Few questions about chaning fork seals.

[xxBenJamminxx]

I have searched for this and haven't found a definitive answer so would like some clarification. On top of my bike (82 GS550L) there is just a valve stem end for adding air but no noticeable nut in order to remove the top cap from the forks.

Here is what I am talking about-



Just want to know that I have the right tool for the job to remove the top here in order to get out the spring, old oil, and etc.... I have looked through the service manual but all it shoes is a different style top that has 2 flat sides that a wrench could be used to remove it.

Also I know its a big debate on whether to use actual fork oil or a motor oil/atf mix. Im not close to many bike dealers and was planning on using the atf mix unless others have found actual problems using this combo rather then the designated oil.

Finally my last question and think its a dumb one but here it goes. When I ordered my replacement seal from our local Honda shop they said I would need to order 2 packages (one for each side). But when I got them there was 2 seals per package and the parts guy said there was an "upper" and "lower" seal. I have looked through many of manuals for this bike and other parts breakdown pages and can only see one set of seals, (one per fork). Am I wrong or is the know it all parts guy off his rocker on this one?

As always thanks in advance, Ben

[Agemax]

ok,,,,,,,, if you push the top of the fork down, the bit with the valve in you will see a metal spring ring in a groove in the fork leg. you need to pop this ring out and the bit with the valve in will pop out. be very carefull as it will come out with some force......

do not use motor oil in the forks. i believe some do use ATF but proper fork oil is recommended.

as far as the seals go, yes you need one set per side. each set includes one oil seal and a dust seal, which slides on over the top of the fork seal once it is all installed. they both do exactly what they say on the tin........

the oil seal keeps the oil in, and the dust seal prevents dust and crud from getting on the fork leg and damaging the seal.

hope this helps...

[xxBenJamminxx]

Ill post a pic later of the seals. They do not contain dust seals, just 2 fork seals the sameas one another n both packages are the same.

[Agemax]

Ill post a pic later of the seals. They do not contain dust seals, just 2 fork seals the sameas one another n both packages are the same.

ok, i may be wrong on that one then, USUALLY they come singly in a pack to do one fork per pack. are they genuine Suzuki parts or aftermarket parts?
if they are aftermarket then it may well contain 2 seals only, 1 for each leg.

[xxBenJamminxx]

Yes they are aftermarket.

Quick while I'm at menards how long does the 1.5" pvc have to be to reinstall the new seals and drive them down?

[Agemax]

Yes they are aftermarket.

Quick while I'm at menards how long does the 1.5" pvc have to be to reinstall the new seals and drive them down?

well that answers the question about the seals.

get a few feet of pvc pipe and you will have plenty.....

[Starion007]

I suggest you inspect the slider bushings while its apart. One at the bottom of the fork tube and one in the top of the slider tube. There bronze looking, a good idea while its apart.
Mark

[xxBenJamminxx]

Thanks and I plan on inspecting everything right away, just as soon as I figure out how to remove that top cap. If I turn on the air valve the entire piece inside spins but doesn't seem to back out at all. Also I am not seeing.the spring that was mentioned earlier. Do have to push that top valve down into the upper for tube to access it? Is that way
hat was meant?

Thanks for helping through these dumb first timer questions too btw... Ben

[GateKeeper]

yes,,,,push that cap down, it will go down ever so slightly, and there should be a clip, almost a like a thin piece of wire, you have to take that out, using a small screwdriver, then it will release the rest of it and the big spring and all else will come out.

take a socket that will just fit over the air valve, and a bit smaller in diameter than the shock of course, use that to push down, you will need the forks in a vise, and while pushing down, poke the circlip out with a screwdriver...

good luck

[GreatDane]

If you need pictures of anything let me know. I have one fork apart in the garage waiting for a new seal. Willing to take a picture of whatever you need.

Socket over the schrader valve, push down and use a pick or small screwdriver to work the circlip out. Once you do it it will become pretty self explanatory.

[PPPPPP42]

Perhaps the 550 is totally different, but an exact quote from the actual Suzuki service manual for the GS450 reads:

FRONT FORK OIL
Mixture of SAE 10W/30 motor oil and SAE 5W/20 motor oil, the ratio being 50-to-50 percent.

Better or worse quality fluid is irrelevant if its not the right viscosity to move through the valving at the intended rates. ATF is super thin compared to motor oil, fork oil is usually similar to 5w hydraulic fluid as I recall though I think other weights are available.
As I recall my CX500 recommended ATF but that was a different bike with different valving. New bikes use totally different stuff. There is no "correct" answer for all bikes.

[xxBenJamminxx]

Thanks everyone for the help and pointers. Once I seen what was meant by the spring holding it in I was like "DUH" that is simple.

Got them out and drained a lot of yucky grayish oil that was obviously old and needed to be changed. Once I broke the bottom allan bolt free and removed that I used the upper fork like a slide hammer which I learned from another post and they popped right out. Just took my time and cleaned them all out with carb cleaner and then blew them out with compressed air til dry. Re-assembled everything, added oil, put on tops, and remounted them on the bike. Now that I know how it goes together it would take my a 1/4 of the time to do it next time. Figured I would just try new oil, and seals before cutting the springs and making spacers to see how it worked and it feels so much stiffer and can tell it will ride way better. I put about 8.5psi in each side according to my digital air gauge and will adjust from there if needed.

Just got to take care of the rear shocks that are shot and bouncy and it will be riding like a dream!

Once again thank you to everyone here. This bike wouldnt be on the road let alone running, riding, or looking nearly as nice as it does without this site and all of you!