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    Loose Cam Cover Bolts

    Anybody ever had that happen to you? I noticed I was getting a burning oil smell at lights, and a big cloud when I revved the engine at lights. Hmm, not cool. I thought it was because the half moon gaskets on the head or the washers under the Phillips, (sorry, the JIS ), screws on top of the cam cover were leaking. Sorced some new ones and gasket, and when I went to take the cover off, EVERY bolt and screw was loose enough to be taken off with my fingers! One bolt wasn't even touching the cover! The gasket was literally toasted, but came off pretty much in one piece, making cleanup a breeze! I made sure when I put it together I put a LIGHT,(notice I said LIGHT, not enough to blob out), coating of RTV on the gasket surfaces and tightened the bolts down a little tighter. I guess I'm a little too cautious with tightening small bolts in aluminum, as I work on boilers with large steel bolts, usually which take a cheater bar to remove!
    Maybe trying to catch up to Rob on the Port Alice road shook the **** out of everything!
    Kevin
    E-Bay: gsmcyclenut
    "Communism doesn't work because people like to own stuff." Frank Zappa

    1978 GS750(x2 "projects"), 1983 GS1100ED (slowly becoming a parts bike), 1982 GS1100EZ,
    Now joined the 21st century, 2013 Yamaha XTZ1200 Super Tenere.

    #2
    I don't know about your bolt problem, but I'd rather have a small leak occasionally and have to tighten a few bolts once in a while than have RTV loose inside my engine, no matter how small the blobs. There are some VERY tiny oil passages inside the engine.


    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #3
      "I work on boilers with large steel bolts, usually which take a cheater bar to remove!"

      impress your co-workers by getting a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench and tighten the cam cover bolts to about 8 foot-lbs in a progressive pattern. No need for rtv -
      1981 gs650L

      "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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        #4
        8 ft lbs is too tight. Something like 65 - 75 inch pounds, or a light twist with a couple fingers on a short ratchet.


        Life is too short to ride an L.

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          #5
          The 850 manual calls for 6.5 foot lbs (78 inch lbs). I have stripped one at this torque setting. Inserting a helicoil tomorrow.

          1983 GS750ED-Horsetraded for the Ironhead
          1981 HD XLH

          Drew's 850 L Restoration

          Drew's 83 750E Project

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            #6
            I've never had that happen with the stock paper gaskets but have had it happen with the silicone gaskets but with those ones you're only suppose to tighten the bolts a tich past finger tight. Princess Auto has a great 1/4 torque wrench that I use all the time for things like that, great price too.
            Rob
            1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
            Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

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              #7
              I prefer a light twist with a couple well calibrated fingers on a short ratchet. A torque wrench is clumsy, even a small inch pound one. If the threads are damaged by some previous bonehead's hamfisted ways it's hard to feel them letting go until they are gone.

              I'd rather have to cinch them up again once or twice a year than strip one out of the head.


              Life is too short to ride an L.

              Comment


                #8
                I have always installed valve cover gaskets dry with lacquer thinner as a cleaner and wipe the rubber half moons with lacquer thinner until they are not shiny any longer and install them. No RTV or any type sealer anywhere. I have also taken a small punch and punch a few small places around the valve cover gasket area to give it something to hold onto (mostly in the centers) if I have a problem pushing them out or pulling them in. Which should not happen but does at times with older engines. Any type of sealer just gives the gasket something to slide on.
                Last edited by gs11ezrydr; 10-02-2016, 06:28 AM.
                sigpic 82 gs1100ez 1168 Wiseco,Web .348 Cams,Falicon Sprockets,Star Racing Ported Head,1mm o/s Stainless Valves,APE Springs,Bronze Guides,etc.APE Billet Tensioner,36CV Carbs,Stage 3 Dynojet,Plenum w/K&N filter,Trued,Welded,Balanced,Crank w/Katana rods & Billet left end, FBG backcut trans, VHR HD Clutch basket,APE nut,VHR High volume oil pump gears,1150 Oil cooler,V&H Megaphone header w/Competition baffle,Dyna S,Coils,Wires,etc.Other misc.mods.

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                  #9
                  Just going by what Mr. Haynes reccommends. From manual 737, "Suzuki GSX/GS1000, 1100 & 1150 4-valve Fours", on page 29, it is written in the section reguarding valve clearances, "After adjustment is complete, clean the joint face of the cylinder head and cover and place new gasket in position. A thin film of RTV sealant should be applied to both sides of the gasket to ensure an oil-tight seal."
                  From "The bible", "Suzuki GSX1100 Service Manual", part #99500-39014-01E, on page 2-6, in section reguarding valve clearances, "A thin film of SUZUKI Bond No. 1215 on both sides of the gasket will ensure an oil tight seal". I don't know what "SUZUKI Bond 1215 is, but it's probably RTV.
                  I think a lot of people are reluctant to use RTV because a lot of people don't know what "light coating" means. I've seen where people just goop the stuff on, which can cause serious problems. Seriously, if I can't see the metal underneath the the thin coating of RTV I've put on, I've put too much on.
                  Kevin
                  E-Bay: gsmcyclenut
                  "Communism doesn't work because people like to own stuff." Frank Zappa

                  1978 GS750(x2 "projects"), 1983 GS1100ED (slowly becoming a parts bike), 1982 GS1100EZ,
                  Now joined the 21st century, 2013 Yamaha XTZ1200 Super Tenere.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I coat mine with a thin layer of grease on both sides so I can get a couple of uses out of them.
                    Rob
                    1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
                    Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by mcycle-nut View Post
                      I don't know what "SUZUKI Bond 1215 is, but it's probably RTV.
                      Could be something like fuel lube.

                      Oh, and now its called EZ turn lube .

                      EZ Turn is a specialty lubricant/sealant used for fuel and oil line valves & is resistant to high temps. Especially effective where high octane fuels and aromatics are present. EZ Turn is also extremely efficient as a gasket paste & anti- seize agent. EZ Turn will not gum, crack or dry out. Each shipment is independently tested. Excellent for tapered plug valves, aircraft engine manufacturing, and marine applications.
                      82 1100 EZ (red)

                      "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I think the torque suggested has to be taken in the context of the gasket used. I reckon gaskets are different in how they react to being squeezed and in particular different materials may loose their springiness after a time clamped up. I wouldn't even be sure that an oem today was the same as 1980. Suck it and see.
                        97 R1100R
                        Previous
                        80 GS850G, 79 Z400B, 85 R100RT, 80 Z650D, 76 CB200

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