Sheared bolts in GS1000 cylinder head

[mikerophone]

Here is my trick, I drill all the way through the fastener with a 3/32 bit. This allows the use of penetrant with its small straw to get to the other side of the fastener. I then tap it multiple times, let it sit for a day or so and it usually spins out pretty easily with an easy-out or L/H drill bit.

Yes I also hate easy-outs and they are the extreme last resort, I have used them for the past 25 years in the aircraft maintenance industry and have only ever broken one off in a bolt. I know their limits and that is the trick with using them.

cheers,
Daryl

Your technique works great, unless it's a blind hole...Knowing an EZ outs limits is the key and like Brian mentions about what he learned on a machinist forum, they shouldn't be used for seized fasteners, just broken ones. I've learned that the hard way and after that I tried tricks like where you weld a washer on and then weld a bolt onto it and turn that out. With this method, you get blowerbike's recommendation too.

[Fjbj40]

Your technique works great, unless it's a blind hole...Knowing an EZ outs limits is the key and like Brian mentions about what he learned on a machinist forum, they shouldn't be used for seized fasteners, just broken ones. I've learned that the hard way and after that I tried tricks like where you weld a washer on and then weld a bolt onto it and turn that out. With this method, you get blowerbike's recommendation too.

It works just fine if it is a blind hole. You just have to make sure you only drill through the bolt and not into the part and that is a straight forward procedure.

There are many different techniques for removing broken fasteners. Some are usually a bigger challenge, the trick is taking your time and thinking it through. Being in a hurry can often cause more grief. Slow down, access and evaluate the path for rectification will usually ensure a positive result. Asking questions if you have never done it is the first step, as the OP is doing.

[mikerophone]

It works just fine if it is a blind hole. You just have to make sure you only drill through the bolt and not into the part and that is a straight forward procedure.

I should have worded my post better, it was not my intention to offend and hopefully I didn't. I've never attempted to drill through a broken bolt in a blind hole as I'm worried that I won't feel the bit break through. What's your method/tip there? Pretty easy to feel it change based on the metal type differences?

1978, any luck with your 4 bolts? If there are still threads adequately exposed, heat, PB Blaster, more heat, tap tap tap with hammer, maybe wait a day, apply more heat/more PB , tap tap and then use vise grips or notch the bolt with a dremel and tackle that way. Personally I have switched to a 50/50 mix of good acetone and ATF.over PB Blaster. It works great.

[Fjbj40]

I should have worded my post better, it was not my intention to offend and hopefully I didn't. I've never attempted to drill through a broken bolt in a blind hole as I'm worried that I won't feel the bit break through. What's your method/tip there? Pretty easy to feel it change based on the metal type differences?

1978, any luck with your 4 bolts? If there are still threads adequately exposed, heat, PB Blaster, more heat, tap tap tap with hammer, maybe wait a day, apply more heat/more PB , tap tap and then use vise grips or notch the bolt with a dremel and tackle that way. Personally I have switched to a 50/50 mix of good acetone and ATF.over PB Blaster. It works great.

Often there is another hole that has not got a broken fastener in it so I measure the hole depth and use it as a reference.
If not then a slow feed with multiple removal and inspections and a "feel" for the "break-through" is required. Often there is a void in a blind hole (bolt usually does not bottom out) so you can feel the break through. Once again this comes from experience, something I gained from living on the corrosive East Coast of Canada :-).

No offense taken, it's all good. Hopefully someone learns from our ramblings

[mikerophone]

Often there is another hole that has not got a broken fastener in it so I measure the hole depth and use it as a reference.
If not then a slow feed with multiple removal and inspections and a "feel" for the "break-through" is required. Often there is a void in a blind hole (bolt usually does not bottom out) so you can feel the break through. Once again this comes from experience, something I gained from living on the corrosive East Coast of Canada :-).

