GS750 not faster than 80km/h, with lots of struggling

[Big T]

Jumping back a few posts, when you sprayed the pipes and said #2 is cooler, #2 is clutch side?
Clutch 1, 2,3,4 Throttle

[Drummert]

Yes, 2 is clutch side.

[Brendan W]

I took the measure for the plug leads from the leads into the coil to the end of the lead, so plug end. I already thought this would give infinite, but I saw a guy do this on a youtube video somewhere, so I figured I might as well try. So from one plug end to another plug end should work and give about 15k ohm?

I just measured the condensors by charging them with a resistance test and then switching back to dc voltage. Both seem to work... Hmm....

Static testing of cold condensors can be misleading. A fairly common failure mode is that the trouble only starts after some time running.

[Drummert]

Static testing of cold condensors can be misleading. A fairly common failure mode is that the trouble only starts after some time running.

Sounds like what is happening to my bike. Maybe i'll just order some new ones, for save measure. They're not expensive anyway. I already figured out I'll need to order the screws online anyway. I tried getting the bigger washer of another screw, but there's no way I get it past the thread. Looking at the parts list at cmsnl I see the washer are already on the screw.

Also, while im there, should I get some new points in there as well? One of the sets visibly has deposit on one side and a pit on the other. The other set looks o.k.


On a sidenote: I tried testing the resistance between the spark plug leads, and the connector from my meter broke of inside the terminal (one of these plastic, non-fixable types, yeey for cheap meters..).

[Brendan W]

Sounds like what is happening to my bike. Maybe i'll just order some new ones, for save measure. They're not expensive anyway. I already figured out I'll need to order the screws online anyway. I tried getting the bigger washer of another screw, but there's no way I get it past the thread. Looking at the parts list at cmsnl I see the washer are already on the screw.

Also, while im there, should I get some new points in there as well? One of the sets visibly has deposit on one side and a pit on the other. The other set looks o.k.

On a sidenote: I tried testing the resistance between the spark plug leads, and the connector from my meter broke of inside the terminal (one of these plastic, non-fixable types, yeey for cheap meters..).

The condensor controls the arcing at the points/switch. Deposits on the points are a signal that a condensor may not be doing it's job. All points wear with time but if both are the same age and one is burning significantly more than the other, the condensor is suspect.

[Drummert]

Ok, then I'll replace the condensers as well. If necessary, I'll replace the points later on. Found a cheap new pair close to home.

[Drummert]

So I got new condensers and new points on the bike today after having a lot of struggle again with the screws (an impact driver really IS necessary whilst working on these bikes XD).
She never fired up so easily. Points 1-4 gave 3 arcs and then, no more arcing, bike running happily.

2 and 3 are firing now as well judging from the blue smoke I get XD I'll take it out for a ride tomorrow to clear things up a bit.

Now, I read somewhere that on these old machines, lots of people advance the timing more than the manual would specify, to account for wear? Is this true? I can't seem to find the damn post anymore.. Anyway, it definitely seems te be running a lot smoother keeping the timing slightly in front of the 'F' mark (meaning to the right side of it).


Anyway, thanks for the help so far guys! Working on this bike and being on this forum really taught me a lot.

[Big T]

Adjust your timing to spec- it will run even better
and check the advance
You are using a timing light?

[Drummert]

Yes I am!

I'll do that. I noticed some ticking every now and then and I'm not sure whether its timing related or a wheel bearing somewhere..