shim Club, then once your old ones are out you mail him the take offs.

If the valves give ANY resistance sliding thru the valve guides, DO NOT force them. Just hold them up from the bottom and take a small file and go around the stems to smooth off any worn edges. Forcing them scars the insides of the guides or could actually break them..not good.

[Steve]

Sound about right anyone?

May I humbly suggest that you enter your findings into the spreadsheet that I sent you last week?

Plug in the numbers, it will tell you what you probably need. Since they are all on the loose side, it will be rather accurate.

.

[chuck hahn]

And get a set of metric or the combo set of feeler guages so you can have all the ones needed to accurately read the gaps.

[Steve]

And get a set of metric or the combo set of feeler guages so you can have all the ones needed to accurately read the gaps.

Metric would be nice, but the only "combo" ones I have seen are actually INCH feelers with metric approximations on them, so they won't be any more (or less) accurate than what he is using now.

And, ... my spreadsheet doesn't care which one he uses, it does all the conversion for you.

.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Just so you know, there's nothing wrong with valve clearances at 0.10mm on your bike. I always run on the loose end of spec, and a little over. I would not run them any looser than .10mm. Be accurate with your measurements. As Mr. chuck hahn suggests, get yourself a good metric set of feeler gauges. They usually start at .04mm and go up to .10mm in increments of .01mm. It's also handy to have a digital caliper to measure the shims themselves. They are not always exactly the size they are labeled. You can use those odd sizes to fine tune your clearances.

You've probably seen this: Valve Adjustments (8 Valve)

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[rippledub]

AARGh, I just somehow deleted a long response to you all!

Anyway, just a bunch of "thank you's", and "you guys are great", kind of stuff. I'm sure you don't want to hear any of that any way. Well, maybe I will try to recreate it later.

I get the idea people around here like pix, so here's a couple for you . . . PO must have had a good sense of humor. I like how the "total amount" is blank . . . just like the final bill on this project of mine! lol

[chuck hahn]

Its just a dust seal..if there is oil in the timing well, you have a leaky crank seal. Any thickish cardboard will work as a quasa OEM replacement.

[chuck hahn]

Steve..i have 2 set from Auto Zone that have BOTH SAE and METRIC and they are all seperate of each other (as in there are just SAE guages and there are just metrics )..Its nice to have the combo pack all in one set for both applications.

Paid something like 8 bucks for the set.

[MAJikMARCer]

A lot of people here do not like that tool! Makes me want to try the Zip Tie method, especially as I have not bought the Suzuki tool yet.

Yea, I bought the tool and it's a bit of a pain to work with. Sometimes it seems to work easily and it's great. nice and fast. Other shims it felt like it took 10 minutes (or more!) to get it to grab properly.

[chuck hahn]

Read my post about holding the tool on top of the bucket with a screw driver while depressing it.

[Toasty]

What's real fun is when the tool slips, and the shim gets slapped back down, flinging oil in your eye. Yeah!

Hahaha, so true. I swear that stream of oil is heat seeking, it always hits you in the eye.

[chuck hahn]

Or on your llips and mouth..then its spit and wipe and tatse it for an hour!!!!!

[Steve]

Steve..i have 2 set from Auto Zone that have BOTH SAE and METRIC and they are all seperate of each other (as in there are just SAE guages and there are just metrics )..Its nice to have the combo pack all in one set for both applications.

Paid something like 8 bucks for the set.

I have not looked at the local Auto Zone for metric feelers lately. The last time I looked, all they had was the usual set that had both sets of markings on the same blade. THOSE are made to inch standard and have metric approximations on them. I do not recall ever seeing metric feelers with inch approximations on them.

My personal philosophy is that the actual clearance is not really all that critical.
What is critical is whether it is between the minimum and maximum values (or just a bit over the maximum). In other words, it does not matter to me whether the clearance is .06mm or .07mm, they are both good. I still use INCH feelers. The minimum clearance is 0.03mm (about .0012"), my smallest feeler is .0015". If that does not fit, the shim gets changed. The maximum clearance is 0.08mm (about .0031"), so if my .003" feeler is really loose, I will make sure the .004" (.101mm) will not fit.

It's all the same process, just using different numbers, AND YOU GET THE SAME RESULTS.

.