No offense taken, it's all good. Hopefully someone learns from our ramblings

I'm learning, hopefully the OP comes back at some point and does as well.

I'm glad there was no offense taken...That's a good point, measure another hole and use the electrical tape over the bit at the proper depth trick. Otherwise feel for the breakthrough. I'm sure I'll get the chance to try it at some point.

Is your user name a mixture of your name and a Toyota Landcruiser by chance?

[Fjbj40]

I'm learning, hopefully the OP comes back at some point and does as well.

I'm glad there was no offense taken...That's a good point, measure another hole and use the electrical tape over the bit at the proper depth trick. Otherwise feel for the breakthrough. I'm sure I'll get the chance to try it at some point.

Is your user name a mixture of your name and a Toyota Landcruiser by chance?

My username, yes, it is/was my other hobby. Land Cruiser restorations and modifications. FJ40 to BJ40 conversions, played with those for about 17 years, came back to bikes a few years ago. Did 2 GS1000's prior to my current 1000.

You can see my last 40 in this post http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...-gs1000e/page7

cheers,
Daryl

[mikerophone]

Nice! I get to replace the 3.0 in my 95 4runner this spring, it finally blew the head gasket...wish there was a diesel version available in the states. I think I will go with the 3.4l conversion if I can find one for ~$1500.

[Steve]

Might still polish it but at least I can try to extract the bolt remains OFF the bike ...

Polished breather covers are pointless.

Pretty, but pointless.



.

[mikerophone]

Polished breather covers are pointless.

Pretty, but pointless.

Breather cover, yes, but the valve cover itself - I have a theory that they stay cooler, and are easier to clean, being less porous when polished.

I might be wrong, and it's not the hottest part of the engine, but the paint on the cover likely holds heat in, and the paint has microscopic holes that oil, mixed with dirt and grease will cling to, whereas a pointless, but pretty polished cover, will let more heat out and stay cleaner at the same time, and doubles as a built in coil connection verifier, aka a mirror.

[Grimly]

I should have worded my post better, it was not my intention to offend and hopefully I didn't. I've never attempted to drill through a broken bolt in a blind hole as I'm worried that I won't feel the bit break through. What's your method/tip there? Pretty easy to feel it change based on the metal type differences?

90% of the holes I drill in steel, I can hear the tone of the motor change as it approaches breakthrough and the drill load lessens. Right after that is when to ease off slightly and be ready. Of course, some drills and bits don't give this warning, so they can catch you out.

[1978]

1978, any luck with your 4 bolts? If there are still threads adequately exposed, heat, PB Blaster, more heat, tap tap tap with hammer, maybe wait a day, apply more heat/more PB , tap tap and then use vise grips or notch the bolt with a dremel and tackle that way. Personally I have switched to a 50/50 mix of good acetone and ATF.over PB Blaster. It works great.

Hah, honestly I haven't tried yet. Just messing around with the carbs right now because I'm a bit nervous and just waiting for all the responses to roll in on this thread before I attempt. I've got a set of left hand bits and the EZ outs as well now.

[mikerophone]

Left handed bits all the way. EZ outs are too risky. Just my $.02 but I've had too many break on me. Whereas if you drill through, starting small in the center (use a punch if you can to get perfectly centered) and heating, lubing and going up a bit size each time, eventually it may just turn out when you're drilling.

[cl4yd0h]

Whatever you do, do NOT try EZ-outs. They do NOT work on stuck bolts. They WILL break, and then you're really floating down fecal creek with no means of propulsion

I laughed so hard at this... Thank you..

Ez outs are not very good at removing bolts but work surprisingly well for a bout of swearing and feeling sorry for yourself..

[mikerophone]

Me too!

Stripped bolts that you can't cut a notch or get vise grips on yes, frozen bolts that result in sheared heads...nope.

[Guest]

If you have access to a tig welder you can build up the stuck bolt until you can weld a nut on it. The heat and the electric current help to free up the corrosion.