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    #16
    Originally posted by SocialAnomaly99 View Post
    Does your starter clutch still grab?
    Why wouldn't it?

    .
    sigpic
    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
    Family Portrait
    Siblings and Spouses
    Mom's first ride
    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
    (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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      #17
      Odd question, but the 550s don't often have starter clutch problems. Those are for the big bikes.


      Life is too short to ride an L.

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
        Odd question, but the 550s don't often have starter clutch problems. Those are for the big bikes.
        I've heard that the larger bikes develop starter clutch slippage issues when using synthetic.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by SocialAnomaly99 View Post
          I've heard that the larger bikes develop starter clutch slippage issues when using synthetic.
          Never heard that one before. Some people think synthetic oil is more "slippery", but that's just urban legend.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by SocialAnomaly99 View Post
            I've heard that the larger bikes develop starter clutch slippage issues when using synthetic.
            Regular clutch, not starter clutch. And they don't slip anyway.


            Life is too short to ride an L.

            Comment


              #21
              If you have a Seep, switch to synthetic and you'll have a Leak... In my experience with synthetic oil.
              My Motorcycles:
              22 Kawasaki Z900 RS (Candy Tone Blue)
              22 BMW K1600GT (Probably been to a town near you)
              82 1100e Drag Bike (needs race engine)
              81 1100e Street Bike (with race engine)
              79 1000e (all original)
              82 850g (all original)
              80 KZ 650F (needs restored)

              Comment


                #22
                Be careful tighten the oil drain plug, those threads in the oil pan can strip really easy.
                sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
                1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
                2015 CAN AM RTS


                Stuff I've done to my bike 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by storm 64 View Post
                  If you have a Seep, switch to synthetic and you'll have a Leak... In my experience with synthetic oil.
                  That is because the synthetic oil typically has better detergents in it, and they clean away the crud that is plugging that leak, and only allow it to seep.

                  Synthetic oil does not cause leaks.

                  Synthetic oil is not more slippery.

                  Synthetic oil CURES a lot more problems than it causes.

                  .
                  sigpic
                  mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                  hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                  #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                  #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                  Family Portrait
                  Siblings and Spouses
                  Mom's first ride
                  Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                  (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by Steve View Post
                    Synthetic oil CURES a lot more problems than it causes.

                    .
                    But if the engine is already in sad shape from decades of neglected oil changes, a whole bunch of old leaks plugged up by old baked on black sludge, there's not a whole lot synthetic oil will do for it.


                    Life is too short to ride an L.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      True, it won't cure the cause of those leaks, but it is certainly not the reason they are there.

                      .
                      sigpic
                      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                      Family Portrait
                      Siblings and Spouses
                      Mom's first ride
                      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                      Comment


                        #26
                        hm...
                        I've never heard of switching to synthetic to open up leaks. i flushed a radiator once that opened up a hellstorm of hose leaks, but those were rubber hoses.
                        this is metal, but if any gaskets begin to leak, well, then i would have needed to replace them anyway.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Suzuki (and other makes) have the charming design habit of relying on O-rings sitting in a groove and sandwiched between clamping faces. The notorious cylinder block bottom gasket leak is actually a defective old O-ring, which may have been happily doing its job for 20, 30 years, but the sudden influx of synthetics has prompted it to kick its heels up and depart this life.
                          I know, I have one just like that, and that's the reason. I don't think for a minute the synth oil caused it to shrink, but it was fine until last year, when I changed to synth full-time. Well, when I say fine, there was evidence of a tiny seep, but nothing worth bothering about. It's definitely at the stage where it will need attention soon.
                          On the other hand, the very same clean-up done by the synth oil has freed up and cleaned the ring packs very well indeed. So, it was a calculated risk, and one worth taking, as I knew from experience that O-ring would need replaced at some point.
                          Last edited by Grimly; 10-02-2015, 03:14 PM.
                          ---- Dave
                          79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
                          80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
                          79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
                          92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

                          Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

                          Comment


                            #28
                            You don't "switch to synthetic to open up leaks". Many times, when a switch is made to synthetic oil, a complaint is made that now the (bike, car, truck, whatever) now leaks oil, so the synthetic oil must have caused it.

                            What really happens is that the synthetic oil has more (or better) detergents, and they will wash away the crud that has been plugging a leak that has been there for a LONG time. The crud is so well-packed on there that it no longer leaks.

                            It's sort of like cutting yourself then scraping away the scab in a couple of days, it will start bleeding again.

                            .
                            sigpic
                            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                            Family Portrait
                            Siblings and Spouses
                            Mom's first ride
                            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                            Comment


                              #29
                              I had a leak caused by Synthetic oils on my 1985 GL1200 Goldwing.
                              When I switched to the Synthetic oil I had several new leaks where the gaskets failed sealing.
                              I found out the Synthetic oil has greater "FLOW" properties - that is it moves through better than dino oil.
                              A small seep becomes a leak when oil FLOWS through the failed gasket.
                              Really it reveals your leak as it flows enough oil to be a problem...


                              http://www.topspeedracer.com/synthet...gular-oil.html

                              "Synthetic oils", which have been around since the 1970s, have the same natural ingredients as "regular oils" but they are distilled in a chemical plant where the concept of refining goes techno-geek. Try wrapping your head around the concept of “synthesized-hydrocarbon molecular chains” and base fluids including “polyalphaolefin, synthetic esters, and alkylated aromatics.” What the heck do all these terms mean? In plain english, they are the engineered basis for the synthetic oil qualities listed below.Synthetic oils:
                              • are all season and have multi-viscosity properties, some flowing as much as seven times faster than regular oil.
                              • can stand extremes of engine temperature (some above 400°F) more efficiently.
                              • can boost horsepower more effectively than thinner regular oils.
                              • can be used for intervals as long as 25,000 miles before requiring an oil change.
                              • contain fewer contaminants like sulfur, wax, and other elements that contribute to sludge build-up.

                              Of course, synthetic oils are more expensive and there are some things they don’t do, including:
                              • eliminate the need for oil changes.
                              • or eliminate engine wear.

                              The major advantage of synthetic oils is superior lubrication that significantly reduces engine wear over the long term.

                              Just my personal experience
                              Currently in the Stable :
                              2002 Honda Goldwing GL1800 Sunburst Pearl Orange
                              1983 Suzuki GS850 GL Blue & Black

                              " I am never lost until I run out of fuel...until that moment I am EXPLORING."
                              - Carl R. Munkwitz

                              Munk's Maxim: "There is no such thing as a cheap motorcycle"

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by Wingsconsin View Post
                                ...are all season and have multi-viscosity properties, some flowing as much as seven times faster than regular oil.
                                Synthetic oil is subject to the same viscosity ratings as regular oil. It doesn't flow faster than a mineral oil of the same viscosity.

                                Synthetic oil often starts with a lower viscosity base stock than mineral oil though, so in that regards it flow better. For example, Rotella synthetic is 5W-40 and the mineral oil flavor is 15W-40. The 5W will flow faster than 15W, and that's better since it will make the oil pumps job easier and pressurize the engine faster when cold. The 5W oil will exploit oil leak paths better than 15W, so in that regards it may leak more easily. I don't fault the oil though.
                                Ed

                                To measure is to know.

                                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                                Comment

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